I have just bought my first Spyderco Knife, a Calypso Jnr LTWT and it's brilliant.What is the correct angle to sharpen at using a Lansky system? What is the best grade stone to use for general work i.e. whittling, cutting plastic ties, rope,and some slicing work? Can I do what Joe Talmadge has suggested elsewhere and do part of the blade with a coarse stone and part with a fine one?
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Calypso Jnr Lightweight - Sharpening
- Thread starter richard w
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I'd say there is no correct angle for it. Spyderco recommends using their Sharpmaker with 20 degrees angle, but the knife has very probably been sharpened with sharper angle at the factory. For Calypso Jr. I'd say don't go over 20 degrees, rather a bit less (it keeps the edge quite well). So pick one angle, sharpen it to that, and try it (use it)... if you don't like it, then use different angle next time. (Remember that the Lansky angles are only approximations - the real angle depends on the knife blade also.)
I can not say anything about what Lansky stone to use as I don't have the system. Calypso Jr. is about the smallest knife I could imagine using a coarser sharpening at some part and more polished at other, so maybe you could try that. Again, if it's not good, you can easily change it later on.
Hugo.
I can not say anything about what Lansky stone to use as I don't have the system. Calypso Jr. is about the smallest knife I could imagine using a coarser sharpening at some part and more polished at other, so maybe you could try that. Again, if it's not good, you can easily change it later on.
Hugo.
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I personally razor polish my Calypso Jr., because I usually don't end up slicing rope or anything like that with it. In fact, even if I do have to cut some not-to-thick rope, the incredible edge geometry plus the razor polish combine to let me push-cut all the way through just about all .5"-thick rope. For thicker stuff, I carry a combo-ground endura or Axis.
Anyway, how you sharpen your knife depends on how you'll use it. If your Calypso Jr. lightweight will be used to slice thick, hard rope, or similar tasks, coarse-grind it (I agree that a 3" blade is generally the smallest I'd go with a combo-grind). If it will be used for thinner rope than that, opening mail, slicing through cardboard, etc., you can go to a fine grit or even all the way to a razor polish, and you will love the results.
Joe
[This message has been edited by Joe Talmadge (edited 12-01-2000).]
Anyway, how you sharpen your knife depends on how you'll use it. If your Calypso Jr. lightweight will be used to slice thick, hard rope, or similar tasks, coarse-grind it (I agree that a 3" blade is generally the smallest I'd go with a combo-grind). If it will be used for thinner rope than that, opening mail, slicing through cardboard, etc., you can go to a fine grit or even all the way to a razor polish, and you will love the results.
Joe
[This message has been edited by Joe Talmadge (edited 12-01-2000).]
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I usually carry two knives: A Calypso Jr. Ltw. and something bigger, lately my Military. I keep my Calypso Ltw. scalpel sharp for cutting splinters out of my hands--too hard to carry around tweezers. I use the 15 degree slots in my 204. I rarely have to use my grey stones, just the whites, followed by a set of Hock steels in the slots, and then polishing on a leather strop. The Calypso Ltw. is a truely amazing blade. I could probably take the angle down to the 20 degree slot and have the edge hold up longer, but I prefer the 15 for my needs.
Good luck!
Barry H
Good luck!
Barry H
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Richard,
You definitely can't to go wrong with this little but very useful knife. In my opinion it is just right for precise work so I would sharpen it to razor sharp polished edge. Mine is sharpened with quite (about ¾ of sharpening area width) wide back bevel with 30-degree angle and narrow very edge (about 1/4 of sharpening area width) with 40-degree angle.
It slices like crazy! Please look here for some funny comparison test results.
You definitely can't to go wrong with this little but very useful knife. In my opinion it is just right for precise work so I would sharpen it to razor sharp polished edge. Mine is sharpened with quite (about ¾ of sharpening area width) wide back bevel with 30-degree angle and narrow very edge (about 1/4 of sharpening area width) with 40-degree angle.
It slices like crazy! Please look here for some funny comparison test results.
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- Nov 25, 1999
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- 1,499
Barry,
Thanks for your trust but I do not have all knives of the world
What a pity!
However I'm going to make some comparison test in edge retention between the blades of ATS-34, M-2, CPM 440V, 154CM, VG-10, XT-80 (Katz Knives) and some steels more.
