Can I disassemble a Buck?

Joined
Jul 9, 1999
Messages
259
Is there any way to take apart a Buck 110? I've got an old one here that has been severely damaged - the wood is in bad shape, the rest of it has some nasty rust, and between 1/4 and 1/2 inch has been broken off the end of the blade. I've managed to remove the lock and the pin that holds it in, but I'm having trouble with the rest. Any tips on how to get it apart and back together?
 
Don't know which model of 110 you have but the takedown sequence, for me, is:

Drive out the front pin

Then grind the ends down on the rocker to drive it out [be really careful or you'll end up making new scales!]

Then drive out the two rear pins.

I usually start with a larger nail set to get the pins started then switch to a regular drive punch.

You will need to get some pin stock exactly the right size for reassembly.

Can I ask why you are doing this?

If you send the knife to Buck with $5 for return postage they will put it back into really good condition. They come with a lifetime guarantee that Buck honors as well as anyone in the world.

Good Luck!

Dave Evans
Tenino, WA



------------------
Proud Member:
Buck Collector's Club
American Knife and Tool Institute
North West Knife Club
Oregon Knife Collectors Association

ukclogo.jpg

UsedKnife.Com
 
George,
Try it without the cold Bud in one hand, it's easier with two hands. Speaking from experience of course.
Tom
 
I got it... Unfortunately, the knife didn't survive. It cracked at a thin spot in the handle, tore about half way across...
frown.gif


Guess it's time to buy another knife! LOL
 
Which part broke? If it was just the scales or a liner then your still in pretty good shape. You can make a new liner pretty easily as long as you've got a hacksaw, drill press ( a drill press works best you could use a hand drill if you had too) and either a belt sander or just a file and some sandpaper. You can buy brass sheet stock from any of the knife supply houses for fairly cheap.I think lowes even carries along with copper for flashing and welding grade steel, its with the fasteners I think.
As long as the blade, locking bar and backspring are still in tact you can make a new handle, it would be even easier if you could re use the back spacer and bolsters. Then its just a matter of cutting stuff out, drilling some holes ( you can use the original liners and the other parts to lay them out) and pinning it all back together.
 
Back
Top