- Joined
- Jun 4, 2010
- Messages
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Latest project.
My 8yr old boy just earned his "whittling chip" for cub Scouts, now offically allowed to carry and use a knife at all BSA functions. I wanted to get him something that will last and was having a tough time finding a folding knife I felt good about. I favor smaller FB for camp use and carving anyway going back to an incident when I was not much older than my son is now and a slipjoint pounded shut on my finger. Was going to spring for a few Mora Eldris, but cheaped out.
He has a twin sister who also feels very strongly she should be allowed a camping knife as well, since she's done every bit as much camping/ supervised knife handling as her brother. After all, even Mommy has her own camping knife...
I had a couple of Mora classic 2/0 collecting dust, originally had not considered these as candidates. Was reluctant to give them carbon steel for rusting issues, and also wanted a good secure sheath, two areas where the factory plastic sheath is subpar to put it mildly.
I have made a number of leather-in-Kydex sheaths in the past for my own carbon knives and a couple of handguns - it works extremely well and since I had a small sheet of Kydex and all the other items needed, I got to it.
First step is the pattern cut out of leather, hot waxed, folded around the knife and allowed to harden. The wax should permeate the leather - dipping it might be faster, but I tend to just rub it on and melt in with hot air gun. You can also work around the leather while aiming the hot air right at the contact point of wax block and leather. I normally only saturate one side. Flesh/suede side is what will be in contact with the item.
Heat the Kydex and repeat, folding it around the waxed leather just like regular Kydex forming - Kydex done this way does not have the same level of detail. This method also allows for, requires actually, thinner leather and Kydex than either used stand-alone. Another look at my press.
Allow to cool, trim and grind to shape, drill along the open side and I used aluminum nails peened over on one end for rivets. The rivets combined with the inherent hardness of the waxed leather is all that's needed to "bond" the two materials, the waxed leather isn't going anywhere. I put in two extra drill holes to allow for a belt/attachment point.
Finished off with zipper sinnet belt loop that can be worn in or outside the belt - should these still be around when the kids are grown, they come in handy for IWB EDU.
Past experience tells me these will be very resistant to rusting with good, smooth blade retention. And, if anything happens to the knives there's a good chance they'll be able to order replacement 2/0's for the duration. They can also pull the belt loop off and turn it into a neck knife etc, but is a little bulky for that.
A little homely but plenty serviceable. Another something they may not appreciate immediately, but sure will as they get older.
My 8yr old boy just earned his "whittling chip" for cub Scouts, now offically allowed to carry and use a knife at all BSA functions. I wanted to get him something that will last and was having a tough time finding a folding knife I felt good about. I favor smaller FB for camp use and carving anyway going back to an incident when I was not much older than my son is now and a slipjoint pounded shut on my finger. Was going to spring for a few Mora Eldris, but cheaped out.
He has a twin sister who also feels very strongly she should be allowed a camping knife as well, since she's done every bit as much camping/ supervised knife handling as her brother. After all, even Mommy has her own camping knife...
I had a couple of Mora classic 2/0 collecting dust, originally had not considered these as candidates. Was reluctant to give them carbon steel for rusting issues, and also wanted a good secure sheath, two areas where the factory plastic sheath is subpar to put it mildly.
I have made a number of leather-in-Kydex sheaths in the past for my own carbon knives and a couple of handguns - it works extremely well and since I had a small sheet of Kydex and all the other items needed, I got to it.
First step is the pattern cut out of leather, hot waxed, folded around the knife and allowed to harden. The wax should permeate the leather - dipping it might be faster, but I tend to just rub it on and melt in with hot air gun. You can also work around the leather while aiming the hot air right at the contact point of wax block and leather. I normally only saturate one side. Flesh/suede side is what will be in contact with the item.
Heat the Kydex and repeat, folding it around the waxed leather just like regular Kydex forming - Kydex done this way does not have the same level of detail. This method also allows for, requires actually, thinner leather and Kydex than either used stand-alone. Another look at my press.
Allow to cool, trim and grind to shape, drill along the open side and I used aluminum nails peened over on one end for rivets. The rivets combined with the inherent hardness of the waxed leather is all that's needed to "bond" the two materials, the waxed leather isn't going anywhere. I put in two extra drill holes to allow for a belt/attachment point.
Finished off with zipper sinnet belt loop that can be worn in or outside the belt - should these still be around when the kids are grown, they come in handy for IWB EDU.
Past experience tells me these will be very resistant to rusting with good, smooth blade retention. And, if anything happens to the knives there's a good chance they'll be able to order replacement 2/0's for the duration. They can also pull the belt loop off and turn it into a neck knife etc, but is a little bulky for that.
A little homely but plenty serviceable. Another something they may not appreciate immediately, but sure will as they get older.