Can someone sell me on the BK2?

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Jul 27, 2015
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I know I'm probably about to butcher a sacred cow, which might actually be a good job for a BK2, come to think of it, so here goes...

I love the idea of a BK2 in theory. Just because I feel like a beefy, indestructible hunk of steel is cool. But once the logical side of my brain kicks in, I find it hard to justify. Here's why.

The thing is TOUGH and THICK. No argument there. One could baton that sucker all day long every day and never break it. But with a blade at only 5.25 inches, you're really only batonning rather small branches anyway. So it's not like you'd ever stress the steel enough to NEED that thickness if you're only splitting wood let's say 3" thick. For that matter, the BK16 could probably do 90% of the batonning tasks you'd do with a BK2, and in a more compact, slicier, and much lighter package.

So maybe all that weight is good for chopping? But with the 5" blade, you'd be really limited with chopping. On the other hand, a BK9 weighs only an ounce more than the BK2, and chops like a beast.

I would imagine a stretched out BK2 might be useful. Something like a 7" saber ground, drop point blade at 0.25" thickness and those wonderful Becker grips would fill a gap in the Becker line up.

The obvious drawback in a knife like this is weight. But with that weight, I would imagine it's too short to be a great chopper and batonning knife, and also a compromise on fine tasks, vs. something like a BK11/14 or a BK16 which excel at such things. (Yes, i know there's a pic I see around here of a BK2 that feathersticked a tooth pick. Very cool. But that doesn't mean it's the right tool for the job.)

So if it's neither fish, nor foul, and the things it SHOULD be great at because of its weight and thickness, it can't be good at because it's just too short, I guess the question is, does it actually excel at anything other than "being tough."

Just in the interest of full disclosure, I have never used one, but have handled one. It felt awkward in the hand due to weight, whereas the BK16 was my first Becker and immediately felt like shaking the hand of an old familiar friend.

I really do ask this as an honest question in the hopes that I might see the light. I love my 24, 16, and 4, and I trust that if Uncle E designed it, it's got to be good. I kinda thought I'd like to add another Bk to the tool box and was considering a BK2, but I am not a collector and as knives that "work for a living" I'd like to know what job it could do for me.
 
It's basically unbreakable, so it's reliable and serves the 'apocalypse knife' scenario nicely, filling the gap between a knife and a prybar. If you don't have the need to use it in ways a knife isn't supposed to be used, go for a thinner knife like a 10 or a 16; the 2 is designed to be abused without failing.
 
The best advice I can give is buy a new or used one, beat on it a bit, if ya don't like it sell it
 
Its a heavy use multitool that can be used for doing the heavy stuff with ease and light weight stuff not as well as a "TRUE UBER BUSHY!" but it can do it.

I got 2 for its 5" in heavy built frame for a shorter knife with a saber grind for a good multi purpose built tool. I got enough "light weight" blades that can do the light bushy foo foo stuff.

If you want a mission specific blade for doing a few tasks get that knife. If you want some thing that can cover about any thing even if its not the uber bestest to do the donest best job, I find a true multitool blade is a better option to have myself especially if I'm going to take only one knife or two on an outing.
 
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I love mine, but I had to change it a bit.
I wanted something that would dig for fatwood easier. While getting a sharper tip, I gained a flatter tip for batonning. I put a small penetrator tip on it (sharpened the front 3/16" of the swedge), this allows the 1/4" stock to cut a bit of its way in, and lowering the resistance slightly. It isn't much, but in dead stumps, it is a bit noticeable.

- Polished the blade a bit
- Straight clip w/ factory tip location
- Sharpening notch has had the front edge sharpened since it bothers me when it gets hung up in stuff, plus it helps with cutting slick fishing line and such, if this is all I have with me or I lend it out at camp.
- Micarta slabs dyed maroon, but going to be changing that soon enough
- Jimping added for help when digging in stumps, or other when a hammer grip isn't being used.

Like I said, I Love mine. It just needed some tweaking to make it Just right.
2017-06-12 18.01.02.jpg
 
The BK2 is the use & abuse with abandon knife in the Becker range. It can handle more than most users could reasonably throw at it. It can handle everything from prying to chopping to batoning to the important test of making a PBJ sandwich!
 
I love mine, but I had to change it a bit.
I wanted something that would dig for fatwood easier. While getting a sharper tip, I gained a flatter tip for batonning. I put a small penetrator tip on it (sharpened the front 3/16" of the swedge), this allows the 1/4" stock to cut a bit of its way in, and lowering the resistance slightly. It isn't much, but in dead stumps, it is a bit noticeable.

- Polished the blade a bit
- Straight clip w/ factory tip location
- Sharpening notch has had the front edge sharpened since it bothers me when it gets hung up in stuff, plus it helps with cutting slick fishing line and such, if this is all I have with me or I lend it out at camp.
- Micarta slabs dyed maroon, but going to be changing that soon enough
- Jimping added for help when digging in stumps, or other when a hammer grip isn't being used.

Like I said, I Love mine. It just needed some tweaking to make it Just right.
View attachment 719558

you misspelled axe and froe :D
 
you misspelled axe and froe :D
What?
I didn't axe froe no input!
;):D


For the OP:
The BK2 will indeed work well for breaking down wood over 5" in diameter, just work your way around the edge taking off triangles/chunks, or even better, use the 2 to make some wedges and use them to split a round in half.
 
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