Can A Framelock Be Adjusted?

cziv

cziv

Joined
Nov 24, 2005
Messages
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I got my first framelock. A titanium JYD II which is super sharp and an attractive chopper - but I'm having trouble with it. I've had it for 2 days and with each flip of the blade, the framelock digs in deeper and deeper.

I was flipping it yesterday off and on to break it in and noticed this. By the end of the afternoon and into the evening it became a two handed job to pop the framelock loose. If not for the flipper, I'd have lost my thumb trying to disengage it with one hand.

It gets stuck so hard that it'll just about take the meat off any digit trying to shove it aside. I ended up flipping it open last night and then disengaging the lock with a short peice of plastic, used to slide it in and use as a pry bar to pop the lock loose. I couldn't take the pain anymore!

Have you guys got some advice to help me out? Thanks :)
 
My experience has been the same with some of thier product.. Just contact them..
I adjust my framelocks, and liner locks and adjust them to function better.
If your not sure what to do. Just send it in..
 
I was reading a bit on 2 other forums Bill1170 - one knifemaker and other members seemed to imply that a framelock should be hard to disengage for a tactical kind of folder - giving it fixed blade reliablility. They also said for collectible types, i.e. a Sebenza, that they should be easy to open.

This sucker is as solid on lock-up as a fixed blade for sure, but I wanted to play with it as a flipper darnnit! :mad:
 
I adjust my framelocks, and liner locks and adjust them to function better.
Click to expand...

That's what I wanted to know how to do trimcut123? Is it too long to type out how you adjust them? If so, I understand.
 
Many framelocks come from the factory with a bend that only reaches 40% across the lock face ( just an example.) Even customs ive handled.. And some come like a sebbie come where the bend is more extreme..
Take the knife apart see how far the bend in the liner is.. compared to the width of the blade..
My Burke Pro Rockstar came with a bend that would go to about 30% of the tang max after worn in.. Still no blade play and super tight. But thats what you get with super close tolerances.
I adjusted it to about 60% of the blades width.. And It still locks up at about 25%.. And just sticks a tiny bit if you gorrilla grip..
Take it apart and see what you have.. Its just something that you get a feel for after handling numerous higher end framelocks.. My 0300 came the same way as my Rock star.. But the Rockstar is much tighter.. There are too many factors.. No one does it the same.. And in most cases you get what you pay for..
ask away if needed. Bill should have something to say..
 
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Usually I clamp the locking liner or frame on my mill... I use a a piece of plastic with a cut through it to slide over the liner like a sleeve.. I slide it down to the cut out in the lock car and bend away.. You dont need the same setup.. Just do it carefully.. and keep checking out what you have.
I have seen some knives where people just bend away and the lock bar gets rounded.. that would mostly be on liner locks though.
 
cziv said:
I was reading a bit on 2 other forums Bill1170 - one knifemaker and other members seemed to imply that a framelock should be hard to disengage for a tactical kind of folder - giving it fixed blade reliablility. They also said for collectible types, i.e. a Sebenza, that they should be easy to open.
Click to expand...

Strange, I dont think that a frame lock biting really matters that much. If the lock is designed properly then the lock shouldnt slip, and that is without an extreme resistance to disengaging.

On the higher end frame locks Ive owned (Strider, CRK) it's not hard to disengage but there is no slippage. Same goes for liner locks (Emerson, Spyderco, Benchmade).

Personally I would send it back, but I am not experienced in bending lock bars out. Have you tried rubbing some pencil lead on the tang? Youll need to cycle a few times and reapply.
 
an extreme resistance to disengaging
Click to expand...

Is exactly what's going on. My right thumbnail finally split from disengaging it, not too bad thank goodness that's when I hunted down my "plastic pry-bar" last night to save from doing further damage.

I'll try the lead/graphite thing redisburning and see if that helps. Maybe contact the merchant if it doesn't. Thanks! :)
 
cziv said:
Is exactly what's going on. My right thumbnail finally split from disengaging it, not too bad thank goodness that's when I hunted down my "plastic pry-bar" last night to save from doing further damage.

I'll try the lead/graphite thing redisburning and see if that helps. Maybe contact the merchant if it doesn't. Thanks! :)
Click to expand...

It is not supposed to be this way, please send it back to me and I'll get you another.

Dave
 
I will be keeping my JYDII but thank you very much Dave.

I spent a little time tuning things up and in the process it is now working very well. I collect the odd auto-knife here and there and a couple years back Bill DeShivs recommend Quick Release from Latama as the most slippery lube he's run across.

I have a whole shelf of lubes. From Rem-Oil, Miltec-1 right through the list to 3-N-1. I always end up using the Quick Release and find it to be the best.

When my JYD arrived it was kinda dark in the room and I couldn't see how many drops fell into the pivot, but I ended up drowning it. When I took it apart today the clip came off and underneath it was drowning in Quick Release.

Took me about a dozen q-tips to dry most of it out of the pivot and I stuffed small patches of cloth everywhere to soak it up.

The Quick Release was forming a small puddle on the tang where the lock engages and IMO allowed the frame to travel ever so slightly further than it should have.

After repeated opening and drying of this spot, I finally got it back to normal. Now it fires like a rocket and there's no problem disengaging the framelock. I also noticed that it's developing a small scratch pattern on the tang which wasn't there earlier. This further causes me to believe that the frame lock and the tang were barely touching until it had overshot on the lockup.

I appreciate your offer but I'm keeping this puppy. I was just getting ready to PM and let you know. Since you posted into this thread, I think readers should see the knife Dave sold me for a fraction of the going price.

I can't find a blemish on it! Check it out (last post # 247): http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=602230&page=13

Thanks again - problem solved!
 
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