Camillus BushCrafter

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Fuori

Joined
Oct 13, 2014
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A friend bought a few of the Camillus BushCrafter knives on sale and is offering me one for $40 bucks, but I really know nothing about them. What is the grind on them? Are they difficult for a novice to sharpen with that shape? How are they for field dressing? Worth the $40 or save that for the next toy I want? Among other things I've thought about getting another Mora Bushcraft for that price as well.
 
Fuori said:
A friend bought a few of the Camillus BushCrafter knives on sale and is offering me one for $40 bucks, but I really know nothing about them. What is the grind on them? Are they difficult for a novice to sharpen with that shape? How are they for field dressing? Worth the $40 or save that for the next toy I want? Among other things I've thought about getting another Mora Bushcraft for that price as well.
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They look nice and are made in the USA using good ol' 1095 , so considering the prices I see them for online I'd say that for 40$ you should definitely go for it .
 
Fuori said:
Thank you for the reply. Does anyone know if it's a scandi grind?
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Loomed lime it in the pictures I saw on Google, but I'm not 100%.
Maybe google it and see what the specs are on whatever website has them in stock.
 
40$ for that knife is a steal. I have one and paid $70 and its worth every penny of that.

If they were that price regularly, you wouldn't see meany people recommending Condor Bushlore's. Heck, just checked Amazon, Micarta Handled Bushlores are $46.

Buy it already before your friend comes to his senses.
 
Just buy the knife, already. If you don't like it, anyone here would be happy to buy it from you.
 
My friend is a good guy and got a few at a really great price, so he offered one to me for what he paid for it. It seems like a good deal price wise, but I've been thinking about that new Mora with the full tang, another Bushcraft Black, and a few others in that price range. That's my only hesitation. Am I better of buying something I've never considered or staying focused money wise on the ones I've been looking at?
 
Fuori said:
Am I better of buying something I've never considered or staying focused money wise on the ones I've been looking at?
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I think it is worth $40 only if you are sure that you want it. If buying this knife will keep you from buying the knife you really want, leave it be.

It is a Scandi with micro bevel edge according to what I read on the Internet.

I have a copy and I am curious as to why the maker left the spine with prominent tool marks.
 
What is the difference between sharpening a scandi grind and a scandi grind with a micro bevel?
 
Fuori said:
What is the difference between sharpening a scandi grind and a scandi grind with a micro bevel?
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Slightly easier. The micro bevel is what you're sharpening. And less likely to chip in use. At least that's my experience.

Zieg
 
Fuori said:
What is the difference between sharpening a scandi grind and a scandi grind with a micro bevel?
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"Scandi grind" is used for different grinds. The Brits defined the "official" "scandi grind" as saber grind with a relatively low, single bevel. While it is supposed to be the nuts for wood-carving, few professional wood-carvers use it.

Why do you want some version of the "scandi grind"?
 
Thomas Linton said:
"Scandi grind" is used for different grinds. The Brits defined the "official" "scandi grind" as saber grind with a relatively low, single bevel. While it is supposed to be the nuts for wood-carving, few professional wood-carvers use it.

Why do you want some version of the "scandi grind"?
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I don't necessarily, but it is easier for a novice like myself to sharpen. I'm not sure how I'd sharpen one with a micro bevel though.
 
Since most with that title come with a secondary bevel, you will need to overrule the maker and grind it doen to a single bevel.

"Scandi" grinds also come with concave bevels, high bevels, and convex bevels. The latter two are probably not practical to "fix" into the official British Scandi Grind. The first you can just ignore.

Think of how "tactical" is used and you get the idea. "Scandi" sells.

Makers say the secondary bevel makes for a stronger edge - i.e. less prone to damage.

The lack of a secondary bevel only makes sharpening harder: 1) if you free-hand sharpen; and 2) are inexperienced sharpening. Both can be overcome; the first by a sharpening tool and the second by experience.
 
It looks like it would be a good shape for a skinner but I think the mora would be a better woods tool. I would ask which task you more want the knife for and buy that one. It sounds like you already know the camillus is a good buy
 
Thomas Linton said:
Since most with that title come with a secondary bevel, you will need to overrule the maker and grind it doen to a single bevel.

"Scandi" grinds also come with concave bevels, high bevels, and convex bevels. The latter two are probably not practical to "fix" into the official British Scandi Grind. The first you can just ignore.

Think of how "tactical" is used and you get the idea. "Scandi" sells.

Makers say the secondary bevel makes for a stronger edge - i.e. less prone to damage.

The lack of a secondary bevel only makes sharpening harder: 1) if you free-hand sharpen; and 2) are inexperienced sharpening. Both can be overcome; the first by a sharpening tool and the second by experience.
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Thanks for the explanation. How would you suggest I sharpen it if I purchase it since you said I should overrule the maker and grind it down to a single bevel? Normally with a scandi I just press down on the side and sharpen it with that angle if that makes sense.
 
Takes a bit of time to hone down a Scandi grind with a micro-bevel, but once you get to that perfect no-micro bevel V the result is awesome. I've done a few Moras that way and my Ivan Campos Scandi grind (1070) came with a true V grind. Plain high carbon steels with lower/smaller carbides seem to take an extra-fine edge (1070/80, 1095, 50110, 52100).
 
Fori, if you want the "official" British "Scandi grind," you have to grind away metal until you have a single bevel. That is simple to say but how hard to accomplish depends on the size of the secondary bevel, the steel (esp. resistance to abrasion), your sharpening tool(s), and your patience. Lay it flat and grind away.

I didn't say you should do that. That is up to you. As you see, some think it's great. Most makers don't make knives that way, including most makers of knives in Finland and Scandinavia. Finns, for example, tend to make knives with much higher primary bevels and a secondary bevel. Lapps like flat grinds instead of saber with a secondary bevel. Fallkniven of Sweden likes convex grinds.

I have purchased one knife from a Nordic country that came with the official "Scandi grind." That's one out of seventy-three, six of which were genuine custom knives, including two by the Norwegian moderator of the BritishBlades "Scandinavian Knife Forum" at the time, who didn't like the official "Scandi grind" or even that name. But I buy general outdoor knives, not knives intended solely for woodwork. Not that any professional woodworker whom I know of use(d) the official "Scandi grind."

As long as one guy likes the official "Scandi grind" enough, someone will see he gets it, even if its you.
 
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