Can someone give me a one - piece hand ax advice?

[Truelove]

I have been thinking deep thoughts about making a one - piece hand ax, the kind where the head, neck and handle are all made from a flat hunk - o - steel and has scales for a handle. As always, I have no experience in making my dreams become a reality and, as always, I come to you for help .

What thickness you you use?

What do you think are good handle v. blade dimensions?

Any special tricks to foil any inherent bug-a-boos (maybe one to lessen hand shock?)

Any pics for inspiration?

Thanks!

 

[Pipeman]

The only thing I can help you with is this. I turned this huge cleaver into a bush chopper. It had wooden handles on it originally that vibrated very badly so I put two layers of shoe sole leather on each side and it cut the vibration down to almost nothing. The leather was about 3/8th of an inch thick on each side.

Regards

Robin

[/url][/IMG]

[/url][/IMG]

 

[XanRa]

That's awesome pipeman

 

[HandAxeProMan]

Check with your closest Condor dealer. Condor's Battle Axe, Double Bit Combat Axe and Double Bit Throwing Axe are all constructed from one solid piece of metal. The Double Bit Throwing Axe comes without scales so you can leave as is or add whatever scales you want. Seeing them should give you the info you are looking for.

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

For what it's worth I think the handles on those particular Condor models could use some work. That unflared taper really just doesn't seem that secure to me.

 

[wnease]

reduce handle vibration by making the head heavier relative to handle, also longer from edge to back, and reducing the space between tension and compression zones in the handle shaft (to create a vibration isolation zone)... also like Robin says use squishy materials to dampen (though to me that's dead weight) vibration

I use tools to smash and cut rock daily, so I've learned a thing or too about what vibration will do, also a 1000cc sportbike (oh my hands are white)

Stock thickness can really be anything for the cut-out-of-plate style

 

[FortyTwoBlades]

reduce handle vibration by making the head heavier relative to handle, also longer from edge to back, and reducing the space between tension and compression zones in the handle shaft (to create a vibration isolation zone)... also like Robin says use squishy materials to dampen (though to me that's dead weight) vibration

I use tools to smash and cut rock daily, so I've learned a thing or too about what vibration will do, also a 1000cc sportbike (oh my hands are white)

Stock thickness can really be anything for the cut-out-of-plate style

Couldn't say it better. Quoted for truth. :thumbup:

 

[foxx]

I have two, one-piece "hatchets". One is really for hunting, and it's 3/16" thick (head/handle) The other is the Ontario RD Hawk, 1/4" thick.
Seems like you are talking about making an Axe, ala Estwing, but with scales? Is that correct, you want your head to be thicker than the handle shaft?
Either way, the ones I have aren't good for chopping wood. Length is a big part, but also the weight of the head is too light. Fine for what they were disigned to do, but no good as a wood tool.
I know the Eswings have a soft shaft, and those rubberized handles for the shock, and it works. Full tang with handle scales can often send the shock right into one's hand, at least in large choppers, and my RD Hawk.
Seems like wnease has some great input on axe design, for a vibration isolation zone. I find that my Swamp Rat Waki can take the vibrations, even though it's a full tang w/ micarta scales. It must be the length, thickness, and HT, either way it does a great job.

 

[joshuabl]

Here is my Swamp Rat Crash Axe. Not sure if this is what you are considering, but its one piece.