Can I cut 1/8" to 3/16" 1084 on bandsaw at 288 sfm? (until I can afford HF saw)

Fitzhugh

Fitzhugh

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Feb 5, 2013
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I've found various numbers stated for steel cutting bandsaw sfm speeds, all seem to range under 200 sfm, often much lower. I know the HF bandsaw is only $89 on sale right now but that is $89 I can't justify at this time (nor afford, as I spent all my tool money on woodworking stuff). I've also read that wood bandsaws are not necessarily built rigidly enough for converting to steel cutting. I don't know if that applies so much to thinner stock.

I have a shopsmith bandsaw and the speed reducer they make so my rpm drops to 100. With no pulleys and an 11" wheel I get around 288 sfm. I do have a high tension hacksaw that I've had luck with but it is far from fun, and I hate using a cutoff wheel. If I can use a proper blade at around 288 sfm for the occasional knife I'll be thrilled.

Having never cut metal on a bandsaw I don't have a sense whether this would be...
A) a disaster. Won't work.
B) a dangerous disaster. It'll seem like it's working just long enough to get you to relax and then start eating fingers, eyes, etc.
C) a pain but passable for the occasional cuts.
D) not that bad if done carefully.
E) "all yall are full of crap and I know better, it won't be any problem cause secretly I KNOW I'm a knife making ninja master, bro, and I can just do ANYTHING I want if I just try har... oh hold on, just got fragged,can't tpye and shoot at the same time... ok respawned. I thought the doc said rit'lin would help that. ok respawned. oH, what whas I saying? Oh yeah, that I'm CRAP I JUST SPILLED MY MONSTER/REDBULL/COUGH SYRUP COCKTAIL ON MY CAT, um, whatever. Not sure why I'm even asking cause I got skilz you never dreamed of, I just haven't actually, you know, used them yet. Though I did carve a katana out of a stick at camp once or twice. or maybe 20 times. And there were those throwing stars I made out of mom's cookie sheets... HOLD STILL Kitty! Hey, YOU lick you all the time, why can't I? Just let me get that off you. Seriously you dumb cat, that's the last of the codiene syrup..."


Thanks!
 
Get a proper Bi-metal blade. Lennox or Morse that are made in the USA and try it?

For a once in a while cut of bar stock it may work but the blade won't last that long. Try to dress it with candle wax every 1/4-1/2" cut. Just briefly touch any candle to the teeth side of the blade.

if you want to do this with any volume, get the HF Bandsaw and put a Bi-metal on it.
 
It just may work, I use my HF full size at the top speed 200 fpm and it is fine, 288 could be ok. I suggest getting finer blades, such as 18-32 tpi, the metal just rips the teeth off the others. I guess the other question is can you get a length (could be custom ordered) that you need, and will your bandsaw handle a 1/2 inch wide blade, that is typical for metal although there may be narrower ones out there.

I suggest buying a cheap blade and give it a try, get a few blanks cut and then invest in a good blade.

BTW I would not waste the $$on the portable, I never got mine to work right. I have the larger one, and it works fine. Go to their sidewalk sales and they always have them I think I paid about $150.

Not sure why I knew you were from Bizerkly before seeing your profile, but it seemed likely.
 
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Point E is absolutely hilarious. I use a Dewalt portaband and couldn't be happier, so have nothing of value to add except write more.
 
Yeah, I'm not sure why PatrickKnives had a problem with his portaband, but my HF has cut mega amounts of metal, blade and otherwise. It's a great investment.
 
Thank you all, great help as always here, enough I almost never end up having to ask something because it's almost always already been answered (and answered and answered...). I think I'll give it a try once I get the right blade in. Haven't looked yet for one of the right length but as said, band saw blades can always be bought custom lengths.

Btw, the Shopsmith bandsaw is a great saw, though not big at around 7" resaw capacity (assuming you file off some unnecessary metal to gain an inch). It can take blades 5/8 wide, odd, I know. It has a different tracking system than other bandsaws, with flat wheel profiles, a slightly canted to wheel, and bearings to actively guide the tracking against the back of the blade on a few additional spots. Once I found a detail post on tuning it it's been amazing.

Not that anyone asked, but my take on the Shopsmith: fantastic quality construction (I fell in love with it when I took it completely apart to refurbish/clean/derust it), super cheap used, wonderful for a tiny space and budget, and yes, I would love to never have to use it as a table saw again but I'm sure glad I can until I can afford and fit one. Changing tools only bothers me when I have to lift the very heavy planer off and swap it with the very heavy jointer or rather heavy bandsaw, but then I remind myself I got a truly great planer and bandsaw, large capacity drill press, 12" disk sander, awkward (too high...) table saw, some ways nice (capacity, variable speed) some ways not nice (too low, crappy stock tool rest, not slow enough low speed for big bowls) lathe, horizontal boring machine and a while second base unit all four just $250 off CL.... and there is no way I could afford decent separate machines for that even if I could fit them. I found a near new condition jointer on CL for $75 (after returning the broken, Pitted, incomplete "like new, hardly used, excellent condition" one off eBay for 200 including shipping, so luck and patience has played a role), and got the speed reducer for almost what I paid for the two units and bandsaw, planer etc.

For woodworkers it can be great if it fits right. For knife makers it has some flaws: the lowest speed is only 700rpm (100 w/ the speed reducer) bit fast for drilling metal, pre mid 80s have too much runout unless you change to a later version quill (just got mine in mail, add another $80).
It also has some great aspects... The conical sanding disk only touches in a narrow band so no swirls and can joint and thickness plane stuff you'd never want to put through a planer or jointer, either because of the material dulling or chipping the knives or because of year out from nice figured, burley grain. I've wondered about the belt grinder attachment, if it could be a useful knife grinder, but haven't looked into it and don't have one.
Bottom line, not the right setup for the wood side of primarily making knives, but not awful.
Anyhow, I wrote all that knowing it won't be of much interest to you all who responded but it just might help someone searching later.

Thanks again, will post results...
 
My porta band never worked right, there is a lot of variation in quality. I know with their angle grinder, tungsten lamps and other tools I usually buy two, that way I always have a backup. The blade never tracked correctly and when I had a chance to buy the full size pretty cheap I jumped. I have seen a lot of people use the porta band successfully so my experience does not seem typical.

BTW, I have a 6 tpi that I use for micarta, carbon fiber and other synthetics, these seem to burn up my wood bandsaw blades but the slower speed works well with these materials.
 
Get a bi metal band saw blade. I have no trouble cutting pattern. The one I got is Haltbar blade and lennox
 
Hey guys is a porter-cable port-a-band for 150 used a good deal? I saw one in a local pawn shop, that's why I ask...
Maybe it wasn't a porter cable, but I think it was...
 
the porta-band is a good saw, but i dont think its made any more. so buying parts in the future might be a problem. we had one at my work and it was nice untill the armature went out on it.
 
Ok, so the pawn shop in question has a Milwaukee portable band saw, not a porter cable, and it's 199, not 150... What do you guys think? Worth the money? It looks pretty beat up...
 
I picked up a Milwaukee on Ebay refurbished for $149 shipped I believe the MW is better then the PC JMHO.
 
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