can you force patina on any blade steel?

Patina is a form of corrosion, so it should be possible on any steel that is capable of rust. Some steels have higher chromium content, and others have a higher surface polish which both resist rust better, so patinas don't "grow" as fast, but it should still be possible.

D2 is highly resistant, so be careful if you try because you just might get it pitting.
 
Only on carbon steels. D2 is almost stainless so I'd think getting a nice looking even patina on d2 would be somewhat of a hassle, but possible none the less.
 
My 710 in D2 took a 'tiner. Very faint though. I used mustard and tobasco, ended up with a little spotting above the logo but very small so eh who cares?
 
Basic carbon steels will take a patina quite easily. Stainless steels will require a lot of work to force a patina on, but are theoretically still possible. Tool steels are a fantastic middle ground between the two, offering stain resistance in a high carbon steel, but they too are possible to put a patina on.

There's a couple of knives out there with blades made of nitrogen steel - it is impossible to corrode most nitrogen steels with anything that would cause a decent patina, so don't even bother with them. You'd probably hurt yourself with anything that could corrode them :p
 
I use Ferric Chloride to patina stainless steels like s30v, vg-10 and s35vn. It should work on just about anything. Ask for it at Radio Shack.

For D2, I find that Birchwood Casey's Super Blue gives a niiice midnight finish.
 
D2 with ferric chloride

f9dVo.jpg


edit: the pit you see there isn't from the ferric chloride but from some stupidity on my part
 
H1 steel does not contain carbon, it will not "rust". You can force corrosion with chemicals, but at what point do you stop?

Just take the knife outside and use it. I find it really silly after a while when someone shows up with a new knife that has a couple years of patina on it. What's wrong with actually using a knife? -I think we can drop the pretense about "protecting" the steel from rusting by first forcing a patina.

People I knew in martial arts used to "age" their black belts in the microwave. Kinda dumb when a newb has a belt that looks older than our teachers...
 
CWL said:
Just take the knife outside and use it. I find it really silly after a while when someone shows up with a new knife that has a couple years of patina on it. What's wrong with actually using a knife? -I think we can drop the pretense about "protecting" the steel from rusting by first forcing a patina.
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I tend to agree with most steels, but there are some blades that actually need the protection... 5160, for example. Western WA is kinda humid in the winter and fall, and my kukri would spot rust even with oil on the blade. I finally gave up and soaked it in mustard, vinegar, tabasco, etc. a few times and now it won't rust even when I use it in the rain and just toss it back in the sheath. The patina just gets darker now, instead of going brown.
 
Picked up an old Colonial Lock Back today and it's a nice knife, however the high carbon steel blade is prone to rust, so I patina'd it and not only does it look awesome, I know it will help it. That thing is so sharp after I ran it over the stones, sliced the heck out of my finger while rubbing the Mustard off. I should have got stitches, but I hate going to the doctor.

Anyways, you can patina M4, D2 however is kinda hard to patina.

All of this from a little cut on my finger, they had to glue it, splint it, and wrap it:
Hand.JPG
 
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When it comes to a natural patina D2 can be a tuffy. I've got a Queen trapper I've been carrying for about a year and a half off and on and only now is it starting to develop somewhat of a light grayish patina.
 
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