Can you stain or dye allready stabilized wood?

StealthCaliber

StealthCaliber

Joined
Jul 20, 2006
Messages
1,458
I bought a set of spalted burl maple blanks pre-stabilized, and in person the color is slightly lighter and more golden then I'd like. I'm guessin NO since it's all pretty much sealed now but if it is possible what do you use?

pic 1 actual blanks and pic 2 "using photoshop" is what I'd like to get towards "or maybe a little darker"

Blanks1.jpg


Blanks2.jpg
 
I suppose you could try. Working a little oil or wax onto finished, stabilized wood will darken it up some, but it will wear off with normal use. If the wood actually soaks up stain or dye, it's not really stabilized very well.
 
Alcohol based leather dye will do exactly what you want. Wipe it on, and wipe off the excess shortly thereafter.

The Afzelia burl I used on this integral handle was a little lighter and more orange-ish than I wanted. I've used the leather dye trick on about 20 handles in the last 10 years or so and it has done what I wanted every time. Just be careful, and preferably test the dye, color, and penetration on a scrap corner of the wood BEFORE trying it on a finished handle!!! Make sure the test sample has the same surface finish as you intend to put on your handle also, or it won't penetrate the same.

Before and after... :) (this block was stabilized by WSSI, I've also done it with blocks done by K&G)

standard.jpg


standard.jpg
 
maybe a bumb question, but don't you get problems with the dye rubbing off on your hands?
 
No, not at all. Many people have the misconception that stabilized wood is essentially a big block of plastic. Which if it was, would mean nothing would penetrate into it, rather it would just sit on the surface. However, it's not like that at all. It is still porous. The dye will penetrate and dry, just like it does in leather.

I wax the handle when I'm done, but I do that on ALL handles other than synthetics.

I have a shop knife I did this to several years ago, and I've never had the dye come out and onto my hands. )
 
I know of another who uses the oil based leather dye on stabilized wood.
What he showed me was maple burl using leather dye to look walnut colored.
He would wipe on heavy, let sit 1/2 hour and wipe off. Repeat till he liked the look.
Bear in mind this is 3rd hand info.
 
As Nick said, it works. I have done it many times, especially on maple using both the alcohol and oil based dyes. The key is to TEST (at the same final sanded grit) on a piece of left over scrap before you put it on your (almost finished) handle . You may have to play with different colors of dye to get what you are looking for.

Edited to add: After you have wiped off the excess on your test piece, let it dry thoroughly and take a piece of old blue-jean material or even canvas, and rub the living-snotz out of it to remove any dye residues. This will give you a better idea of the final look.

Geezer advice......... no charge.

Robert
 
NickWheeler said:
Alcohol based leather dye will do exactly what you want.
Click to expand...

Great info, Nick. Thanks for sharing.

I hope the OP doesn't mind if I ask Nick (and anyone else who cares to comment) a question that's in a similar vein . . . what's the best way to prevent wood from darkening from use? I usually hand sand my wood scales to 1500 grit, then buff with Renaissance Wax. I've read about the various ways to finish wood, such as tung oil, danish oil, the armor all concoction, etc, and I'm wondering if I should start experimenting with such finishes.

-Shawn Hatcher
 
I put a block of stabilized wood in a jar of water , it did absorb water and gain weight. Makes sense that it would also absorb dye.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top