Can tungsten-DLC be removed with out damage to the blade of a knife

[bagbyknoter]

I have a Kershaw boa and the blade is really scratched up. I was wondering if i could remove the coating for a cleaner look.

Thanks,

Jonathan

 

[xmtgx]

Sanding and beadblasting will both remove the coating.

 

[parbajtor]

Try brake fluid, not many coatings it won't remove.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Tungsten DLC isn't just a sprayed on coating. It's chemically bonded to the steel (as if anodized). I have a ZT-0350 with the same coating, and solvents (like break fluid) won't touch it, other than perhaps fading the color slightly. Grinding or sanding is probably the only way to remove it.

 

[Heiheit]

Tungsten DLC isn't just a sprayed on coating. It's chemically bonded to the steel (as if anodized). I have a ZT-0350 with the same coating, and solvents (like break fluid) won't touch it, other than perhaps fading the color slightly. Grinding or sanding is probably the only way to remove it.

Yep. this is the only way to go unfortunately. Like obsessed said, the carbon is actually electrostatically bonded to the steel so no chemical is going to remove it.

 

[richard j]

dsltech here on the forum offers free glass beading and stonewashing of blades.

 

[bagbyknoter]

Thanks for all the advice guys. I have sent dslteck an email and he say he would be glad to do it.
Thank once again guys.

 

[richard j]

it will need sharpened up after he gets done with it. if you want it sharpened up i can do it for you.

 

[MTHall720]

Sanding and beadblasting will both remove the coating.

Do you have a series if grits to recommend? Hand sand with a block or power sand?

 

[MTHall720]

dsltech here on the forum offers free glass beading and stonewashing of blades.

Thanks Richard. If any one here doesn't know hime let me tell you he is a good man! Excellent and competitive sharpening, etc.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Do you have a series if grits to recommend? Hand sand with a block or power sand?

If I were doing it, I'd start with a higher grit of wet/dry (silicon carbide) paper. The coating is very hard, but also very thin. So, a very coarse grit might be overkill, and will obviously leave deeper scratches behind. Maybe start out with 1000 grit or so. If you find it's not working well or fast enough, take a step down in grit. When sanding by hand, I've found it very useful to use a rubber art/drafting eraser as a sanding block, around which to wrap the sandpaper. The rubber block helps to distribute pressure evenly, which minimizes digging in and/or flat-spotting in places. Keep the sanding strokes in one linear direction, to even out the finish.

I won't comment on powered sanding/grinding, as I haven't used that before. My inclination would be to avoid it, if you haven't done it before. Mistakes happen much faster that way.