Cabon/tool steel and pepper spots

silenthunterstudios

Slipjoint Addict
Joined
Feb 2, 2005
Messages
20,039
I hope that this can stay here, I'd like to hear what you traditional knife owners use. I've got a couple carbon steel and tool steel factory blades, with pepper spots. Some of these I carry every day, like my Tracy Larock dogleg jack and Lannys Clip. I am one hundred percent sure I can send them in to Tracy to get cleaned up, I can also ask a knife maker friend of mine to clean them up. I've Flitzed both of them, and I've started putting some oil on them to keep them clean. I use them for everything, I work an office job where I can't carry them, but outside of work, I carry them every day. I also have an issue with a few old Tidioute and Northfield knives, especially my 73 single blade trapper I have put a patina on several times.

I'm not talking big rust spots just pepper spots. What do you do use to remove those spots? These knives are stored in a Harbor Freight tool chest with silicate packets.
 
I used 4000 grit micro-mesh pads, they smooth out the spots pretty quick without affecting the patina or finish.
 
I think they're unavoidable on a user knife unless you want to wipe the blade with Flitz every night.
 
If Flitz won't remove them, you need to use sandpaper and will forever change the finish. Just live with it. Oil or wax after use will help minimize them. A rinse and a wipe during use will help too. If you use sandpaper, I usually go 400, 600, 800, 1200 for a polished 1095 blade.

The only true solution is stainless steel :)
 
I don't remove pepper spots. I just oil them and make sure they stay black rather than red.
 
I don't remove pepper spots. I just oil them and make sure they stay black rather than red.

That's what I do. Sometimes a little red will 'hide' within the black spots. So, a brightly-lit inspection with a magnifier on occasion is a good idea. If there is a little red there, a scrubbing with some water-moistened baking soda (to coarse paste consistency) usually cleans the red rust away. If no red in the spots, I just let it be, and it becomes part of the blade's patina. And a patinated finish will help to resist new isolated spotting as well, I've noticed. It's challenging to forever prevent spotting on an unpatinated carbon-steel (non-stainless) blade. I've seen spots turn up in one afternoon's worth of pocket carry in humid weather. Sooner or later, it always creeps in, so I've found a controlled patina, or at least a well-monitored one, to be an easier-to-live-with compromise.


David
 
Last edited:
Back
Top