Can G-10 be worked w/ only hand tools?

me2

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Oct 11, 2003
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I have a bug to replace the wooden handles on a kit knife I made with G-10. I'm planning on hand wet sanding the bevels and faces. Is this a reasonable way to go? Can I cut it with a hand saw? How about files? What would be a good grit to finish?
 
Yes you can cut it with a handsaw but it is not to quick.

It hand sands fairly well. I've beveled the edges on the G10 on almost every knife I have made by hand.
 
Yes you can. I find it harder to saw but it sands and files really easily. Use a saw with a blade meant for cutting metal.
 
If I try to pein the pins or flare hollow tubing, will it split? If not, would it be possible to countersink the pin holes and then file them flush after peining? I did this on some brass and the pins are barely visible, just the way I wanted.
 
G10 is very unlikely to split or crack, just not in the nature of the material.

As for grit, it depends on what you want as the end result. I have sanded it down to 800 then taken a buffer to it for a shiny and polished look. It's almost impossible to get it completely texture free without some sort of extra material like a wax or epoxy layer but with buffing you can get it close enough that it's hard to tell. Just going to 400 or 600 gives a nice smooth feel but not slick generally.
 
...would it be possible to countersink the pin holes and then file them flush after peining?

Yes, that works very well. Cutting G10 by hand is a pain but filing, drilling and sanding it is no big deal.
 
I replaced the scales on one of my Gerber folders with G-10. I used a coping saw with fine-tooth blades (20tpi, I think) to cut it, and sandpaper to shape it. Started at 80 and finished at 220 grit. 220 gives a smooth matte finish with a good secure grip.

You could buy everything I used - saw frame, blades, and sandpaper - for about $15 at Lowe's or Home Depot.

Since nobody else has mentioned it, be VERY sure to use a good respirator. Even with hand tools, G-10 raises a lot of dust, and it's way hard on your lungs.
 
I have most of the hand tools already, and the dust issues is the reason for wet sanding. The trick will be to get some coarse wet/dry sandpaper.
 
You can use a file for your rough-shaping, it will be faster than most any sandpaper. 3M wet-dry is available down to 220-grit which is pretty agressive.

You should still wear at least a dust-mask and ventilation, even wet-sanding. You can't be too careful with this stuff.

Dig out an old box fan somewhere and tape a furnace filter to the back to protect the motor. Set it up to suck any stray dust away from you, into the fiter. It's not a pro set-up but it does help.
 
From the sound of things, the G-10 is not worth the hassle to me. How about linen or paper Micarta? Same plan, hand files, wet sanding, maybe a rasp if it will work. It worked beautifully on my wood handle. I was planning on a 400ish grit finish.
 
Paper or linen micarta will certainly make a good handle, and is much less expensive than G10.
 
No matter what material you use, protect your lungs! Even wood dust will cause you problems over time.
 
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