can someone post a pic

D

Dr sharp

Joined
Oct 20, 2003
Messages
299
I too would love to see a knife sharpened on the sharpmaker. maybe somewould could show an up close pic. Id love to get a sharpmaker but dont want to mess up the tip . Id :barf: if i messed up the tip. I know i could always send it back to be fixed , but hate the thought of being without my seebie for a week.
 
These two blades are free hand sharpened with a fine coticule stone. For the small Sebenza serrations I use a red (fine) DMT diafold sharpener…

Sebenza%20g.jpg


I hope it will help you ! :p
 
I sharpened my small Sebenza with a Sharpmaker (204MF) and I did not ruin the tip. I'm also pleased to say that I got the blade sharper than it was out of the box. I'm not even a very experienced Sharpmaker user, but I did practice on a cheap knife first. Make sure you hold back a bit when you pull back the knife so the tip doesn't scratch the rods and it should be alright. Even when you make a little mistake you won't immediately ruin the tip. In my opinion the Sharpmaker is very safe to use on a Sebenza, I think more experienced users will agree.

knife%20-%20chris%20reeve%20sebenza%2001%20a.jpg
 
Louky said:
These two blades are free hand sharpened with a fine coticule stone. For the small Sebenza serrations I use a red (fine) DMT diafold sharpener…

Sebenza%20g.jpg


I hope it will help you ! :p
Click to expand...

NICE job on those blades. I am learnng to freehand (on my own). Any tips on maintaining angle would be great. Do you switch hands for the different sides or keep the blade in one hand? If I don't switch hands, It's harder to see the angle when the spine is facing away.
 
wow, they came out great...i dont know if ill ever learn how to free hand...but the sharpmaker seems to work great. thanks for the pics
 
I used my Sharpmaker to reprofile my Sebenza about a month and a half ago and the tip is fine. I was a little nervous at first, but just take it slow and you'll be alright.
 
When I was starting free hand sharpening, I was following the advices of other BladeForums.com members. I was putting a marker pen line on a cheap knife edge and look how much steel I was removing, so I learned to use always the same angle and to maintain it constant.

With practice, I was taking the habit to begin the movement with a finger in contact with the stone to “control” my starting angle. The important thing is to leave the stone always by its side and with the blade tip otherwise you will create some scratches on the blade (it seems to be stupid, but it was difficult for me to avoid doing this… :p ). After many try, I’m finally more comfortable to use always the same hand for the two blade sides. With the frame-lock one I go from the top to the lower parts of the stone (in this case it is my index finger which control the starting angle) and for the other side it is like if I’m trying to cut a stone slice (and I control the blade angle with my thumb).

The stone I use is a water one. It is in a wood box with rubber inserts (you can also jam the stone with wet kitchen paper). After sharpening the blade, I rub the edge on leather to remove small steel parts (they are microscopic : I can not find the English word… in French, we say “morfil”) and to polish the edge.

I like this sharpening method. You are in contact with the stone and you feel the steel vibrations when the abrasive paste removes it (it is not the stone itself which sharpen the blade, but the water mixed with some stone fine particles).

I hope it was understandable… have a nice day ! ;)
 
Thank you for your response. It was very understandable and helpful. Just one more question. How about the curve in the blade as you approach the tip? Any tips on how to sweep the curve at the same angle?
 
You are right, it is an important problem. I always try to pull the blade in a direction which is perpendicular to the curve tangent. It is why I just continue the sharpening movement but with a wrist rotation. I have to admit that the curve angle is not exactly the same as the linear blade section one (it is visible on the picture). But the cutting ability is not affected and the edge is more continuous (without steps) from the handle to the tip. After all, it is the difference between the hand and a mechanically guided sharpener… :p

;)
 
I just want to add a comment : it is only my way to sharpen knives, I don’t claim that it is the better… :D (I may be wrong for some points :( )
 
Yes, I agree that the curve needs special consideration. What I am finding is that you need to LIFT your WRIST, yet not change the angle - if you follow me. Lifting the wrist while performing the rotation will keep the curved part of the edge at the same level of contact as the straight part of the edge. I mean lifting as in raising the elbow, but still keeping the angle (with your finger) the same. This moves the tip to the stone, as it is not on the stone in the early part of the stroke. I cannot do this very well just yet - I stink. If I could get anywhere close to your pictures, I would be very happy. As I get to the curve, I am removing a very thin line of metal, nowhere as complete as you.

You must already be lifting the handle to get the excellent results you have achieved. Once I get better at it, I will post anything I have learned.
 
You got some fine knives there. And it looks like you've definitely mastered the Sharpmaker. Very nice on that recurve unit. So, where's the Strider? With a collection like yours, you certainly would appreciate a Strider framelock - no doubt.
 
db, how many times have I asked you to not set off my "drool meter"? I had to change shirts after I revisited the pics of your knife collection. :p :D ;)
 
if the sharpmaker is good enough for dark blue , its good enough for me. I love how the edge angle is always consistant from tip to tail.
 
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