I know they sell leather for strops, but I've got an old weight lifting belt that I no longer use and was wondering if I could cut that up or whether it'd be too hard and stiff. The way everyone says how leather convexes a bit under the knife makes me think that strop leather is soft. This lifting belt is as hard as thick cardboard and I can't see it convexing much when backed with a wooden paddle.
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Can I use weightlifting belt leather for strop?
- Thread starter Grapevine
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IIRC there was a member here on BFC with the handle lifter4him (or similar) who did just that, and actually starting making strops for others after a while, I believe. So I assume it works pretty well.
It's not the thickness or quality of leather that I'm concerned about, but the "give" of the leather. The leather on this weightlifting belt feels as hard as the leather used to make soles for shoes. Its surface isn't likely to give under just the weight of the knife when used for stropping, so I'm not sure if it's of much use for convex sharpening touchup. I can see where such hard leather will polish a V-edge, which would be how Bob Dozier would be using it. I'm more interested in using it to maintain a convex edge and grind.
It makes me wonder if people who use similar hard leather are getting their convex edges not because of the leather surface giving under so much as because they're stropping freehand so they don't get the same angle after each stroke, just like how people say sharpening freehand on a stone will often give you a convex edge.
It makes me wonder if people who use similar hard leather are getting their convex edges not because of the leather surface giving under so much as because they're stropping freehand so they don't get the same angle after each stroke, just like how people say sharpening freehand on a stone will often give you a convex edge.
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The leather is not going to provide much give unless its being suppended in the air. Its not important to me or you how much give there is in any material used, what is important is that you adjust according to what ever is used. If you want more convex use a mouse pad, and if you want less, use something harder.
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the harder leather would be better. too much contouring of the leather at the contact with the edge would allow the strop to ripple behind the edge as you drag it, rounding it off. You can create a convex edge sharpening on inflexible benchstones, maintaining it on even the stiffest leather would be easy.
nozh2002
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Harder is better. If it visible bend under edge 0 it will round it out and you will not have sharp edge. If it as hard as cardboard - you should at least try it. Use green rouge to load it.
Thanks, Vassili.
Okay, I'll try it out. Thanks guys.
Roger999, it's a good belt, but I haven't used it in 10 years and don't plan on using it as a lifting belt in the future, so it might as well be good for something else. I started working out without wearing belts, gloves, or knee wraps 10 years ago when some experienced people convinced me that in the long run you'll get stronger lifting "raw." And whatdayaknow, they were right!
Roger999, it's a good belt, but I haven't used it in 10 years and don't plan on using it as a lifting belt in the future, so it might as well be good for something else. I started working out without wearing belts, gloves, or knee wraps 10 years ago when some experienced people convinced me that in the long run you'll get stronger lifting "raw." And whatdayaknow, they were right!
A good belt is worth more than a couple of strops, atleast use a belt when deadlifting and squatting as most people cannot keep intra abdoiminal pressure without a belt, it can help prevent injury. Belts, and knee wraps are still considered raw, except knee wraps with a few PLing associations, bench shirts, and squat suits are equipped lifting . You can buy some thick leather very cheaply.
The weight lifting belt will work. But so will your jeans, a Sears catalog cover, or a piece of shirt cardboard. All these will work, but not as well as a good, well made strop. Use the outside of the belt as it will be harder than the inside.
The real purpose of using leather is the natural silicates in the hide. Horsehide has more than cowhide and works better. Veggie tanned leather retains more silicates than oil or chrome tanned leather. The surface of the leather can be either hard or soft as each serves a different function. Soft used with a lower grit compound followed by hard used with a high grit compound. If you want a really good 'finishing' strop to use with chromium oxide, take ordinary veggie tanned hide, "case" it, (wet it down with a diluted mix of windshield washer liquid, put it in a plastic bag over night, take it out the next morning and let it dry until it is no longer 'squishiy' but still moldable like clay,) then roll the hell out of it with a heavy rolling pin! A marble one works best. Roll it for about 20 minutes, then let it dry completely. When dry give it a gentle coat of leather conditioner, (don't soak!) then coat with compound. If you can get good horsehide, don't use it with compound! Use it bare as the final finishing strop.
Stitchawl
The real purpose of using leather is the natural silicates in the hide. Horsehide has more than cowhide and works better. Veggie tanned leather retains more silicates than oil or chrome tanned leather. The surface of the leather can be either hard or soft as each serves a different function. Soft used with a lower grit compound followed by hard used with a high grit compound. If you want a really good 'finishing' strop to use with chromium oxide, take ordinary veggie tanned hide, "case" it, (wet it down with a diluted mix of windshield washer liquid, put it in a plastic bag over night, take it out the next morning and let it dry until it is no longer 'squishiy' but still moldable like clay,) then roll the hell out of it with a heavy rolling pin! A marble one works best. Roll it for about 20 minutes, then let it dry completely. When dry give it a gentle coat of leather conditioner, (don't soak!) then coat with compound. If you can get good horsehide, don't use it with compound! Use it bare as the final finishing strop.
Stitchawl