Calypso Jr Burgundy - a Short Review

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Dec 8, 2003
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This is one knife or should I say steel I have been looking forward to reviewing. I did have a Calypso Jr Grey in VG10 which I believed to be one of the best slicing folders around and was equal to the Delica, my normal EDC, in all departments. The Calypso Burgundy is basically the same as the Calypso Grey and out of the box the only 2 features that appear different is the colour of the handle and the lamination line on the Calypso Burgundy’s blade. On closer inspection I believe that the stock behind the edge on the new Calypso is thinner then on the old model. The lamination line is about 5mm’s from the edge and at that spot on the blade it is .5mm thick and the blade at its thickest is just under 3mm’s and at its widest is just over 27mm’s. Otherwise the blade on the new model appears to be the same as the old. We deduce from this that the ZDP189 core is .5mm thick and the sandwich of 420j2 is around 2.5mm in total thickness.

Cosmetically this knife is nice to look at. The burgundy (maroon) handle is attractive being different without being garish the blade has a gold Spydie “tick” embossed on the blade, the clip is black with a gold Spydie “tick” also. At this stage I won’t go into the dimensions any further as they appear the same as the Grey model which has been around for a while and reviewed by many. It is really the steel that we are reviewing here as it is probably the first affordable ZDP189 folder to hit the market. According to what I have read the blade has been heat treated to about 63HRC and with the 3% carbon and 20% chromium edge retention should be good.

Out of the box this is the sharpest knife I have reviewed – I wouldn’t put it down as “scary” sharp but it is close to it. My first test was to cut a 3/8” manila rope and it did this cleanly without any hesitation and after another 39 cuts making a total of 40 it was cutting just as cleanly. I would rate this better than my ParaMilitary and Delica and this was out of the box. I proceeded to the kitchen and the Calypso Burgundy sliced new carrots cleanly, had no trouble with a ripe tomato and I was able to bone out a chicken leg and thigh easily and cube the meat.

Next, I sharpened a ½” hardwood dowel to a point, sliced a 1-1/2” x 12” x 5/32” leather strip into ¼” inch strips crossways and reduced a 2’ x 6” piece of packing cardboard into 1” strips using a push cut only. At the end of these tests the blade would still shave hairs on my arm and the edge showed no signs of chipping.

In conclusion following these early tests I would rate the Calypso Burgundy above the previous grey model, the VG10 Delica and the S30V Paramilitary as far as the above cutting tests are concerned. I know these tests were limited and that more in-depth tests need to be done but the surprising thing for me is that this was out of the box, so far I have not had to sharpen the ZDP189 and when I have to do that it will be interesting to see how it goes on the Sharpmaker. It will also be interesting to see what happens to the edge once it gets used in the field and whether any chipping of the edge is concerned. Normally I would not use this type of knife in the field for general use as I would carry my ParaMilitary for that purpose. I’ll reserve my opinion on ZDP189 but first impressions are good and I congratulate Spyderco in giving us the chance to try this steel and in such a good vehicle as the Calypso. Now I can’t wait to get my hands on the Blue Delica in ZDP189.
 
JD nice review.I like the new calypso also its the sharpest knife out of box I've ever got.I doubt that I can achieve that level of sharpness when it needs a sharpening.
I let my wife slice a tomato while she prepared lunch and her reaction was that knife is dangerous its to sharp. :D
 
JDBLADE said:
Out of the box this is the sharpest knife I have reviewed ...

It seems to be getting this comment a lot, it will be interested to see how the resharpening goes.


It will also be interesting to see what happens to the edge once it gets used in the field and whether any chipping of the edge is concerned.

I cut cross grain hard woods, thick pastics (1/8" pop bottle bottoms), and pop cans with no effect, but I could not open a tin can (mushrooms) without the edge chipping visibly, the edge was quite acute though.

Nice knife, this is one of those knives I think pretty much everyone should have, or at least use as it is very well designed, functional, cohesive, cuts well, stays sharp, ergonomic and easy to carry.

-Cliff
 
Nice knife, this is one of those knives I think pretty much everyone should have, or at least use as it is very well designed, functional, cohesive, cuts well, stays sharp, ergonomic and easy to carry.

I have to agree with Cliff here. I have one of the 'older' VG10 models and it is a terrific little knife... and you can get em for < $40.00. Very pocketable IMHO. :thumbup:

Joe
 
Some good information there, JD.

