Can someone help me identify this William Henry?

[shane]

I bought this several years ago and just recently found it in the back of my safe. All I know is that it is a William Henry with carbon fiber scales and I believe the steel is ATS-34. Any ideas about a model number and value? Thanks,

shane

 

[J. Doyle]

I think it's an early T10 lancet model.

 

[shane]

Thank you, that sounds familiar. I think you are correct.

 

[betzner]

Actually the full model number would be T10-CF (for carbon fibre) Lancet.............

 

[J. Doyle]

Actually the full model number would be T10-CF (for carbon fibre) Lancet.............

That's right.

I had the largest spearpoint with the black DLC blade. You wouldn't happen to know what that full number was do you?

 

[betzner]

Hi, John, that would be a T12BT (for Black & Tan, as I recall) Spearpoint

Bob

 

[betzner]

I've owned both the T12 and currently carry a T10CF every day. These things are so light you don't know they're in your pocket.

 

[J. Doyle]

I've owned both the T12 and currently carry a T10CF every day. These things are so light you don't know they're in your pocket.

Thanks Bob. Yep....black and tan....that's right.

It was my very first high end knife. I thought I was crazy to spend $300 on a knife. When it arrived, I was initially afraid it was delicate, almost flimsy. In short order I discovered I was wrong and was amazed at how capable and durable it was, yet thin and light at the same time.

Very well made. Wish I had it back.

 

[betzner]

The linerlocks are the only WHs I know anything about. And all of the carbon fibre T models are just super knives for the pocket.

I have never, and never will, buy a William Henry buttonlock. Just not the same at all after they made the change from linerlock........

 

[J. Doyle]

The linerlocks are the only WHs I know anything about. And all of the carbon fibre T models are just super knives for the pocket.

I have never, and never will, buy a William Henry buttonlock. Just not the same at all after they made the change from linerlock........

Totally agree. My wife has a button lock and it just isn't the same.

 

[betzner]

Only about three weeks ago, I grabbed another William Henry T model. The only time I usually buy a WH is when I have lost one. But I saw this little one (2 1/4" blade, 6" OAL), a T08-P-A (for Persian, Amber), pic below. I never liked this model, it is sooo small, but when I saw this one, I had to have it...........

 

[J. Doyle]

Only about three weeks ago, I grabbed another William Henry T model. The only time I usually buy a WH is when I have lost one. But I saw this little one (2 1/4" blade, 6" OAL), a T08-P-A (for Persian, Amber), pic below. I never liked this model, it is sooo small, but when I saw this one, I had to have it...........

View attachment 1744239

That IS nice! I don't blame you for grabbing that. I like that engraving a lot.

 

[shane]

What a great looking knife. Nice score.

 

[tiguy7]

I bought this several years ago and just recently found it in the back of my safe. All I know is that it is a William Henry with carbon fiber scales and I believe the steel is ATS-34. Any ideas about a model number and value? Thanks,

shane

The pocket clip on this model is attached with 2 #0X80TPI screws that are anchored in HeliCoils. I have 2 of this model, but they are both button locks. I swiped the Gold plated hardware off 1 of them to put on a B-15. Top knife in each photo.View attachment 1744514View attachment 1744513

 

[brownshoe]

I like their button and liner locks. What irks you about button locks?

 

[betzner]

I like their button and liner locks. What irks you about button locks?

Wish I could put it into words what irks me about the button locks, but can't. I just don't like anything about the looks of the William Henry button locks, so perhaps it is more the overall appearance (whether hi end or not) that I don't like.

 

[J. Doyle]

I like their button and liner locks. What irks you about button locks?

I can give you my perspective as well, if you're interested.

On my wife's WH button lock, from a functional standpoint, the button has VERY little engagement on the blade tang when locked. Yet even still, the button has to be pushed very far to release the lock (almost down past flush in the scale). I wouldn't say it's difficult to unlock but it is noticeable. The knife has never failed to lock and maybe (likely) it never will but I'd like to see a bit more engagement.

The things that bother me more than the above are visual/aesthetic issues. On this model, there is a stop pin for the open position, a separate stop pin for the closed position, the lock post itself then they put a standoff right next to the closed stop pin. So there are 4 posts/pins visible in the frame in less than 1 inch of space. It looks like a cluttered mess.

Also, they use the button post as the "detent" retention when the knife is closed which requires that the tang of the blade be ground/ramped very asymmetrically. I understand it needs to be that way to work but it looks terrible to my eye.

Now for feel...it's harder to explain. Both are smooth but there is just something extra special about an ultra smooth liner lock riding on a slick ball bearing then having that blade tang fall off the ball bearing which propels the blade forward that last little bit to let the lock snap over into place. You get a smoothness you can feel and the feeling and sound combined of that back-to-back double "click/click" (barely perceptible as two separate sounds if done properly) of the lock opening. There's nothing like it.

I know that sounds a little vague and mystical, maybe corny but it's the best I can do.

betzner has some WH knives and I believe a Don Hanson or two so I bet he knows exactly what I'm referring to.

 

[betzner]

I can give you my perspective as well, if you're interested.

On my wife's WH button lock, from a functional standpoint, the button has VERY little engagement on the blade tang when locked. Yet even still, the button has to be pushed very far to release the lock (almost down past flush in the scale). I wouldn't say it's difficult to unlock but it is noticeable. The knife has never failed to lock and maybe (likely) it never will but I'd like to see a bit more engagement.

The things that bother me more than the above are visual/aesthetic issues. On this model, there is a stop pin for the open position, a separate stop pin for the closed position, the lock post itself then they put a standoff right next to the closed stop pin. So there are 4 posts/pins visible in the frame in less than 1 inch of space. It looks like a cluttered mess.

Also, they use the button post as the "detent" retention when the knife is closed which requires that the tang of the blade be ground/ramped very asymmetrically. I understand it needs to be that way to work but it looks terrible to my eye.

Now for feel...it's harder to explain. Both are smooth but there is just something extra special about an ultra smooth liner lock riding on a slick ball bearing then having that blade tang fall off the ball bearing which propels the blade forward that last little bit to let the lock snap over into place. You get a smoothness you can feel and the feeling and sound combined of that back-to-back double "click/click" (barely perceptible as two separate sounds if done properly) of the lock opening. There's nothing like it.

I know that sounds a little vague and mystical, maybe corny but it's the best I can do.

betzner has some WH knives and I believe a Don Hanson or two so I bet he knows exactly what I'm referring to.

You've absolutely brought alive for me all the issues on the buttonlock that, in my own opinion, are primary issues. Thanks for illuminating a rather tired mind here, lol. As to the sound difference, yep, DHIII's folders have that "clack"!!
.

 

[tiguy7]

Been using a W/H B-15 button lock (EDC) for over 20 years. No issues, no unplanned releases. I will trade liner locks for button locks.

 

[brownshoe]

Thanks for schooling me. With tHe button lock, I like to push-then flik open. I had a button lock fail. It stopped locking fully closed, leaving a tiny bit above the scale. The button was slightly canted keeping it from fully engaging.. Sent it in and it was quickly fixed.