Cameras?

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I've used point and shoot cameras for a long time now but if I can swing it money-wise, I think I'd like to move up to a DSLR.

What do I look for? What's a beginner camera without breaking the bank? Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Kirk
 
You have two choices, Canon or Nikon. None of the other brands can come close to the lenses offered by those two.

You'll get tons of people from either side that will try to talk you into one or the other, but you can't really go wrong with either of them.

That being said, Canon is way better than Nikon.
 
Nikon and Canon are the DSLR leaders. I'm a Nikon guy so I can't help with regards to Canon. Nikon's D60 and D90 are both entry level DSLRs. A zoom lens would be a good place to start - say the Nikkor 19-200 VRII. The better the glass [the lens] the better the pictures. You couldn't go wrong with a D90 w/ 18-200. It's actually a good time to buy Nikon as they have a lens/camera rebate program on right now.

For example: http://nikonrumors.com/2010/04/07/n...rama-including-all-possible-combinations.aspx

Buy a UV filter to protect the lens and also get a polarizer for landscape/outdoor shots. Look at lowepro camera bags to protect your new investment.

It's money well spent. Point and shoots are great, but they have limits. Their brutal speed is what kills me.
 
That being said, Canon is way better than Nikon.

Haha ...

No it isn't ... :D

Wildewinds is right, both very good. One often leads for a while and then the other. Nikon definitely has the edge right now with their pro level cameras especially: D3X and D3S ... and to some degree the D700. Canon's pro bodies can't touch these right now - especially the ISO performance of the D3S - wow! Awesome stuff. Super high ISO - low noise.
 
I've used point and shoot cameras for a long time now but if I can swing it money-wise, I think I'd like to move up to a DSLR.

What do I look for? What's a beginner camera without breaking the bank? Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Kirk

ANY DSLR will take better photos than any point and shoot, with the possible exception of macro shots (super close-ups of small objects.) DSLRs have no shutter lag and significantly larger sensors than those in point and shoots. Don't be fooled by megapixel comparisons. A 6 megapixel DSLR is actually better than a 12 megapixel P&S.

The brand doesn't matter that much. Sony is #3 behind Canon and Nikon and makes Nikon's sensors. They bought out the old Minolta brand and relabeled it as "Sony." Pentax is a good brand, too. Since the lenses for each manufacturer only work with their own brand, your choice today dictates what you will buy in the future if you buy additional lenses. If you only plan to buy one lens and keep it on the camera, it doesn't matter that much. Any entry level DSLR will do what you need it to.

I shoot Nikon, but Canon is just as good and better for some applications. My best advice is beware marketing hype and what the salesmen try to sell you IS and VR don't matter much, nor does megapixels. If you want more info., send me a PM and I'll send you to the photography equivalent of www.bladeforums.com -- good people who can give you honest advice.
 
It's hard to give much help, without more information (such as your price range, level of skill, photographic interests, etc.). In addition to the entry level Nikons mentioned, you might want to look at the latest Canon Rebel, the Canon 50D, and the Canon D700. Also, you might want to see if you like anything available used, on the secondary market.
 
I am looking at the Nikon D5000DX. I talked with the folks at Wolf and they said it was a pretty good setup to start with.
 
I am looking at the Nikon D5000DX. I talked with the folks at Wolf and they said it was a pretty good setup to start with.
I think the most important thing to do when starting from scratch in the DSLR area is look at the lenses each maker produces, rather than the camera body. Canon and Nikon both make great "starter" cameras and none of the major makers make really bad cameras, but remember the big advantage of DSLRs is the interchangable lenses. Once you start buying lenses for one brand, it becomes very expensive to switch (especially if you get into fast telephotos or specialty lenses). Now, just about all the brands have the main bases covered, but look at prices, lens speeds, specialty lenses, and think about what you want to do with your camera (snap shots, birding, sports, landscapes, etc,) decide if there are any of them that you want, that one maker has but not another.

Optics are a fairly mature technology and lens selections from the main makers generally stay pretty stable, with only occasional new lenses introduced or old ones dropped. The technology of image capture and processing are still advancing at a dizzying speed, and DSLR bodies change almost every year (sometimes even more often).
 
