Can i give a becker necker a more acute edge ?

[Kevin the grey]

I was given a becker necker and I have been putting it through its paces . Loits of chopping , battoning and I even took down a small tree with it . The blade is shaving sharp and fairly easy to bring back after an afternoons work . I tried whittling with it or even scraping with it and it fought me all the way . It has a thick blade with a flat grind and a very obtuse edge . Is this edge obtuse to make up for a softer steel or is it just an edge designed to survive rough work ? I would like to make the angle slightly more acute and use it as a second bevel of a 15 degree edge . I want a camp tool that is a bit more versatile as to scraping or whittling handles and what-not .Am I on the right track ?

 

[kevtan]

yup, did the same to mine. Cut so much better. Just leave some meat behind the edge bevel. Or if u have access to a belt grinder, tryn to convex it.

 

[Cliff Stamp]

Is this edge obtuse to make up for a softer steel or is it just an edge designed to survive rough work ?

If you focus on cutting you will find most knives can be vastly reduced, Spyderco is the exception as some of their knives are 9-11 degrees per side, few people tend to reprofile a Calypdo Jr. Cut the edge way back for the type of work you are describing. Even 15 degrees per side is more obtuse than necessary on a knife of that size for wood work. Since the knife is so small you might want to try lowering the primary grind rather than just applying a relief grind.

-Cliff

 

[Jeff Clark]

The first thing I did with mine was to reduce the edge bevel. Mine is probably 10 degrees per side. The alloy is not soft and can take a low angle.

 

[gud4u]

I don't think chopping and batoning were the intent of the design of the Becker Necker, but the steel is just fine.

I used included angles of 20 degrees for main bevel and 25 degrees for micro-bevel, which holds up very well for general slicing.

Hope this helps!

 

[Kevin the grey]

gud4u do you use that angle on a becker ?

Thanks Jeff that is just what I wanted to know .

 

[Dreamer]

For someone who is sharpening challenged, how would I go about doing this?

 

[Cliff Stamp]

Grind it off with a really coarse stone. You don't need to be very precise, you are just shaping. You can apply a suitable final micro-bevel with a jig or v-rod system.

-Cliff

 

[gud4u]

Actually, I've found that the 20/25 bevel/microbevel is just about optimum for general slicing with most of my blades. I just broaden the microbevel a bit for softer blades.

I hand hone. Angles can be estimated from a simple protractor, or use the cosecant function and a ruler to construct the precise angle if you're math-inclined.

Use a coarse-grit hone or abrasive paper for main bevel formation, since you'll be removing a lot of metal.

I really use the Becker Necker rarely. It seemed like a good idea at the time, but it's uncomfortable for EDC tasks and the Spyderco Ronin is my choice for neck-carry.

Hope this helps!

 

[Kevin the grey]

I agree the becker is a challenge as far as ergonomics are concerned . I am going to flesh uot the handle a bit . I do like the robust blade if only for its potential . I am learning to baton and wedge . While the short length gives a challenge the stoutness of the blade reassures me . In other words you can really give it a whack .