Can you go from a 5k stone to a Strop? Or do you need a 8k or higher first?

Mikey's Deli

Mikey's Deli

Joined
Jan 27, 2014
Messages
183
I am buying some Shapton stones from cktg (chef knives to go) to add to my professional arsenal. I already have a nice 3" x 8" strop I got as a present for Valentines Day. I am kind of building up my free hand stones from back to front.
On a side note...I have the Edge Pro and have been working on that for a while and am getting pretty good. Hair popping sharp knives that are holding their edges so far. (knock wood)
One deal from cktg is the 320, 1000, 5000 set of pro stones. Another is the 1000, 5000, 8000 set for considerably more, but not crazy, money.
Now, I am obsessive enough to buy all of Shapton's inventory eventually if I am not kept in check, but I was just thinking I would only need a 4 or 5 step process when sharpening other peoples knives for spare cash.
I am a chef, so my knives are important to me. I am also a knife knut so all knives are important to me.

I want others to rely on me to handle their knives with the same respect and care I have for mine. I also want them to have the sharpest knives possible as I would want for myself. But I don't want to spend all day on 3 knives like I sometimes do on my folders as well as my chef knives. Fast in and fast out. More $. Customer satisfaction in all aspects.

Most importantly, I have a ton to learn. I am very grateful for this forum. I am grateful to be surrounded by so many experts and so much knowledge.

My questions are: What is the opinion of some of you experts as to what is the best/proper progression of grits in sharpening?
What do most people expect from their knife sharpeners? With their chef's knives and then with their folders. (ZT, Benchmade, Spyderco...production knives)

I appreciate any and all feedback. Thanks again for your time and consideration.
 
I'm no expert, but if you're sharpening other people's knives from start to finish on stones, the coarser stone will serve you better than the polishing stone. I've sharpened a few colleagues' kitchen knives (for free) and if they're only mildly damaged I use 1k + 5k (Chosera) and then strop on paper. I have finer stones and strops too, but I only use them for my own knives, or if I feel like trying them out on someone else's knife. A 5k edge is already way above what most people are used. A coarse stone is nice to have when you get a chipped knife.
 
I agree with this ^. I would try to limit the number of steps involved and increase my margin of error - keep the stropping to a minimum, especially with abrasives. A clean 5k finish, stropped on paper, is going to be a nice edge for anybody, and a real nice edge for folks that don't know how to maintain their own cutlery. I would also recommend slowly working into some freehand technique, starting with the coarse stones. If sharpening for yourself or others, short of using a powered machine you will make your edges a lot faster using a freehand method. Coarse, medium, fine - a 240 grit (or so), a 1k, and a 4-6k make a good set.
 
Go with the shapton pros, I would change out the 320 for the 220 though you will need he extra grinding power.

Folders are going to be a bit different so you might want to add a 2k for those. The 1k to 5k jump on most kitchen knives won't be a problem but with folders and high wear resistant steels the 1k scratches will prove difficult to remove.

Most waterstone sets consist of 3 stones, coarse, medium, and fine.

If you ever plan to make a dime then your sharpening time per blade needs to be around 10 minutes.
 
On a similar note, I'm curious if the type of stone/hone material matters, all grits being equal - ie; out of diamond, ceramic, oil, aluminium oxide, arkansas stone, and whatever the various "waterstones" are made of, which typically work faster? Which material is recommended for a high sheen polish? etc..
 
knifenut1013 said:
Go with the shapton pros, I would change out the 320 for the 220 though you will need he extra grinding power.

Folders are going to be a bit different so you might want to add a 2k for those. The 1k to 5k jump on most kitchen knives won't be a problem but with folders and high wear resistant steels the 1k scratches will prove difficult to remove.

Most waterstone sets consist of 3 stones, coarse, medium, and fine.

If you ever plan to make a dime then your sharpening time per blade needs to be around 10 minutes.
Click to expand...


Id agree with Jason. With exception of rather than the 2k i i would get the 1500. Its the most underrated stone in the entire shapton lineup. Now that ive started using it i dont use my 2k very often anymore. Make sure you get an atoma or dmt plate for flattening.

In regards to stropping it will depend on what kind of steels your tackling. High vanadiun modern powdered steels can be tricky and require CBN or Diamond once you start to get so fine on them.

If your just dealing with more basic steels then some alumnium oxide or boron carbide can be a cheaper alternative. I would be looking at a compound in the 1u range. CBN/AlOX/ BC for a smoother edge. Polycrystalline diamond for that really "sticky" sharp edge.
 
Back to your original question. I would use AT LEAST an 8K before going to the strop.

I think you will be happier with Shapton Glass stones. They are awesome.
 
Ben Dover said:
Back to your original question. I would use AT LEAST an 8K before going to the strop.

I think you will be happier with Shapton Glass stones. They are awesome.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I love those stones.
If at least an 8k, what else would you suggest?
 
While it is possible, I think that you would be better off going to a higher grit on waterstones before moving to a strop. If you really really wanted to go from a 5k to a strop, I'd recommend getting the 6/3/1 micron DMT diamond pastes and working through all three after the 5k. Yes, the 6 micron paste is a bit larger in grit size than the 5k, but it seems to be a good transition from a 4k in my experience.

It will take a heck of a lot of stropping - even with the 6 micron - to achieve the refinement that a simple move to an 8k would achieve in far less time on the stone.
 
Cynic2701 said:
While it is possible, I think that you would be better off going to a higher grit on waterstones before moving to a strop. If you really really wanted to go from a 5k to a strop, I'd recommend getting the 6/3/1 micron DMT diamond pastes and working through all three after the 5k. Yes, the 6 micron paste is a bit larger in grit size than the 5k, but it seems to be a good transition from a 4k in my experience.

It will take a heck of a lot of stropping - even with the 6 micron - to achieve the refinement that a simple move to an 8k would achieve in far less time on the stone.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that advice. I have that great strop and I have yet to paste it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top