I've shot Nikon for 20+ years, and now use a D700. I'd agree, though, that it's tough to go wrong with the major brands. Nikon & Canon offer the most extensive lens lines, but Pentax DSLRs are also great, as are the Sonys (based on old Minolta line).

I also agree with the suggestion to spend some hands on time with several bodies, preferably in the same place. One will speak to you.

In Nikon-land, the D5000 is a great camera. Jumping up to the D90 gets you some nice additional features and broader lens compatibility, but it's important to remember that the smart money is in glass, not bodies.
 
question for the Professional pixel slingers,

if low megapixels is better, why are all the pros shooting extremely high megapixels, and why are the camera makers trying to push the megapixels even higher,.....?
 
if low megapixels is better, why are all the pros shooting extremely high megapixels, and why are the camera makers trying to push the megapixels even higher,.....?
IMO, all other things being the same, more pixels are always better. That's why Canon and Nikon's most expensive pro cameras are pushing 20+ MP. However, supperior image processing can off-set a lot of the advantages of raw pixel counts, and that's what you generally get in DSLR cameras as opposed to point-and-shoot camera and why a 10 MP DSLR may produce better photos than a 15 MP point-and-shoot. ;)
 
You have two choices, Canon or Nikon. None of the other brands can come close to the lenses offered by those two.

You'll get tons of people from either side that will try to talk you into one or the other, but you can't really go wrong with either of them.

That being said, Canon is way better than Nikon.

I call 200 counts of BS on this-the lenses offered by all the brands out there are pretty much comparable, it just depends on how much money you want to spend. Olympus's top of the line telephoto long range lenses are 3-400 dollars while most of Canon's and Nikon's are around 2,000. There isn't much overall difference in quality. Canon's lens build quality has known to suck on particular models, and their customer service is without a doubt the worst in the industry-however their new T2i is specifically designed for outdoor photography. The body is a compact size, made out of armored magnesium. It uses the 70D processor (2,000 dollar camera), has the awesome flippy screen and is a wopping 18.1 megapixels. Price range for the kit is 849 dollars I believe. That said you are also taking the chance that 2 weeks after you buy it the autofocus motor will croak and Canon will say "too bad, your fault" (this is exactly what happened to me with 2 400 dollar Canon point and shoots this year). Get a Mountainsmith Aurora camera bag-it's a lumbar pack that also piggybacks well with most of their packs, costs 26 dollars and that's a quarter of the price of all the other good quality camera bags out there-not to mention it's by far the best construction and organization.
 
Bought a Canon XSI DSLR recently which seems excellent so far,haven't had the chance to use it much yet due to weather and a 3 week bout with the flu . Canon is a reliable brand i've been using a Canon AE-1 SLR for 20 years, my brother-in-law who was a wildlife photographer has been using Canon's since the 1970's.
That being said Nikon's are great as well, i have an uncle who was a pro photographer for 30 years and he swears by Nikon.
You won't go wrong with either a Canon or Nikon.
 
question for the Professional pixel slingers,

if low megapixels is better, why are all the pros shooting extremely high megapixels, and why are the camera makers trying to push the megapixels even higher,.....?

low megapixels aren't better... the pictures take up less space on your memory card and also take less time to load, which depending on the camera can be a major bottleneck in the lag between successive shots. For photographing wildlife (I took 300 pictures of two owls last night over the course of 2.5 hours) that can be a big deal. However, this also depends on the memory card you buy-a quality high speed memory card will save an 18 megapixel photo faster than a low quality memory card (IE PNY walmart brand crap) will save a 6 megapixel photo. 90% of the high megapixel cameras have an option to reduce image size in 1 megapixel steps down to 3 megapixels, so you can always buy a high megapixel camera and save space by selecting to shoot at 6 or 8 megapixels instead.
 
My mom shoots a Canon XTi and thinks her G11 point and shoot takes far superior quality pictures. Just another option to throw out there... SLRs are big and bulky and are a waste if you don't know what you're doing with them. They are fragile and high maintenance. Maybe investing in a top of the line point and shoot like the Canon G11 or a Leica is overall a better option-I'm faced with this decision right now.
 
I am looking at the Nikon D5000DX. I talked with the folks at Wolf and they said it was a pretty good setup to start with.

