caly 3 point sticking out slightly.

sogflash

sogflash

Joined
Aug 28, 2011
Messages
1,600
The point of my caly 3 is sticking out a little bit when closed. If I run my finger over it I get cut.

How can I get it so sit lower?
 
If it is still in original condition, I'd call that a Spyderco QC issue. Personally I'd send it back to them for evaluation and repair. That way your warranty will still be in place, and you don't need to regrind it yourself.
 
The little known Caly 3.25 - a 3.5 blade in a 3.0 handle!!!

Agree with KrisOK - get it back to Spyderco and I'm sure they will make it right.
 
File down the tip of the blade kick a tiny bit. It doesn't take much. Or you can send it to Spyderco. Personally, I would rather do it myself. I've done such small adjustments so many times that it usually takes me two minutes, whereas a trip to the spa will take at least two weeks.
 
quigibo said:
The little known Caly 3.25 - a 3.5 blade in a 3.0 handle!!!
.
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I tried that once and it doesn't fit. Thought the Super Blue 3.0 blade would be sweet in the carbon fiber 3.5 handle but it wasn't happening.:(
 
1. Is the knife new or advertised as new before you procured it?
2. Are you the original/first owner?

If so, I imagine the Spyderco warranty would cover you.

If it is not new/second or third-hand used knife, then simply run the blade, spine-down, over a nice sharpening stone or sandpaper (might need several different grits to get a nice satin finish). I dislike simply dropping the point, but that is an option too, rather than abrading away the entire spine until the point stays inside the handle.
 
The shape of the caly 3 blade and the way that it fits into the handle does not give a lot of room for many sharpenings before it begins to stick out. Is it possible this one has been sharpened a few times?
 
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huckabee is right. If it has been sharpened a bunch of times, it'll bring the tip up proud of the scales.
 
senoBDEC said:
... simply run the blade, spine-down, over a nice sharpening stone or sandpaper (might need several different grits to get a nice satin finish). I dislike simply dropping the point, but that is an option too, rather than abrading away the entire spine until the point stays inside the handle.
Click to expand...

Personally, I find adjusting the kick to lower the blade far preferable to simply grinding the blade off until it's short enough to stay below the scales, but to each his own.
 
yablanowitz said:
Personally, I find adjusting the kick to lower the blade far preferable to simply grinding the blade off until it's short enough to stay below the scales, but to each his own.
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Ah, I guess my meaning was unclear, I meant grinding the very tip of spine off to make it more of a drop-point. Did it on an old Delica 3, and didn't like it, one reason I'm not a huge fan of the Delica/Endura 4 blade shapes. I prefer pointy knives...

Yes, abrading the kick slightly to allow the blade to sit more deeply in the handles is an easier/better method too, assuming the edge has been sharpened fairly evenly and won't make contact with the backspring.
 
Use a file, sharpening stone or grinder (I generally use a Dremel with a cutoff wheel) to remove a little steel from the point of the kick where it contacts the lockbar when the blade is closed. Just take a tiny bit at a time, close the knife to see where the point is, then repeat as needed. Taking off one thousandth of an inch from the kick will drop the tip ten to twenty thousandths, depending on the blade length and geometry, so work slowly and check often.
 
First make sure there is no dirt/lint ball between the kick and the spring keeping the tip up. This could be the cause of the problem.
 
Also, be ware that taking too much off of the kick will cause the midlock to portrude, which may lead to more filing.
 
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