- Joined
- Oct 4, 2012
- Messages
- 3
First BF post!
And now for something completely different.
A while back, UK Canoe Builder and outdoorsman Angelo Young from http://www.canoebushcraft.com/, asked me to make a custom of his own design.
Just like this
It's not inspired by Wilkinson Sword Survival knives or anything like that, it's simply a design divided into the ways that Joe uses a knife.
The brief was; the blade steel had to be stainless, polished to resist salt water as much as possible,
have a nice looking water resistant handle (ideally a hardwood)
with a serrated section mid-blade for the hardest tasks; cutting nets, creels etc (I was intrigued with this part, I had wanted to try this myself a while back and the knife was not going to be used as a chopper, so it didn't need to have a plain edge mid section).
A straight edge near the handle made sense for any precise wood cutting Joe wished to do.
He wanted some lashing holes a hook like line cutter and a pry tip on the haft as well as holes in the handle for lashing ...
...Initially all this made me roll my eyes a bit, but Joe's been paddling and sleeping out more years than I've been around and I trust him, everything he thinks up or makes works, this knife is for him, it's what he wants, so I thought why not?!
I was not keen on using a scandi grind on RWL as it can be a pain to sharpen if it's ever damaged or dulled, but Joe was comfortable sharpening this grind.
I suggested everything from stabilised wood to micarta but Joe just likes wood. I had a tiny piece of Teak from the deck from RRS Discovery, which is superbly water resistant, Joe liked the idea of the wood having some history too.
Originally the knife was just to have eyelets/lanyard tubes but the range of conditions that this knife might see persuaded us to add loveless bolts for strength.
I have tweaked the straight edge to be more useful and made the design slightly narrower (to fit the barstock!) and I added some comfy ergonomics to the handle, but it ended up very close to Joe's original idea.
I hope you like it!
a few WIPs
Design cut out and edges coarse ground.
Rubbed to 400 grit pre-HT
First stage polish
And the finished knife
High polish RWL-34 (equivalent to CPM-154) @HRC 60
Zero Scandi Grind (slightly hollow)
Burmese Teak scales
White styrene liners
Stainless fittings
We decided a full cover sheath would contain the pry-section and prevent any injury it may cause, uncovered.
Joe doesn't wear a knife on his belt, so a simple D-ring sufficed.
I suggested making a cutout to match the line cutter so the knife could be used, sheathed. Joe liked the idea, so we went for it.
I also added some drain holes in the back of the sheath.
Pleased to report it's been out for a go and it's working as intended
Thanks for looking, thanks for having me on the forum
Slainte Mhor
CG
And now for something completely different.
A while back, UK Canoe Builder and outdoorsman Angelo Young from http://www.canoebushcraft.com/, asked me to make a custom of his own design.
Just like this
It's not inspired by Wilkinson Sword Survival knives or anything like that, it's simply a design divided into the ways that Joe uses a knife.
The brief was; the blade steel had to be stainless, polished to resist salt water as much as possible,
have a nice looking water resistant handle (ideally a hardwood)
with a serrated section mid-blade for the hardest tasks; cutting nets, creels etc (I was intrigued with this part, I had wanted to try this myself a while back and the knife was not going to be used as a chopper, so it didn't need to have a plain edge mid section).
A straight edge near the handle made sense for any precise wood cutting Joe wished to do.
He wanted some lashing holes a hook like line cutter and a pry tip on the haft as well as holes in the handle for lashing ...
...Initially all this made me roll my eyes a bit, but Joe's been paddling and sleeping out more years than I've been around and I trust him, everything he thinks up or makes works, this knife is for him, it's what he wants, so I thought why not?!
I was not keen on using a scandi grind on RWL as it can be a pain to sharpen if it's ever damaged or dulled, but Joe was comfortable sharpening this grind.
I suggested everything from stabilised wood to micarta but Joe just likes wood. I had a tiny piece of Teak from the deck from RRS Discovery, which is superbly water resistant, Joe liked the idea of the wood having some history too.
Originally the knife was just to have eyelets/lanyard tubes but the range of conditions that this knife might see persuaded us to add loveless bolts for strength.
I have tweaked the straight edge to be more useful and made the design slightly narrower (to fit the barstock!) and I added some comfy ergonomics to the handle, but it ended up very close to Joe's original idea.
I hope you like it!
a few WIPs
Design cut out and edges coarse ground.
Rubbed to 400 grit pre-HT
First stage polish
And the finished knife
High polish RWL-34 (equivalent to CPM-154) @HRC 60
Zero Scandi Grind (slightly hollow)
Burmese Teak scales
White styrene liners
Stainless fittings
We decided a full cover sheath would contain the pry-section and prevent any injury it may cause, uncovered.
Joe doesn't wear a knife on his belt, so a simple D-ring sufficed.
I suggested making a cutout to match the line cutter so the knife could be used, sheathed. Joe liked the idea, so we went for it.
I also added some drain holes in the back of the sheath.
Pleased to report it's been out for a go and it's working as intended
Thanks for looking, thanks for having me on the forum
Slainte Mhor
CG
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