Camel bone doesn't need to be stabilized?

[REK Knives]

Just got off of the phone with Culpepper & Co (knifehandles.com) and I was asking about their camel bone scales - if they were stabilized. She stated that they did not need to be because they were already so dense (similar to giraffe bone) that they wouldn't "take" the stabilizing, it wouldn't penetrate.

Is this accurate? I don't want spend the time on an expensive build only to have them crack in the future. Any help is appreciated!

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Yes and No, camel bone is dense, but it can be dyed and stabilized. It doesn't have to be done, but can be.

 

[REK Knives]

thank you Stacy, so best best would be to go ahead and have it stabilized just to be as safe as possible I'm guessing.

 

[Horsewright]

I have used lots of camel bone from Culpepper and for many years. Literally just opened an invoice email from them and have 4 sets of camel bone en route along with numerous other materials. Anyhoo I've never seen a problem from not having them stabilized. I've had 2 hard use knives crack a handle from getting dropped onto a concrete floor and the other onto a tile floor. Simple repairs and this is out of hundreds of knives with camel bone out there and being really used. Where stabilization might make life easier is in the finishing of the handle. Sometimes camel bone can kinda be open pored. I've experimented with hand sanding and polishing to high grits, buffing, sealing with superglue etc. I am wet sanding with danish oil these days but stabilization might make all that extra work go away. Anyhoo its a great material and I've been very happy with it. My current own personal EDC is one of my Stainless Vaqueros with a copper bolster and camel bone handles.

Hanging with a hot blonde on the beach:

Its also been an excellent seller for us over the years and I will have some in every batch of knives I make:

Count five in this batch right before Christmas:

 

[REK Knives]

I have used lots of camel bone from Culpepper and for many years. Literally just opened an invoice email from them and have 4 sets of camel bone en route along with numerous other materials. Anyhoo I've never seen a problem from not having them stabilized. I've had 2 hard use knives crack a handle from getting dropped onto a concrete floor and the other onto a tile floor. Simple repairs and this is out of hundreds of knives with camel bone out there and being really used. Where stabilization might make life easier is in the finishing of the handle. Sometimes camel bone can kinda be open pored. I've experimented with hand sanding and polishing to high grits, buffing, sealing with superglue etc. I am wet sanding with danish oil these days but stabilization might make all that extra work go away. Anyhoo its a great material and I've been very happy with it. My current own personal EDC is one of my Stainless Vaqueros with a copper bolster and camel bone handles.

Hanging with a hot blonde on the beach:

Its also been an excellent seller for us over the years and I will have some in every batch of knives I make:

Count five in this batch right before Christmas:

Wow thanks so much for the information and the pics!! I really don't mind it being somewhat porous as long as there aren't any large voids - I think some of that gives the scales nice character. I was thinking of getting this piece (5 x 1 1/2 x 1/4 (polished flat top w/synthetic filler)), what do you think?

Also, for repairing cracked camel bone like you mentioned above, how do you do that w/ epoxy?

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

The reason I have used it stabilized is to avoid the polish getting so packed into the pores. You still get some graniness.

 

[Bill DeShivs]

Camel bone is the Dymondwood of the 2010s.
Cheap Pakistani knives use it.

 

[LARRYZ10]

Camel bone is the Dymondwood of the 2010s.
Cheap Pakistani knives use it.

Bill, I have had more requests for camel bone handles than any other material. I like it but it is not as strong and tough as many hardwoods and certainly not Micarta. I like it though for knives that will not be used in all circumstances. It is best for a salami and cheese knife while waiting out a blizzard in a tent filled with supplies and a case of Canadian beer in my opinion. Larry

 

[Ocelot85]

Bill, I have had more requests for camel bone handles than any other material. I like it but it is not as strong and tough as many hardwoods and certainly not Micarta. I like it though for knives that will not be used in all circumstances. It is best for a salami and cheese knife while waiting out a blizzard in a tent filled with supplies and a case of Canadian beer in my opinion. Larry

Sounds like a good time minus the blizzard.

 

[Horsewright]

Sounds like a good time minus the blizzard.

Depends on the tent and the company!

 

[Horsewright]

Wow thanks so much for the information and the pics!! I really don't mind it being somewhat porous as long as there aren't any large voids - I think some of that gives the scales nice character. I was thinking of getting this piece (5 x 1 1/2 x 1/4 (polished flat top w/synthetic filler)), what do you think?

Also, for repairing cracked camel bone like you mentioned above, how do you do that w/ epoxy?

I just replaced the handle, it is relatively inexpensive and doesn't take too long. I really started getting requests for it when our guys started coming back from The Sandbox.

 

[Matt Rochester]

I have used a good bit of camel bone and none has been stabilized. I have just sanded it up to 600 and put a finish on it. I use teak oil. It does turn a little more cream than white though. Ive also heard of folks using mineral oil or CA but I’ve not tried that.