Can I convert a grinder to buffer?

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I have a nice new Sears 8" (I think) grinder and wanted to know if I can take one of the grinding wheels off and use it as a buffer, too? It gets up to 1/3 HP, I think, and I have never used an electric buffer, so any help will be appreciated.
What compounds do I use on wood? Micarta? What type of wheel do I use? What grit do I take the handle to before buffing? How do I do it? Thanks!

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Chiro,
I think we all have done this at one time or another. One problem that you MAY encounter is the speed of the grinder. It is probably 3450 rpm. Some buffing compounds may not stick too well. I would suggest using nothing larger than a 6 inch buffing wheel at that speed. One other thing, don't use the same buffing wheel for more than one buffing compound. Have a specific wheel for each buffing compound. I mark my wheels with a Sharpee or "Magic Marker".

C Wilkins
 
Chiro,

Should work just fine - I have two "buffers": a 1/3hp 3450rpm Sears grinder (probably the one you have), and a 1/2hp 1725rpm Reliant grinder. Just take the guards off, fit some tapered spindles (great time-savers), get your proper safety equipment, and you're good to go. I don't recommend using them as a buffer and a grinder simultaneously, though.

For steel, I use a light grey coarse cutting bar, a dark grey greasy medium cut bar, and a green chrome oxide bar. For handles I have two compounds, called (I think) "White Diamond" and "Miracle White." A scotchbrite wheel is also indispensable for dozens of tasks, from light handle material shaping to a fast satin finish on steel. I've used some other setups, like greaseless brush-on compounds and sisal wheels, and I feel they were a waste of my money. I have some new diamond compunds from Yekim, but haven't given them a try yet - I'll report when I do.

-Drew
 
Only problem I see is you may get grindings in you polish wheels! Small warning: The buffer is the most dangerious tool in your shop!! It can take your part away from you and fling it around your shop in any direction! If your part is a knife.........

Doug
 
I pulled this off of an old post to avoid retyping it, and haven't found any contradictions to date.

If you want to get a decent finish for the true rock bottom dollar, go to Lowes or Home Labyrinth and get 2 black and decker 6 inch sewn cotton buffs for your bench grinder, then go to sears and get a stick of black emery buffing compound, and a stick of white rouge. (you may have to buy the variety pack of compounds, but don't try to use sears buffs) You may have to round up a couple of big washers and drill the center hole the same size as the shaft on your grinder to take up some slack.
Sand to 320 or 400 grit, buff with emery to remove scratches (reapply emery often, if there is not fresh compound on your buff, your just heating up your blade and not removing any scratches) change buffs and use white rouge to get final polish and to shine up your handle material.

This is not a perfect mirror polish, but the total cost is only about $20



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TJ, what's the matter with sears buffs? I just bought a 6" buff at sears, but it was a Disco brand are these ok?
 
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