This absorbs pretty much time, first I have to cope with some earlier planned writings.
Thanks for your trust but I do not have all knives of the world
However I'm going to make some comparison test in edge retention between the blades of ATS-34, M-2, CPM 440V, 154CM, VG-10, XT-80 (Katz Knives) and some steels more.
This absorbs pretty much time, first I have to cope with some earlier planned writings.
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Mundele- I bought two Hock steels at a woodworking shop in a suburb of Minneapolis.
Ron Hock makes accessories for woodworkers, like plane irons. His stuff is sold on the internet. I think I paid $25 for the pair including tax. The steels are super smooth and hardened to 65RC. They are 3/8" in diameter and about 6" long. They fit perfectly into the slots of a 204 0r 203. I know some people endorse the steels made by Razor's Edge, but those have to be rested in the hook slot of the 203/204 stones. I personally feel that the Hocks require less fiddeling around with. If you have problems getting them, let me know. I am just starting a small scale knife shop, and I hope to be able to sell these as accessories.
Good luck!
Barry Haugen
Ron Hock makes accessories for woodworkers, like plane irons. His stuff is sold on the internet. I think I paid $25 for the pair including tax. The steels are super smooth and hardened to 65RC. They are 3/8" in diameter and about 6" long. They fit perfectly into the slots of a 204 0r 203. I know some people endorse the steels made by Razor's Edge, but those have to be rested in the hook slot of the 203/204 stones. I personally feel that the Hocks require less fiddeling around with. If you have problems getting them, let me know. I am just starting a small scale knife shop, and I hope to be able to sell these as accessories.
Good luck!
Barry Haugen
Thanks for the reply guys.
Joe,
The finest stone I have in the Lansky system is 600. Would that be ok for what you call fine? I do have a plain steel as well but am not that confident yet in keeping a constant angle. BTW I found an article by you in the Spyderco archives re "making a scalpel of the Calypso Jnr". Did this go any further and were pictures posted etc. If so could you give me the thread please?
Barry,
I agree that this is probably the way to go. Use the Calypso Jnr LTWT for the fine, push cut stuff and maybe go for a fully serrated Spydie for the rougher stuff. Damn - more expense!! How does the Military compare with say the Delica or Native?
Sergiusz,
Interesting link to your steel test. When you mention angles in your reply presumably you mean total angles, that is grind both sides at 15 degrees then a secondary bevel at 20 degrees. Sorry but I'm new to the wonderful world of sharpening.
Joe,
The finest stone I have in the Lansky system is 600. Would that be ok for what you call fine? I do have a plain steel as well but am not that confident yet in keeping a constant angle. BTW I found an article by you in the Spyderco archives re "making a scalpel of the Calypso Jnr". Did this go any further and were pictures posted etc. If so could you give me the thread please?
Barry,
I agree that this is probably the way to go. Use the Calypso Jnr LTWT for the fine, push cut stuff and maybe go for a fully serrated Spydie for the rougher stuff. Damn - more expense!! How does the Military compare with say the Delica or Native?
Sergiusz,
Interesting link to your steel test. When you mention angles in your reply presumably you mean total angles, that is grind both sides at 15 degrees then a secondary bevel at 20 degrees. Sorry but I'm new to the wonderful world of sharpening.
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- Nov 3, 1999
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Hi Richard! To answer your question regarding The Military, I own one and love it. It's large, however. It must be close to 9" open, whereas the Native is probably 1/4" larger than the Calypso Ltw. I think the Native is slighly heavier, too. I actually own a Native, but I have yet decided to use it! Both the Native Ltw. and the Military use CPM 440V steel. The military has a flat grind whereas the Native seems to have a slight hollow grind. CPM 440V is a very tough steel and holds its edge very well, for me at least. It does require more time and finese to sharpen it, however. If you are just getting into sharpening, I use and recommend the Spyderco Sharpmaker 204. It has two sets of ceramic rods that can be used in either a set of 15 degree or 20 degree slots. I now have a set of ultra smooth steels that fit perfectly into the slots--3/8" diameter. Now if I could find a set of 320 or 400 grit rods to preceed the Spyderco grey rods, I'd be set for really dull knives. Spyderco gray rods are about 600 grit and working a dull blade takes forever!
Best of luck,
Barry H
Best of luck,
Barry H