Beware of Nikon's Walmart firmware. These cameras were marketed towards department store shopping yuppies and every time you take a picture the firmware asks you if someone blinked and if you want to delete it... it's absolutely rediculous. If you get up in the face of a pissed off moose and you have to sit there screwing around with the firmware telling the camera no, the moose didn't blink, he just has long eyelashes, when instead you should be taking followup shots... man that just infuriates me. All the new Nikons have that BS. It took me 2 hours to disable all the completely unnecessary hoity toity autodetection features on my L100 just to make it useable.
 
Since going digital Cameras have acquired some of the problems associated with computers, mainly quick obsolescence, or at least a short "state of the art" lifespan.
The specs of todays state of the art computer/camera will be the specs of an entry level computer/camera X months from now.
Don't get hung up on getting the highest megapixel camera, because even if you buy the best it will not be the king of the hill anymore in a short span of time.
For sure get a decent moderate megapixel camera with more special attention paid to the features/controls that you like/want in a camera.
I would however try to get the best/most-versatile lenses you can afford in any particular brand you choose. That lens technology is still at least relatively stable.
And if you buy a newer body down the road you will be able to use the lens from the previous camera.
Actually you can even get adapters to use older SLR lenses on DSLR's.
My uncles using his collection of 40 year old Nikon lens's on his Nikon D50 DSLR.
For me I'm figuring on developing a nice little stable of good lenses and just upgrading camera bodies every few years depending on advances in the tech in DSLR's.
 
question for the Professional pixel slingers,

if low megapixels is better, why are all the pros shooting extremely high megapixels, and why are the camera makers trying to push the megapixels even higher,.....?

There are some misconceptions in this thread. Higher pixel counts aren't always better -- there are multiple tradeoffs at stake.

The issue is that digital cameras can have vastly different sensor sizes, which directly affects the size of each individual pixel. Pixel size directly influences the ability of the sensor to gather light. What this all means is that the smaller the pixels, the worse the camera does in low light.

Take a look at this image, which compares the most common sensor sizes used in cameras today:

428px-SensorSizes.svg.png


You can ignore the top "medium format" image. Next, in the upper left, is a full frame sensor, which is the same size as a frame of 35mm film. In the old film days, even most point and shoot cameras shot essentially the same size film (though there were a few orphan miniature formats along the way: disc, APS, old 110 & 126, etc.). Today, though, digital point and shoot cameras have very tiny sensors, which which is what makes it possible to make entire cameras so small, and so affordable. The numbers are hard to interpret, since they don't actually refer to the dimensions of the frame -- but take a look at the comparative size. Most compact digitals today are made with a 1/2.5" sensor, which is TINY. Some of the higher end and larger models might have up to a 1/1.7" sensor, which is still significantly smaller than your pinky nail.

When you squeeze 12 megapixels onto a chip that small, each pixel is a very, very tiny little bucket, and it can't gather much light. Each step up in sensor size improves light-gathering ability, though it also means the camera, and its lenses, must be bigger, too.

Most DSLRs made today use an APS-sized sensor (Panasonic and Olympus have an alternative that is smaller, called "four thirds", which is a nice compact alternative). An APS body with a 12mp sensor will outperform a compact with its tiny sensor. A 12mp full frame body will outperform all of them.

Pros don't always shoot very high megapixels. It's true that Canon, Nikon, and Sony all make high resolution (24mp+) full frame bodies, which are great for use in studios and landscape settings where you shoot with artificial light or on a tripod. There are many situations, though, when pro shooters need low light performance -- shooting sports, where you need to keep shutter speeds high to freeze motion, low light performances, etc. A 12mp full frame Nikon D700 (what I shoot), D3, or D3s will, in most circumstances, be better in low light than a 24mp full frame body.

Everything is a compromise, of course.

The current consumer APS SLRs from Nikon, Canon, and Pentax are all quite good. So are the 4/3 bodies from Panasonic and Olympus, which are more compact (they also do mirrorless "micro-4/3" bodies that have the same size sensor, but no mirror reflex housing, to save additional bulk and weight).

In the compact range, the Canon G11 and S90 (same sensor, different bodies) and the Panasonic LX3 are generally considered to give the best image quality in a point and shoot body -- good quality lenses, good electronics, and sensors that aren't overly ambitious.

More here:

http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/digital-camera-sensor-size.htm
 
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