Can't bring out the color in my micarta

[DirtyBrad]

This is about the final thing on the list for my first knife and I'm stumped.

I made it according to the directions on British Blades. I used Bondo marine fiberglass resin and 25 layers of clean, black, cotton t-shirts. This was my fourth or fifth batch and it came out well.

I cut and shaped with hand saws and a Dremel with sanding drum. That produced a world of dust, which was light gray. When I'd roughed them out, they were gray and fuzzy feeling. I hand sanded with 220, then 400, then a quick buff with 600.

The problem is that both pieces are still a very dull gray. If I wet them, they become a very nice black, but then back to gray when they dry, which happens quick. Same with using a cotton polishing wheel and some red compound.

What am I missing? When the handles are wet and deep black, the knife looks fantastic. When they dry, it looks awful.

 

[J. Doyle]

I think you need to go a bit finer on your sanding. Try really sanding good to at least 800 grit. Make sure you really sand them good because any scratches will show in the end.

After that, try buffing with a buffer or by hand. This should help you out.

If you like the feel of the coarser grits, that's fine but to my knowledge it's either one or the other. The less sanded stuff is grippier but usually has a pretty heavy matte finish. The glossy polished stuff is usually buffed to 1000 grit or more.

For black micarta, you want to buff your finish with pink compound. WHite or green is okay too but pink is best. At least that's how I have best results with micarta.

 

[george tichbourne]

I have been never been able to buff resin to a high finish. I have found that using superglue coatings will seal the surface very well and I know I can buff it to a high gloss.

George

 

[Hankins]

Couple things from my experience making MiKarta
T-Shirt material will always give a dull finish, what shines is the binder.
There are three ways to get a darker finish:
Super Glue
WD40
Sand to 1000 grit and try using Renaissance Wax then hand buff with scratchless Pink very lightly. Lesser grits will result in white spots.

 

[J. Doyle]

I have been never been able to buff resin to a high finish. I have found that using superglue coatings will seal the surface very well and I know I can buff it to a high gloss.

George

This is a method I've never tried but I think I might sometime. Thanks for the tip.:thumbup:

 

[DirtyBrad]

What type of super glue and how do you apply it? I'm imagining a bunch of brushes bonded to my handle.

 

[Zog the Troll]

just about any brand superglue will work, just make sure it is the thin stuff instead of the gel (want it to soak into the surface of the material). As far as spreading it, you know those credit card offers you've likely been getting in the mail lately? Well, the plastic fake credit cards some companies send with their junk mail work great as spreaders/stirrers for superglue, epoxy, and the like.

 

[Jim Adams Customs]

Use a Black dye. I use a black leather dye.

 

[GrizzlyBear]

Never thought about leather dye, good tip!

 

[M.Griffin]

In my experience, you have to sand with sharp paper starting at 220, then step up through the grits (320,400,600,1000,1500) making sure all the fuzzy spots are gone. The sharp paper is the best way to get rid of the fuzziness. I go up through 1500 grit then just a quick pass on the buffer and it gets really nice looking. Hope this helps.

-Mike

 

[Bill DeShivs]

Paste wax will help, too.

 

[sweet]

I've been using mineral oil for a couple years now, its clear and odorless, brings the color right out.