Not trying to get you to abuse your knife, but wondering if you might be willing to cut some copper wire - solid, something in the 16-12 gage range if you have some available, with the ZDP189 Caly Jr.?

Because of the delicate tip I really wouldn't want to see you try cutting into a steel can, and copper wire would be a less extreme test of heavy, middle of the blade cutting than something like coat hanger. From what you've said it sounds like the ZDP189 would cut standard Romex without a problem.
 
I find it interesting the edge is at a hardness of rc 63. Wasn't the first run of the VG-10 calipsos at the same hardness rc 63?
 
Dog of War said:
Some good information there, JD.

Not trying to get you to abuse your knife, but wondering if you might be willing to cut some copper wire - solid, something in the 16-12 gage range if you have some available, with the ZDP189 Caly Jr.?

Because of the delicate tip I really wouldn't want to see you try cutting into a steel can, and copper wire would be a less extreme test of heavy, middle of the blade cutting than something like coat hanger. From what you've said it sounds like the ZDP189 would cut standard Romex without a problem.

Not having any copper wire lying around - not that I could find anyway, I decided to use a square copper rod. Using a push cut at various spots on the blade I pared slivers of copper off the rod with no discernable impact on the edge. I then drew the edge across the rod with medium pressure cutting into the copper and then I repeated the process with heavy pressure again with no discernable impact on the edge.

Wanting to find out how resharpening would go I drew the edge across a smooth steel a couple of times until the edge felt blunt to the thumb and it would no longer shave hair. Using a Sharpmaker at 30 degrees with the coarse rods after 20 passes per side the edge appeared to be as good as new NB the factory edge on my Calypso is less than 30 degrees so in fact I created a micro bevel. A point of interest using the Sharpmaker I did not appear to create a burr which I continually checked for.

Given the current profile of the Calypso IMO sharpening should not be a problem using a medium like the Sharpmaker. I also gave the Calypso 10 strokes on both sides of clean white rods which left a fine black line so for those who like a polished edge it should be no problem.
 
JD, thanks again, IMO that's very useful information to have. What you describe doing with the copper rod almost had to have put significant side or lateral stress on the edge, making results extremely impressive overall.

I really like the way the few high hardness (63-66 HRC) blades I own sharpen, at least for routine touch ups. With the edge retention you get at these levels it's just a lot less work over time IMO, unless of course you get a bad chip or other serious damage. I've also never seen much tendency for steels at this hardness to burr.
 
Dog of War said:
What you describe doing with the copper rod almost had to have put significant side or lateral stress on the edge, making results extremely impressive overall.

Not necessarily, I can take a 10" spike, 3/8" thick and whittle on it with a 1095 full hard paring knife, ~5 degree edge, <0.1 mm microbevel, without visible damage. It isn't that demanding on a knife edge if you use proper technique, you just have to apply enough force to get the edge to bite in, and be careful on the draw not to twist the blade. Similar with cutting wire, it doesn't take much on an edge if you baton it precisely, it can be demanding if you just loop cut it, or chop it on a soft media. It would be interesting to see some comparisons of the ZDP-189 vs other steels in the same profile.

-Cliff
 
Sold!

Somebody's going to be getting my $70 pretty soon. Great reviews, JDBLADE! I like to see someone who's actually willing to test a blade, rather than post a review like "Oh, it's really a pretty knife, and feels good to hold, and is nice and sharp." :rolleyes: Thanks for putting it to the grindstone, so-to-speak. One review like this is worth more than any number of "blah, blah, blahs"

Daniel
 
Cliff Stamp said:
I could not open a tin can (mushrooms) without the edge chipping visibly, the edge was quite acute though.

I did this again with the edge reset and a 20 degree micro-bevel (less than 0.1 mm wide, not visible), no damage at all. I don't think the micro-bevel could add that much to the durability so it likely a case of less than optimal optimal edges.

-Cliff
 
Daniel Dorn said:
Sold!

Somebody's going to be getting my $70 pretty soon. Great reviews, JDBLADE! I like to see someone who's actually willing to test a blade, rather than post a review like "Oh, it's really a pretty knife, and feels good to hold, and is nice and sharp." :rolleyes: Thanks for putting it to the grindstone, so-to-speak. One review like this is worth more than any number of "blah, blah, blahs"

Daniel

Thanks Daniel. Glad you appreciated the review.
 
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