can you file...

ACStudios

ACStudios

Joined
Apr 9, 2001
Messages
2,170
Hi all,

Just got my M43 yesterday and it is sweet!! :)

I think the Neem wood scales have shrunk a bit though and it has left the handle exposed in places which would/could cause some blistering. It is about 1/16" give or take along the edge of the handle scales...

Would it be possible to file down the exposed metal to even it up with the scales if done carefully? I've got a bunch of metal files that Walosi left me when he passed. I'm not sure on the hardness of the metal...

I'm sending this M43 off to Afghanistan with a good friend and want it to be user friendly.

Thanks!
 
ACStudios, the steel is fairly soft, I'd use a belt sander to get it flush then sand the neem to make it pretty. Depending on the file it will probably take off a lot more material then you want. A Dremel with a sanding drum may work better depending on how steady your hands are.
 
Have you tried oiling the neem yet? I have found that my need handles drink oil readily and will plump up a bit if given a drink.

Also, you could do the ol' Sarge trick of wrapping the handle in "100 mph tape" and that would both protect the handle and give it some grip. Then even if the dry climate causes the handle to shrink down further, it shouldn't hurt your friend's hand AND any modification done to the grip wouldn't be permanent:)
 
I filed the tang on my CAK so it would be flush with the wood. Just be sure the scales have stabilized in size, or you'll be chasing your tail trying to keep them flush with the tang.
 
It would be best to Hydrate the handles first with some mineral or Linseed oil to ensure that they are protected and are as full as they can be.
The tang should not be hardened, however, you want to be careful of how you use a file on 5160 steel. If your File/Rasp is too coarse you can make gouges in the metal that are a right godawful pain to try to sand and buff out. My preferred method is to use a medium or even a fine file that cuts well to do the intial shaping and then use 120 grit, 220 grit, 320 grit and 400 grit to bring the metal to a state where i can buff it back to a shine easily.
 
Okay.. I'll oil the handles down real good. The shrinkage is enough that I doubt it'll fill all the way back out, but every little bit helps. I've got some small/fine files that'll do the trick... or should. If not, the dremel tool will get a shot at it.

But first, it'll travel over to Leatherface for a kydex sheath. I'm hoping to get it done in time to deploy WITH Joel... but it might have to follow him overseas.

Thanks!
 
If it is going to another "dry" environment where it likely won't get oiled you might want to go a head and file it down before they shrink again. It'll be a lot easier to sand the wood back down if it ever re-hydrates than to remove metal if it gets worse.Good idea to go with the finer files between Karda's & Cpl's comments and my experience with it, it isn't a whole lot harder than extruded aluminum to file with a good file.
Prayers & smoke sent hoping it never really needs to be used
 
ACSstudio,

I've done that kind of work many times. At first, let the horn shrink to all it can, then apply some oil (i often use machine oil) to protect further shrinkage.

I dont recommend to use any machine power here. You are working on a finished product, if you make a mistake like a slip of your hand, the high speed machine will considerably destroy the handle.

You can confidently use a 400 grit flat diamond file to file the metal. When not hardened, the steel is still very soft. when you almost grind down (i.e 0.1mm from the horn surface), use a piece of 400 grit sand paper to glue a round a round wood / metal stick, about finger size, then use that stick as a file, gently push from bolster to pommel. Dont push from side to side as it will leave scratch & cause harm to the horn. Then you can increase grit with the stick until it shines.

Good luck!

Hung
 
Getting ready to send it off to Leatherface tomorrow for its kydex sheath. I'll look at filing down the steel tonight, or when it gets back.

I noticed that the rivets are are a little above the wood too. I've seen where some of you guys have replaced the rivets with the hollow type... is this a matter of drilling out the old and putting in the new? Or is there more involved work done. They look real nice!
 
ACStudios, depending on how well they are in there you can either press them out with a drill press of the like or tap them out with with a smaller brass rod or punch. I've done a few and haven't had to drill one out yet. If you like them and they aren't moving around leave them. If you want tubes; punch the pins out and replace with tubes. If you don't want to go through the hassle of flaring the tubes use 2 part epoxy they won't move then sand them flush. Any good hobby store should have brass or white brass tubing in the size you are looking for. Worst case use copper tubing, not quite as strong as brass but by the time you get to the point where it would matter things have already gone too far down hill. You could also use steel brake line for the tubes as well.
 
Thanks Oldschool45!! I'll look around town while the khuk is at Leatherface's. I've got the punches and a drill press at the girlfriend's if necessary.
 
ACStudios said:
Thanks Oldschool45!! I'll look around town while the khuk is at Leatherface's. I've got the punches and a drill press at the girlfriend's if necessary.
Click to expand...

Uwinv I wouldn't use the Dremel on it either for reasons spoken... Knowing Walosi as well as I did I'm sure that amongst his files there has to be a few,
"Mill Bastard" which is ideal for what you've described. "Mill Bastard" is what designates the cut of the file as there are several "Bastard" cuts, something else you can Google someday when you're setting around all bored and stuff. ;) :p :D
Seeing as how you've got as much as 1/16" to remove a bit coarser file would work well until you get down to where you have only 1/64" or a bit more and a bit more in this case is the way too go...
Karda is spot on when he talks about getting too close with a coarse file and then having too remove the gouges... :(
As a couple of guys mention Rejuvenating the wood should go a long ways in cutting down the amount of wood you'll have to remove at the end!:thumbup: :D :cool:
If at all possible and if it wouldn't hamper Leatherface in making the scabbard I think it would be a great idea to saturate the handle and then wrap it in Saran Wrap or other thin clear plastic before sending it off to him.
That'd go a long ways in keeping the handle saturated until you get it back and can finish it...:thumbup: :cool: :D

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