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Can it be done?
- Thread starter tgw914
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2005
- Messages
- 206
The short answer-Yes.
If you're willing to spend the time. What I've done to handle the knives I've made is nearly all with hand toold. After marking the tang outline on the lumber, I cut it out a little oversized with a coping saw. then I drill holes for the pins (power drill). Using pins to hold the handle material in place, I use files (half round and flat) to bring the handle down to match the tang. Noext comes the glue up. Once that is dry, it takes just a little shaping and sanding before the handle is ready for a finish (linseed oil or beeswax here).
If you're willing to spend the time. What I've done to handle the knives I've made is nearly all with hand toold. After marking the tang outline on the lumber, I cut it out a little oversized with a coping saw. then I drill holes for the pins (power drill). Using pins to hold the handle material in place, I use files (half round and flat) to bring the handle down to match the tang. Noext comes the glue up. Once that is dry, it takes just a little shaping and sanding before the handle is ready for a finish (linseed oil or beeswax here).
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2000
- Messages
- 5,179
Short answer: drill press.
You might be able to find one of the old hand drill holders that made an okay expedient drill press. I'm not sure those are being made any more but the one I had was pretty handy for a kid. Sears had em and who knows, they might still. HF has benchtop drill presses for about $60. Or, just do like I used to: drill carefully. Use a slightly larger bit than your pins - #30 for 1/8" or L for 1/4".
You might be able to find one of the old hand drill holders that made an okay expedient drill press. I'm not sure those are being made any more but the one I had was pretty handy for a kid. Sears had em and who knows, they might still. HF has benchtop drill presses for about $60. Or, just do like I used to: drill carefully. Use a slightly larger bit than your pins - #30 for 1/8" or L for 1/4".
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2002
- Messages
- 934
With good epoxy glue and a stick tang you don't have to have pins.
If your new you may not know of the shoe shine method.
By some caorse emery tape 1 or 2 inches wide about 3 feet long. Hold the handle in a vice or what ever. put the emery it over the handle and pull up and down like a shoe shine move the emery along the handle and different angles.
If you don't have files or rasps use the same emeru or what ever sand paper you have wrap it along a broom handle or other rod and that gets into the tight curves.
If your new you may not know of the shoe shine method.
By some caorse emery tape 1 or 2 inches wide about 3 feet long. Hold the handle in a vice or what ever. put the emery it over the handle and pull up and down like a shoe shine move the emery along the handle and different angles.
If you don't have files or rasps use the same emeru or what ever sand paper you have wrap it along a broom handle or other rod and that gets into the tight curves.
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2004
- Messages
- 3,041
This handle was done with almost 100% hand tools. I finished it with a dremel, but nothing on it couldnt have been done with a half round file, a drill and sandpaper. The holes should be straight but as long as they are bookmatched, you are good to go. Drilling straight holes without a drill press isn't easy, though...Ive seen handheld drill guides at lowes for like 40$, i believe....but if youre going to pay 40, check craigslist or eaby and you could pick up a used tabletop drill press for that much, i'd bet. Otherwise, find a block of wood or metal that you know already has straight holes and just drill down those holes and through your materials.
Heres the handle that was 99% hand tooled....
Heres the handle that was 99% hand tooled....
- Joined
- Jun 28, 2005
- Messages
- 206
tgw914 said:
I worry more about the holes lining up than straight (true). To achieve lined up holes, I drill them in the tang first. Then, with one slab secured to the tang (think clamp not glue), I drill one hole and put a temporary pin in to keep it lined up while I drill the other hole in that slab. Using that slab and the tang as a guide for one hole with on pin in the other, I drill the first hole in the other slab. Then us a pin to hold that hold in line, I drill the other hole. I generall get the holes close to true, but more importantly, I keep all the holes lined up. And by cutting the handle a little over size, I have a little play room if needed.
This would be easier to show in person, that explaination seem a bit convoluted to me.