Canal Street Cutlery: 3 blade Cannitler in D2, UK EDC

[xavierdoc]

Following on from my negative experience described here(external link to Britishblades forum), I decided that since I like the design of the knife and the D2 blades I would gamble on another one.

This time it was in White Buffalo Mica Pearl barf: a synthetic, gaudy, sparkly material.) Not my first choice in handle material but the price was right.

What you get:

Closed:

Three-blades:

Top view:

There isn't much clearance between the sheepsfoot blade and the frame when closed. Might lead to some scratching, might not.

Bottom view:

As per the previous thread (linked above), the blades are D2 and the main blade is pretty stout, especially at the base:

In-hand to illustrate the two main grip options:
Standard:

Choked-up:

Fit and finish is much better than the last CSC Cannitler I had and although there is a tiny bit of side-side blade play in the sheepsfoot blade, it is acceptable (to me.)

The handle scales will be a matter of taste (or lack of it.) Perhaps they'll grow on me. If not I'm going to replace them with some black bufffalo horn I have on the shelf.

I'm pretty happy with this knife so far :thumbup:. I'll update as I gain more experience of it in use.

Cheers,

 

[knarfeng]

Nice photos!

Thanks for posting. Please do let us know how you like it as you use it.

 

[dalee100]

Hi,

Thanks for your review! It's hard luck to get a knife that is less than right for your first go around. It appears you got a much better one this time.

The scales are real art-deco looking to me. Kind of pleasing I think. I too will be interested to hear how you like it after some time with it.

dalee

 

[t1mpani]

Nice set of shots there!

I have to say, this knife is one of my favorite slipjoints from ANY manufacturer in a long time. I have two that are part of my regular EDC rotation and damn but it's a fine knife. The width of the main blade and resultant gradual primary bevel allows it to have a fairly thick and rigid spine without giving up anything in the slicing department, and if you need a narrower tool for detail work you can take your pick of the remaining two blades. Obviously, that's the idea behind any whittler but most recent ones (and many of the old ones) go the narrow route with the main blade too, thereby forcing a thinner spine or more extreme bevel angle---the first making the long blade too weak, the second making it a poor cutter.

Couple that with the D2 blades (my absolute favorite steel for a pocketknife), the round canoe profile that's so easy on pockets and a knife that's just good looking overall, and it's an almost fault-less pattern as far as I'm concerned.

 

[xavierdoc]

Nice set of shots there!

I have to say, this knife is one of my favorite slipjoints from ANY manufacturer in a long time. I have two that are part of my regular EDC rotation and damn but it's a fine knife. The width of the main blade and resultant gradual primary bevel allows it to have a fairly thick and rigid spine without giving up anything in the slicing department, and if you need a narrower tool for detail work you can take your pick of the remaining two blades. Obviously, that's the idea behind any whittler but most recent ones (and many of the old ones) go the narrow route with the main blade too, thereby forcing a thinner spine or more extreme bevel angle---the first making the long blade too weak, the second making it a poor cutter.

Couple that with the D2 blades (my absolute favorite steel for a pocketknife), the round canoe profile that's so easy on pockets and a knife that's just good looking overall, and it's an almost fault-less pattern as far as I'm concerned.

It was features such as those you describe which originally attracted me to the knife. As per the link in my review, I got a dud first time round. However, I really wanted to like the knife and knew I'd get another as I kept thinking about it.

I'm enjoying the knife so far: I'm trying to develop a patina through careful neglect of the working portions of the blades. Might not be easy with D2. I'll update with pics as time goes by.

 

[t1mpani]

I'm trying to develop a patina through careful neglect of the working portions of the blades. Might not be easy with D2.

Nope, that's not going to be easy. You might want to get some ferric acid from Radio Shack and carefully monitor it (for heaven's sake, don't forget about it in there!). Mustard, fruit, etc. may rust it but I doubt they'll darken it. Still, worst thing that can happen is it doesn't work.

 

[neeman]

It is a great knife, enjoy.

Patina on D2 take time and patience, and a lot of use

My Queen Canoe greyed nicely, see the main blade.

 

[kozak6]

It's interesting that the bolster doesn't completely cover the corner of the tang in the closed position.

 

[Will Power]

It's interesting that the bolster doesn't completely cover the corner of the tang in the closed position.

Yes that is significant. What on earth IS the point of using a Copperhead bolster if it doesn't hide the tang corner???:thumbdn:

 

[dalee100]

Hi,

It is kind of odd. But even my Case Canoe doesn't cover the corner closed. though my Gunboat and Butterbean are flush.

dalee

 

[Will Power]

My CASE Copperlocks are all covered, so are the Böker Copperhead and Canoe. I always assumed that was the point of a Copperhead bolster? Perhaps not....