Can a convex edge be reprofiled to a v grind

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Aug 31, 2015
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I have the Work Sharp so most of my knives have a convex grind. I'll be replacing it with a Wicked Edge soon. So can the convex grind be reprofiled back to a "v" grind? Thanks
 
I have the Work Sharp so most of my knives have a convex grind. I'll be replacing it with a Wicked Edge soon. So can the convex grind be reprofiled back to a "v" grind? Thanks
Hi,
No, it is forbidden, the unconvexing act of 1917 explicitly forbids it, you face 5 years in prison and $10k fine per violation.


yes you can change the edge back to v-grind, if you want, it will happen naturally next time you sharpen with a jigged system
 
Hi,
No, it is forbidden, the unconvexing act of 1917 explicitly forbids it, you face 5 years in prison and $10k fine per violation.


yes you can change the edge back to v-grind, if you want, it will happen naturally next time you sharpen with a jigged system

Hahaha,zomg😂

Alott of knife sharpeners are still serving time.

Grind some sparks for my homies.
 
Is this a serious question ? :confused:
:eek: If you have to ask m . . a . . y . . b . . e you shouldn't be sharpening knives. :eek:

No . . . of course you can change from convex to V
BUT
only twice a year are the planets properly aligned for such a bold and controversial undertaking.
Try this ANY time but these two windows of opportunity and you risk a matter / anti matter explosion that would make the risks they are taking at CERN look like playing in a sand box.

My advice to you is DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME hire a professional.
 
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I have the Work Sharp so most of my knives have a convex grind. I'll be replacing it with a Wicked Edge soon. So can the convex grind be reprofiled back to a "v" grind? Thanks

Yes, you can put a convex edge on a guided system (or do it freehand) and convert it to a V-grind. It will take a bit longer than just sharpening but it'll work fine if it's done completely. That's one of the main reasons some conversions don't work out as well as others, I think. They just don't get fully converted because the person doing the sharpening gets tired of working the edge of the blade into a V-grind. Sometimes there's a good bit of steel to remove if the convex grind is a thick one.
 
Thanks guys. Sorry for asking a stupid question...

Nah man, it's all in good, just some jest :D

This is the place to ask. No worries.

Curious minds must inquire.

Don't feel bad.

You should see some questions I've had a few years back haha
 
Another stupid question mabey. Whats the thinnest with of knife I can sharpen at the lowest angle on the Wicked Edge without the low angle adapter? Thanks really appreciate the help!:)
 
Another stupid question mabey. Whats the thinnest with of knife I can sharpen at the lowest angle on the Wicked Edge without the low angle adapter? Thanks really appreciate the help!:)
I don't think the angles influence the width of blade required for clamping
It goes from 13 to 35 degrees, and low angle clamp gets you down to 10 or 8 degrees with pro pack II
probably 3mm worth of blade in the clamp would work
we_illustration_4.2-300x200.jpg


For comparison, the EdgePal Chef goes from 4-20 degrees (and lower than 4)
 
I have the Work Sharp so most of my knives have a convex grind. I'll be replacing it with a Wicked Edge soon. So can the convex grind be reprofiled back to a "v" grind? Thanks

Shouldn't be a problem. dalefuller hit a key point though. As you get to the very edge, it's often hard to tell when you reach the very edge, and can take a bit of time to get that 'last little bit', so either make sure you create a burr, or mark with a Sharpie and check (with magnification if you can). Unless you also need to reprofile the blade, it also helps to set the angle so you hit the middle of the convex edge.
 
Whats the thinnest with of knife I can sharpen at the lowest angle on the Wicked Edge without the low angle adapter? Thanks really appreciate the help!

Thin doesn't matter, unless you mean distance from spine to edge. The WE is calibrated for an edge that is 5/8" above the clamp, so if it's below that, you'll lose a couple of degrees. If it's a small knife you might need an adapter... I like using the Tormek small knife jig over the WE low angle adapter... but it depends on the knife you're sharpening (for example a long thin knife would do better in the WE 'low angle' jig).
 
Just don't make the mistake of getting rid of the work sharp. I have the work sharp and the KME, they both have there uses. I will add that while I do have the KO work sharp I much prefer the blade grinder attachment and rarely ever use the base work sharp any more.
 
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