Camp/Bowie Knife

L

lwrhea

Joined
May 24, 2005
Messages
1,482
I recently finished a full tang knife that I want to share with you. I dont make many full tang knives and so I have to change my routine somewhat to make one.

The blade on this knife is 9 inches with an OAL of 14 inches.

The pattern is a type of twist and the steels are 1084 and 15N20.

The gaurd is 416 stainless.

The handle is Desert Ironwood with black liners.

I tapered and hollow ground the tang, which lightened the knife considerably. The blade thickness is slightly less than 1/4 inch about .240 or so at the ricasso and tapers both ways so it has good balance.

Chuck took the time to photograph it even though this week is going to be very trying due to the loss of his close friend. I told him not to worry with the knife, but he did anyway. Thanks Chuck.

5180981639_64ec44b3dc_b.jpg
 
I really like the tang tapered thin...gives an entirely different ballance
to the piece. The black liners look like they were invited..

A very well done and attractive piece.......Thanks for the viewing.
 
Very nice, Lin. The handle shape and pins,tapered tang and liners bring out some spectacular Ironwood.

John
 
Man - proportions are so hard to judge from a photo. With the handle-forward angle of the shot I would have guessed 7" blade max.

That is one cool-looking camp knife Lin. Very nice overall lines and the handle looks to be very comfortable indeed. As with the others, I quite like the black liners.

Roger
 
Lin,

On a full, tapered tang like that, do you etch the damascus after completion, and if so, how do you protect the handle material and guard from the solution when etching the tang area, or do you have to worry about that?

Very nice knife.

Thanks.
 
Skyman,
The entire knife has to be shaped and fit up with the exception of the piened pins. I just slid a couple pins in and left the remaining predrilled holes empty. Then disassemble the knife, etch, reassemble the guard and pin it and clean it up, then assemble the handle. Then touch up where necessary and clean up epoxy, etc. It's a juggling act for sure, which is why I have to keep my old habits under control.
 
As the soon-to-be very lucky recipient of this knife, I can tell everyone that Lin has been a pleasure to work with from the outset. We live half a country apart, but he may as well have lived right next to me given the outstanding communication between us. Thanks for that, Lin, and thanks for making this beauty for me. I am VERY excited to get this. Also, thanks are in order to Chuck for the photograph at a difficult time when life was no doubt pulling him in other directions.

The knife is off (or soon to be off) to Kenny and Cody Rowe for a sheath that will complete the project. I will try to get a few pics of the two together and post them in this thread for everyone to see. :thumbup:
 
Gorgeous knife, Lin. Like Roger said, the pics make it look a bit smaller. Love it!
 
Lin,

I saw this one on Chuck's flickr site and thought at the time that is was the first full tang of yours that I could remember in a while. I like it! :)It keeps you on your toes doing something for the first time in a while doesn't it?

I like it also that you stacked and did not bookmatch the scales. With the thin butt of the tang, it makes them look like they grew there.

Very nice.

Gary
 
Beautiful knife! I'm with everyone else, that tapered tang really makes it POP. Projects like this keep me up at night thinking, like how to fit that guard. When you fit the guard did you start the taper after the guard or before it? Then there's the ss guard attached to a damascus full tang blade after etching. I think this is a very deceptive knife. It looks simple and clean, but I bet it was a real pain in the butt. Great job in pulling it off.
 
Beautifully done Lin, I like everything about it. This would have been a great canidate for some of that fancy engraving.;) :thumbup::thumbup:

Bill
 
Thank you guys.

Mike, It was tricky getting the fit around the ricasso. I actually started the taper at the front of the guard, allthough I would recommend the back. This required me to file fit it, which I'm used to, but still it would have been easier the other way. I nothed the guard up into the bottom of the ricasso about 1/8 inch and got the fit tight, then pinned the gaurd. The goal is to be able to have no slop at all and make the pin disappear. I got real close. Of course any time you're having to pien a pin on top of finished damascus you're taking a chance.
 
It's tapered from the ricasso forward and from the guard back. That's what I mean. Thanks.
 
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