Cabelas fixed blade knives

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P.B.Walsh

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Oct 24, 2010
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Hey, I am new to this forum, and this is first post. But I am trying to find a good, solid, 6"+ fixed bladed knife.

So I need ya'lls opinion on these knives:

s7_517700_034_01


Abother one that I am looking at is a full size Ka-Bar, and would luke to heat it about those as well.

Thank you in advance,
P.B.Walsh
 
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I wonder what steel old sawmill blades where made of ?

I'm sure it was good, but wonder why they don't tell the steel type in the add.


My brother mad me a knife years ago from a large bandsaw blade, but I have no idea what the steel is. High Carbon is all I know.


Sorry I don't know anything about the knives you asked about, but maybe someone will come along that does.
 
Ken44 said:
I wonder what steel old sawmill blades where made of ?
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A lot of them were L6. Takes a great edge and is tough.

Moving this over to General Knife Discussion to reach a somewhat broader segment of our membership.
 
Well, to be honest, I am doing nothing particular with the knife, I am just lioking for a knife that I dont have to baby and is well built.
 
if it's L6 as blues commented then the blade is really tuff. a good heattreat can certainly make a decent knife.
dennis
 
I wouldn't spend my money on it if for no other reason than they won't list the exact steel.It's a good possibility they don't know for sure.

For a little more money look at an ESEE or Fallkniven F1.They are totally different styles from the stag handle knife you posted but you won't have to worry about construction.Personally I would get the F1 for that size knife.

If you really like that style of Stag with brass guard get with one of the custom makers here in the makers forum.It would probably cost about double at the least but you would be getting a quality knife.

Just took a look at the video.The tangs look very small to me especially on the drawn blueprints for the CNC.Also I don't understand why the Cabelas add says old sawmill blade steel if they are CNC cut from 1095 sheets.Maby they just thought it would sound good to the target market.
 
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If you're looking for knife you don't have to baby I'd steer clear of the one you pictured.

Go for something full tang, like ESEE or Becker, or if you want to spend a little more get a Bark River. These knives all come with a spectacular warranty, but you're not likely to ever need it. They're all built to be used, and used hard.
 
R.H.Clark said:
Also I don't understand why the Cabelas add says old sawmill blade steel if they are CNC cut from 1095 sheets.Maby they just thought it would sound good to the target market.
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Cabela's said:
Blades are cut from the same kind of high-carbon steel as old circular sawmill blades, ground on a water-cooled wheel to preserve the natural tempers gained as the blades age
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It just says high carbon. Doesn't specify what kind.
Does the last bit mean the blades still have the same heat treat as the old saw?
I think the description is vague on purpose. Deliberatley deceitful if you ask me.
 
P.B.Walsh said:
Well, to be honest, I am doing nothing particular with the knife, I am just lioking for a knife that I dont have to baby and is well built.
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i'd say the tried and tested Ka-Bar USMC fits the bill perfectly then.
 
R.H.Clark said:
I wouldn't spend my money on it if for no other reason than they won't list the exact steel.It's a good possibility they don't know for sure.
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The maker's website says they use 1095, D2, and 15N20. And they list each material used by knife series. However, it isn't clear which series that Cabela's is selling. Would probably only take an e-mail to find out.

I think they look nice, and I would probably buy one based on what I've learned today. Nice materials, reasonable prices, attractive designs, and made in the USA. $80 for one of these; as discussed in another topic you can't even get a plastic Benchmade knife today for eighty dollars.

But... if you're looking for a hard use knife, stag or antler just isn't going to hold up like modern plastics and synthetics. You won't have to "baby" it, but you won't be able to beat on it either. ;)

If you do pick up one of these, I'd love to read a review after you've had time to use it. :thumbup:
 
Exactly,
They are cut from the same "KIND" of steel as old saw mill blades. Then ground on a water-cooled wheel to preserve the natural tempers gained as the, presumed, old sawmill blade gained as it aged.

I seriously doubt they use old saw mill blades at all so I see no reason to preserve the temper that a blade gained as it aged.

It all sounds like a lot of bull to me written to conjure up the idea of a lone blacksmith building knives from old sawmill blades by grinding them out on an old hand powered stone wheel.

Bob W
you made a good point.I actually liked the video and it is probably a fairly nice knife for the price.It was the Cabelas marketing hype about old sawmill blades that turned me off.
 
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R.H.Clark said:
Exactly,
They are cut from the same "KIND" of steel as old saw mill blades. Then ground on a water-cooled wheel to preserve the natural tempers gained as the, presumed, old sawmill blade gained as it aged.

I seriously doubt they use old saw mill blades at all so I see no reason to preserve the temper that a blade gained as it aged.

It all sounds like a lot of bull to me written to conjure up the idea of a lone blacksmith building knives from old sawmill blades by grinding them out on an old hand powered stone wheel.
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itz kinda funny,it might a tough knife,can't say...
 
Thank you for all of your replies, I guess I sgould just go with the Ka-Bar, my first choice anyways. I cannot really spend over $100, so this will be a good choice.

Thanks again,
P.B.Walsh
 
P.B.Walsh said:
Thank you for all of your replies, I guess I sgould just go with the Ka-Bar, my first choice anyways. I cannot really spend over $100, so this will be a good choice.

Thanks again,
P.B.Walsh
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You can get the ESEE RC 6 for $106 which is a lot stronger knife than the Ka-Bar with a lifetime warranty.There have been several reports of the Ka-Bar breaking at the tang.It should however hold up fine if you don't try to baton really large sticks.IMHO battoning should only be used to reduce fairly small sticks into fire starting tinder.
 
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