can someone post reviews on...

spyken

spyken

Gold Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2002
Messages
5,574
how the following stack up against one anor:

(1) Bob Dozier's blades (especially personal utility blades) in D2 ;);
(2) Trace Rinaldi's blades (if possible LEO, chimera) in A2 or D2E or S30V :D ;
(3) Neil Blackwood's blades (if possible melee, mini-melee, neck ninja) in D2E or S30V :cool:;
(4) Rob Simonich's blades (if possible Raven, Crowfoot) in S30V or other materials :) ;
(5) Sean Kendrick's blades (if possible Sentinel, Model 7, Monolith) in 154CM or S30V :cool: ;
(6) Mike Snody's similar blades;
(7) RJ Martin's similar blades;
(8) any other similar makers/blades that you know of.

Over the past year, I have been learning a lot from hanging around BF. In fact, I crept past my 100th post w/o realising it. :eek: I have been seeking intermitent advice here on BF, but am now going for the full works by stacking up each of the above blades I'm considering.

I am hoping for some objective substantial advice and opinions from all the experienced BF members. I'm considering getting my first custom fixed blade of around 4.5-5inches in length and I would especially like info on:

(a)ergonomics of handle and balance of overall knife;
(b)heat treat of steel, and especially the edge holding abilities of the various steels with their respective heat treats;
(c)toughness of blades, rockwell hardness;
(d)cutting - push cut/slicing/stabbing ability for various types of materials. Also, how sharp is sharp? Does it pass the free hanging rope / paper slicing tests? Cardboard cutting? Does is shave free-standing hairs? Able to split hairs? This part is especially important to me :p
(e)ease of re-sharpening with a spyderco sharpmaker;
(f)corrosion resistance, in particular Sean's 154cm and Bob's D2 as I may be using them in a wet/marine environment;
(g) their respective sheaths;
(h) how it is like to deal with each of the above knifemakers.

I hope all would chip in this review - I know much has been said about all of the above makers, but the search functions are down for basic members, and I would like fresh input as well. My use for the fixed blade would be utility (cutting paper, cardboard, rope, shave hair :D , meat, wires, paracord, canvas) and tactical/defensive use. I will NOT be using the knife as a prybar (except as a last ditch effort), altho' if it can be used as one - please let me know.

My budget is anywhere from $180-330 depending on materials, design and abilities of the knife. My search is for the ultimate utility/tactical knife in that price range. I have read many times of legendary sharpness of RJ Martin's blades (would really like to be able to afford a 5inch double ground Wasabi). Is it really true? How do the rest stack up?

I would also appreciate comments on blade design, for eg. perhaps Sean and Neil's recurve-style blades, Bob's new convex ground blades, Trace's flat ground clip points etc.

Please pour in the opinions/feedback - I thoroughly need them and enjoy reading them, especially since the search function was disabled.

Lastly, I would like to say that altho' I have only cash for one knife, I truly respect and admire each of the above knifemakers' eye for design, and from what I gather here in BF, mastery of the riddle of fire and steel.

Respectfully,
spyken
 
really hoping for some feedback from you guys out there.....I've been checking every 2 hours :eek: :eek: :eek: even though I'm supposed to be hard at work....:p :p :p
 
You can read my extended review of the Dozier Straight Hunter in the newest upcoming issue of KnifeForums - The Magazine. The review covers Bob Dozier's hollow grinds, D2 steel, handle ergonomics, sheath quality, and other fine points (pardon the pun). The only aspects it doesn't cover is the durability of his standard issue micarta scales (the reviewed knife has stag scales), and his newer convex grinds.

Bob has also come out with a semi-production run of wood handled flat ground knives, sold through A.G. Russell. They look like real winners.

If you visit Bob's own web forum (accessible from his website), you can look back at a few different people's opinions on his convex grinds. Very good reading, and a lot of information on the types of testing that were done. Just do a search from his board, with the word "convex", and set the time span to "the beginning".
 
buzzbait,
I'm afraid we don't get that magazine over here in Singapore. I just stopped by Borders....perhaps, someone would be so kind as to reproduce the article here.....with the relevant permission. thanks. btw, your convex ground general utility looks damn sweet!

spyken
 
I've owned the Dozier White River Skinner that he makes for A.G. Russell. It is outstanding in all aspects. The handle material on mine was Burgundy Micarta and it was an awesome knife. Had I not been in need knife making materials, I would still have it.
I only know Rob Simonch's work from word of mouth but have yet to hear a negative about it.
Another maker in that range is Steve Korkum of Hawk Knives.
Overall, I really like D-2 as a knife steel. It isn't as stainless as a lot of the true stainless steels but it's edge holding ability is truely amazing.
Doc
 
