Can anyone confirm Kraton resistant to Petroleum distillates?

Joined
Jan 14, 2007
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1,760
Hey all.

My CV Master Hunter from the 90's has rust under the handle and I plan to neutralize it with WD-40 until I can re-handle it.

I posted about this in more detail here if anyone cares to follow: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1435696-Rust-under-Kraton-handle-Advice

Searches have not resulted in a solid answer, so I'm asking here in the hopes that someone from Cold Steel, or with experience with this, can definitively advise me how the Kraton that CS used on these old knives will hold up to Petroleum distillates.

Thanks!
 
I'd be surprised if kraton would suffer from this, but adhesives used if there are any.......? here to see what cold steel rep can find out for ya......
 
My searches vaguely showed most Kraton grades to be impervious to Petroleum. Ish. . .

Showed WD-40 as safe, save for certain things, like polystyrene. . .

THEN showed the supposedly impervious Kraton to be made from said things.. .


This confusion is compounded by lack of knowledge as to which specific type of Kraton Cold Steel used on my knife. Also compounded by seemingly different grades being used in different time frames.

I wish I could just have Cold Steel either put a new handle on it, or tell me the red rust I see isn't going to destroy my tang.
 
ive been using it on the outside of kraton handles for years, never had any noticable problems
 
I appreciate everyone's input.

Jason, what would you recommend?

Sorry for the late response, almost forgot I posted here.

To start, you must remove as much rust as possible by abrasive grinding or blasting (sandblaster). If abrasive methods cannot be used then chemical methods such as Navel jelly or Metal Rescue can be used. Navel jelly is a jelly acid that eats the rust off the surface and works very well but can be a bit harsh to use. It will burn skin, remove paint and probably not be very friendly to the handle material.

Metal Rescue is a non-toxic rust dissolver, it works well but on light rust but not my first choice on heavy scale rust. The nice thing about MR is it won't hurt anything, won't remove paint or skin and you can pour it down the drain when done. It usually takes a few hours with the part (knife) submerged in the fluid, if left long enough it will put a nice patina on carbon steel too.
 
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