I'm seeking advice from those who may have made the same mistake. As I'm a novice maker, I've been using wood from my property as handles because it's free. I had some that had a really nice look to it and of course this stressed spot gave way to a crack/void as I shaped it that was hidden underneath. I think I read here before that sometimes glue is used to fill these voids and seal (as best as can be) the wood from the defect becoming worse over time. A quick search of CA glue and I see on Starbond's site alone 23 types of glue. I'm assuming a thicker, gel type to fill the gap then thin for the entire handle for uniformity. This is just a guess though so any and all advice is greatly appreciated.
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Recommendation? CA glue in wood handle
- Thread starter GRapp
- Start date
RayseM
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2010
- Messages
- 8,258
Most importantly, you allow your handle size billets of local wood to DRY. Cut them to rough length + a few inches and leave them aside in a dry environment for 6 months or more, aka, forget about them for a while. A dry environment can be a shoe box lined with paper between layers of wood such as a heated room. In the winter time this process can be easy, as you heat your home or shop. Humidity of summer is more problematic. A food dryer or a bucket of wood with an incandescent light bulb in the cover can work - though take care not to bake the wood. I prefer to simply leave the wood alone through the winter.
Then - after the relative moisture is mostly removed - CULL THE WOOD, i.e. toss out the crazy twisted or over cracked pieces and keep only the ones that are reasonably stable.
OH - and of course - speaking of stable - you can process your wood with STABILIZING. DIY or send it out to someone who offers this service.
From there - with your now reduced selection of wood billets Starbond's WOOD CA glue offerings are good - medium or thin would be needed most. There is a shelf life for this stuff so don't buy big bottles or too many. I use two or three times more medium than anything else. Thin is next. Thick, almost never.
Then - after the relative moisture is mostly removed - CULL THE WOOD, i.e. toss out the crazy twisted or over cracked pieces and keep only the ones that are reasonably stable.
OH - and of course - speaking of stable - you can process your wood with STABILIZING. DIY or send it out to someone who offers this service.
From there - with your now reduced selection of wood billets Starbond's WOOD CA glue offerings are good - medium or thin would be needed most. There is a shelf life for this stuff so don't buy big bottles or too many. I use two or three times more medium than anything else. Thin is next. Thick, almost never.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
Moderator
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2004
- Messages
- 37,909
As Ray said, the wood needs time to dry. It can take from 6 months to several years to dry enough for handles. Once you have cut it and made the handle, it may crack due to the stresses being released and drying still taking place. Go ahead and see if you can fix this one as below.
As for filling the cracks in a handle:
1) start with thin clear CA. It will seep deep into the wood and penetrate the pores and grain.
2) If the crack is larger you can switch to a medium, and then a thick CA resin. I recommend the colored Starbond CA glues for this. Activator is also good to use to speed setting.
3) Once you start filling the gap, let the glue sit for a few seconds and then sand with 120 grit paper. It will drive the sanding dust into the crack and fill it with what amounts to wood putty. Let cure for 5 minutes and repeat glue and sanding a few times.
4) Finish sanding up to the desired grit.
5) If all else fails, remove the bad handle and replace it ... it is just wood.
As for filling the cracks in a handle:
1) start with thin clear CA. It will seep deep into the wood and penetrate the pores and grain.
2) If the crack is larger you can switch to a medium, and then a thick CA resin. I recommend the colored Starbond CA glues for this. Activator is also good to use to speed setting.
3) Once you start filling the gap, let the glue sit for a few seconds and then sand with 120 grit paper. It will drive the sanding dust into the crack and fill it with what amounts to wood putty. Let cure for 5 minutes and repeat glue and sanding a few times.
4) Finish sanding up to the desired grit.
5) If all else fails, remove the bad handle and replace it ... it is just wood.