(1) Bob Dozier's blades (especially personal utility blades) in D2 ;
(2) Trace Rinaldi's blades (if possible LEO, chimera) in A2 or D2E or S30V ;
(3) Neil Blackwood's blades (if possible melee, mini-melee, neck ninja) in D2E or S30V ;
(4) Rob Simonich's blades (if possible Raven, Crowfoot) in S30V or other materials ;
(5) Sean Kendrick's blades (if possible Sentinel, Model 7, Monolith) in 154CM or S30V ;
(6) Mike Snody's similar blades;
(7) RJ Martin's similar blades;
(8) any other similar makers/blades that you know of.
Click to expand...

(a)ergonomics of handle and balance of overall knife;
(b)heat treat of steel, and especially the edge holding abilities of the various steels with their respective heat treats;
(c)toughness of blades, rockwell hardness;
(d)cutting - push cut/slicing/stabbing ability for various types of materials. Also, how sharp is sharp? Does it pass the free hanging rope / paper slicing tests? Cardboard cutting? Does is shave free-standing hairs? Able to split hairs? This part is especially important to me
(e)ease of re-sharpening with a spyderco sharpmaker;
(f)corrosion resistance, in particular Sean's 154cm and Bob's D2 as I may be using them in a wet/marine environment;
(g) their respective sheaths;
(h) how it is like to deal with each of the above knifemakers.
Click to expand...

You've a pretty big and wide open post here so, I'll attempt to narrow down some of the points of consideration:
(b) heat treat - the makers who don't use Paul Bos know what they are doing and will get it right. Paul Bos is very consistent and one of the best but, not the only one that can heat treat right. Steel? CPM 3V is one I have had good success with but, ATS-34, BG-42 and others are still very good in their own right. Steel selection could fill a book ;)
(c) tell the knifemaker what you will do with the knife and let them tell what the RC should be, after all they do this stuff for a living
(d) sharpness - my Murray Carter Muteki knives are extremely sharp but, the edge would be destroyed with some the cutting you mention. A few of my knives may not split hairs but, they also have an edge that will stand up to cutting wire and still cut well. What edge angles are you using, what final polish are you putting on the edge? Does you knife edge need to have bite?
(e) Some of the CPM Super Steels are a bear to sharpen so, a sharpmaker wouldn't work but, on the other hand, if you only need to sharpen them once a year sending them back to maker for a touch up is a reasonable thing to consider. Would you consider buying a diamond stone (larger Norton not a Wal-mart pocket version) or Spyderco diamond sleeve?
(f) corosion resistance has much more to it then the steel involved. A great heat treat will work magic on the grain structure and increase rust resistance (I've had a Benchmade rust in my pocket in just one day - which is abnormal). If you stay away from true carbon steels, most knives are not that hard to maintain but, even good stainless will rust if abused enough. A senty cloth will work wonders. Buy a knife from a good maker with a good mainstream blade steel - whether its D2, ATS-34, etc. a little ocassional maintanence goes a long way.
(g) Sheaths are a personal thing to most people. The best thing about sheaths is that you can buy a second one later in life at modest cost. I own knives by most of the makers you mention above and all of the provide sheaths which are very nice and appropriate for the knife. Military knives tend to come with a less personalized sheath but, it is still a good sheath. Bob Dozier is known for his sheath work but, he is not the only maker doing high quality work in Kydex. $30 dollars in the aftermarket will get you a sheath after the fact from people who specialize in that work. Working leather is a different skill from grinding steel and folding kydex so, take that into account whether you do one stop shopping or will consider a second sheath in the future.
(h) While I have not personally purchased from all the knifemakers in question, the ones I have all first class individuals. You would be hard pressed to find a better group of people.

I've got to get to work so, in reference to the knifemakers - each has their own style and make a great knife in their own right. Doziers tend to be a little smaller then what you are looking for but, a custom order will certainly take care of that. Trace Rinaldi's work is among the best - I have used one of his knives for about 4 years now and can't recommend him any more highly then that other then to say I have purchased even more of his work. For a more classic knife in a good leather sheath, you should really check out Geno Denning at www.cavemanengineering.com . A great knife in Kydex is a thing of beauty but, every once in a while, it's good to use a classic knife sheathed in great leather.
 
Rob Simonich makes some of the most outstanding field tools around. Finish is excellent, ergonomics are stellar, designs are perfect, etc. His "gunner grip" handles offer one of the best grips I've ever felt. You absolutely cannot go wrong with any of his knives. The Mid-Tech pricing make his custom knives available to everyone around. Simply the best.
 
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