can you do this with your liner/frame locks?

hardheart

hardheart

Joined
Sep 19, 2001
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This is fresh out of the mailbox. First pic is the knife opened normally. Second pic is some thumb pressure applied. I have been able to do this with every example I have handled of a particular series of knives that has a steel lock bar, be it liner or frame. I apply about as much pressure as it takes to release the lock, or to maybe flick a disposable lighter, and the lock bar goes completely across.

The lock did not fail under spine taps or whacks (which were done after I made sure I could do this to the lock) but the lock bar did end up fully engaged in the same way after some repeated tapping.

The lock holds the knife open, I just don't really call something locked in position when parts are still able to move around.
 
I have a liner lock knife that does that. It didn't at first. Now it does it on it's own every so often. It's really hard to release the lock when it does that. I've put it away. That's one of the reasons I bought a new knife.
 
hardheart said:
http://img41.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=75273_100_1093_122_796lo.JPG
http://img214.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=75279_100_1094_122_417lo.JPG

This is fresh out of the mailbox. First pic is the knife opened normally. Second pic is some thumb pressure applied. I have been able to do this with every example I have handled of a particular series of knives that has a steel lock bar, be it liner or frame. I apply about as much pressure as it takes to release the lock, or to maybe flick a disposable lighter, and the lock bar goes completely across.

The lock did not fail under spine taps or whacks (which were done after I made sure I could do this to the lock) but the lock bar did end up fully engaged in the same way after some repeated tapping.

The lock holds the knife open, I just don't really call something locked in position when parts are still able to move around.
Click to expand...

I have one low-end liner lock that the lock bar goes all the way across when you open it. Still locks up tight with no blade wiggle. But I do not have one with a lock mechanism that moves once it is set. I agree, that would be unsettling.
 
It happens, but I think it should be a little harder to do with a new knife. It will happen more easily after the lock, pivot, and stop bar have worn down from use. If this is happening across a whole series of knives, it means that the manufacturer is grinding the part of the blade that the lock engages a little closer to square than usual. I wouldn't recommend pushing the lock over like that regularly though. It could accelerate wear.
 
knarfeng said:
But I do not have one with a lock mechanism that moves once it is set. I agree, that would be unsettling.
Click to expand...

It's not as dangerous as it sounds. Lock movement can be a problem with the CRKT KISS knives, because the blade pivot has a lot of flex if it's not tightened just right. But I've put mine through some pretty hard use without it ever unlocking.
 
hardheart said:



This is fresh out of the mailbox. First pic is the knife opened normally. Second pic is some thumb pressure applied. I have been able to do this with every example I have handled of a particular series of knives that has a steel lock bar, be it liner or frame. I apply about as much pressure as it takes to release the lock, or to maybe flick a disposable lighter, and the lock bar goes completely across.

The lock did not fail under spine taps or whacks (which were done after I made sure I could do this to the lock) but the lock bar did end up fully engaged in the same way after some repeated tapping.

The lock holds the knife open, I just don't really call something locked in position when parts are still able to move around.
Click to expand...
I've had two Kershaw Leeks that when I would open with the speed safe flipper the liner lock would not engage fully. When I used the thumb stud the liner lock would engage fully. Strange.
 
hardheart said:
:osorry bout that, firefox + adblock, I had no idea.
Click to expand...

I have adblock as well, but I must have to manually add it somehow. the first pic came up with banner ads, but the second one loaded some page of "videos" with a countdown timer before a button would load that would take me to the picture. Might be a fluke, since it didn't do that to me when I loaded it a second time.

Anyways, is the knife in question a Leek? I just tried with Kershaw Needswork, Spyderco Military, and SigTac (made by Fox Cutlery)linerlocks and they are all good to go- No movement across the tang. I don't currently have any Framelocks to try.
 
Can't do it on my Spyderco Military, Kershaw Shallot, or Sebenza. Was able to do it to a friend's Leek.
 
I had a Kershaw Leek that would do that and your pic looks like Leeks. I didn't think it was a problem though. I haven't been able to do that with any other liner or frame locks that I know of.
 
Yeah, it's the new Random Leek with 14C28N steel. Also had it happen with a Chive, 2 Whirlwinds, and 2 Blackouts (the two pair were checked at a display case at a store) I didn't want to really single out Kershaw in the initial post, as I had mentioned this a while back. I wish they had adjusted lock geometry on the Leek with the new models and all the big changes in steels and new designs coming out so frequently.

But for non-speedsafe Kershaws, I had a Vapor and JYD that had no such issue. The Vapor lock (heh) was solid all the way round, and a little work with the JYD eliminated any spinetap failures.

I'll try to get my hands on one of the limited CPM S110V Shallots as well, and see if the lock is better. It's a much newer design overall compared to the Leek.

I still don't like liner/frame locks, but I can't resist the steels. Hell, I hate recurves and tantos also, and I have the BM 12800 and am on the list for a 710, both in M4. The 12800 is a recurve tanto blade; plus it's coated black and has an aluminum handle - everything except the steel and the axis lock disgusts me about that one :(
 
I can also do that with my Kershaw Leek CB, but it hasn't been a problem for me. The lock has not failed in either positions (and the lockup is extremely solid in both positions).

Of course, if you want a monster framelock, get yourself a Tyrade :D
 
i own a few with fit issues, however i find if one uses said knife as intended, and is aware of possible problem, it remains a safe knife as far as im concerned.
 
My Rainbow leek also can do this. If anything, I trust it more with it pushed all the way over like that. I push it over like that on purpose if I'm going to stab through something.

It does take a bit more effort to unlock onces it's over there though.
 
Had the same thing happen in the first pic to my brand new Titanium Mini-Cyclone in ZDP-189.But it didn't touch the other side with hard flicks or openings at first but it did touch the other side when it was gripped with moderate pressure.
 
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