Can you profile with Rotary Platen?

A

alexmin

Joined
Nov 16, 2005
Messages
513
Is it OK to profile with Rotary Platen? Will it wear down rubber belt?
I am going to buy a 10" wheel mostly for profiling for now but if I can do profiling with Rotary Platen I'd thow in another $100 and get Rotary Platen.

Thanks,
Alex
 
Alex, just get the contact wheel. I can profile a blade a lot faster on a wheel than cut it out with the bandsaw. The wheel just makes more dust is all.

The rotary platen was made for grinding bevels, not heavy edge on profiling. I'm not saying it couldn't do it, just that it wasn't made for it and would cause premature wear, IMO. It also does not have the solid backing needed for profiling.

Maybe others have different experiences or views. :confused:
 
Get the wheel for profiling. And get the slotted one, not solid. With a rest.
You can use it for hollow grinding also.
 
I don't think you'll like the RPA for profiling. The C-wheel will do a better job....and the std platen would be my 2nd choice.

-Rob
 
The slotted contact wheels are great for hogging material, they stay cool.
The smooth wheels are better for fine finishing. If you will be doing alot of mirror finished blades you might want to get a smooth wheel. I have been using a smooth wheel for hogging and mirror polishing and I have been very happy with it.
 
adammichael said:
The slotted contact wheels are great for hogging material, they stay cool.
The smooth wheels are better for fine finishing. If you will be doing alot of mirror finished blades you might want to get a smooth wheel. I have been using a smooth wheel for hogging and mirror polishing and I have been very happy with it.
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That's why I use solid wheels. I can't afford two of everything and I don't like vibration and noise so I use solid wheels exclusively. Never had a problem.

I can grind bevels pretty fast when I want to and can't see where I give up anything to serrated wheels except the drawbacks noted above.

I'll take fine finish over any perceived increase in speed. After all, that's what it's all about isn't it, a nicely finished knife?

Grinds cooler seems like an oxymoron;). Just keep a pail of water with a few drops of dish detergent in it(that lets the metal and abrasive particles sink to the bottom than possibly stick to the blade while floating on the surface and keeps you from a 60 grit scratch on your finishing grinds) to dip the blade.

On your courser belts, up to 120 grit, spray them with WD40 when you first start them up. They grind cooler that way and clog less. I've been doing that for 20+ years.
 
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