"Can Ole Pen do a mirror finish too?" or "Uncle, thanks for the bent tip!"

Daniel Koster

Daniel Koster

www.kosterknives.com
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Oct 18, 2001
Messages
20,978
In the "looking for a sword" thread I posted a while back, Sarge made a comment about leaving the blade bright and shiny. That got me thinking that maybe because I did only satin finishes on the CD, perhaps folks were concerned that a mirror polish is too "out of reach".

Well, let's hope this thread puts and end to that myth. :D

If I can do it - anybody can.

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Ok, for starters, I forgot to take any "before" pics, so you'll have to put up with a short story first.


I was in the process of negotiating a trade or "loan" with a generous forum member when Uncle stepped in a sent me a Patang. It arrived on Saturday morning. I opened the package and unsheathed it - what a beautiful short sword! Then, much to my delight, I saw that it had a significant bend in the tip ~ around 1/4" long.

That was all I needed to see to know that this usurp everything else and become the #1 project on my list that day. So, I set to work. Here's a list of mods:

1. Straightened the tip at the grinder
2. Reground edge - convex edge now.
3. Refinished blade on sander and buffer to a mirror polish (more on this in a minute)
4. Sanded handle down
5. New "wiping oil" finish (again, more later)
6. Sharpened to a razor edge
7. Coated with Briwax (blade and handle)

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Ok, now an explanation for #3.

The reason I ground a new edge was that this one came with a few "waves" that I wanted to get out. Plus swords like convex edges. ;) So, I started with a 60 grit and worked my way up the entire scale: 120, 180, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, ending on a felt belt loaded w/ compound. I use this process on every "project" even when I'm doing a satin or handrubbed finish. There are still scratches on the blade at this point and the polish is just a bit cloudy. It's the next step that really makes it shine. A sisal cloth wheel loaded with white compound. I don't have a buffer (don't want one, either). I use the wheel in my variable speed drill press so I can turn the speed down to a safe RPM. Takes about 5 minutes of buffing.

Magic polish restored!

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Explanation for #5

I explained most of the process in another thread that ept777 started. Bascially it involves sanding along the grain instead of against it, and then ending at the buffing wheel with white compound.

However, I left off the formula for the finish. First, let me say that I do not like TruOil for knife handles. Instead, I use a combination of Tung Oil, Boiled Linseed Oil and Acetone (2:1:1). Each time I put a coat on, I immediately wipe off the excess. I put on the next coat as soon as the first one dries. At first, this is about every 15-30 minutes. Then it lengthens out to a day or more. When it reaches this point, I stop and let it dry for a couple of days. I then make a decision about whether or not I wanted a hard "final finish" on it. If so, I clean it with a cloth dampened with acetone, then coat it with either a satin or glossy "wipe-on" polyurethane finish (available at Home Depot, etc.). This does wonders for waterproofing the wood and making a solid final finish.


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So where's the proof?


Glad you asked...;)
 
Pic of the finished Patang (yes...that's an ironing board...:rolleyes: )

patang.jpg




The new handle. I worked it down about 1/8" on each side to get it flush (more or less) with the brass collar.

handlework.jpg




The beautifully carved guard.

carvedguard.jpg




In creating the convex edge, I lost about 1/8" near the bolster. (Incidently, the scratches you see are from cutting a 2x4 in half in several different locations of the blade - all to test sharpness and edge retention).

edgeloss.jpg




Mirror Polish. So easy to do - it's pitiful. Just rub the blade back and forth on the buffing wheel loaded with white compound. I specifically positioned myself with the camera so that you could see me in the convex part of the edge - again, just to illustrate the point...:p

edgepolish.jpg




Nice mirror polish in the blade.

mirrorpolish.jpg




The handle with its new finish. It's at the "taking a 2 days to dry" stage. I may or may not put a polyurethane finish on it - we'll have to see. Incidently, when it came to me, it had a dull brown finish on it. Now you can see it has a vibrant and splendid reddish, orangish, and brownish glow!

newhandlefinish.jpg
 
kind of a before pic...
(from the website)

patang1.JPG



Points to illustrate:

1 - it's not readily apparant from the photo that this is a single edged sword (not double edged).

2 - the handle above has a swell right before the bolster - too big for my chunky hand.

3 - difference in color/tone in the handle



I'm toying around with the idea of adding filework to the spine. Any opinions? My reasoning would be that it would help distinguish it as a single-edged sword.

Dan
 
Nice work Dan, not surprising, but nice nonetheless.:D When somebody at a RenFest/Medieval reenactment asks you what it is, and you say "Patang", and they say "what?", just smile and say "Poignard".;)

Sarge
 
Nice work Dan.:D

With those detailed instructions, I think you've got to be an engineer. If not, you should be.

Steve
 
You know Dan, when I read your two-titled post, my head was suddenly swimming with memories of Rocky and Bullwinkle cartoons.

Were these in your mind when you posted? :)
 
Dan
Could you give us the make and model of the sander that you use for the sanding belts?

Also where do you order that sisal cloth wheel from and what size wheel?

CB
 
This is the sander I use:

delta-tools_1752_6036078


I order my belts from Discount Abrasives in Ohio:

http://www.geocities.com/discount_abrasives/index.html

Oops! I meant to say "muslin" - not sisal. Got it from Texas Knifemakers Supply:


BUF01.jpg


I think there's a video of my doing some buffing on the Sharpening CD - check it out.

Oh yeah, the sander is on there too...;)


If you have a buffer, just mount it to it. I don't have a buffer, so I rigged up a contraption to mount it to my drill press. (which is what you see on the CD).

Dan
 
Originally posted by pendentive .......I do not like TruOil for knife handles.

I'm toying around with the idea of adding filework to the spine. My reasoning would be that it would help distinguish it as a single-edged sword.
Click to expand...
#1 Why not TruOil?

#2 I can't see it.
I would visualize something along the line of a fuller
or a graved line (like small khuks).

Or. Maybe etchwork.

How far down would you go?
How about a pic of patang with "filework" edited in?

Or, maybe use one on the Brownell bluing -pens-
to mark the pattern on to test the look.

For that matter, I guess a black/blue Sharpie would do.

Come to think of it:
attachment.php

etch4.JPG
 
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