Can't get convex edge sharp. Help.

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Mar 7, 2008
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I have tried to put a convex edge on one of my izulas and I can't seem to get it sharp. I have watched a bunch of the youtube vids and I can't figure out what I am doing wrong. I haven't used a strop yet. (have one on order) Any tips/ hints?
 
Try wet/dry sandpaper on a piece of hard leather, keep it wet and rinse the swarf often.

I use alternating strokes until the blade shaves.
 
Colour your edge with a marker and then try to sharpen it to view if you are hitting the actual edge.
 
Colour your edge with a marker and then try to sharpen it to view if you are hitting the actual edge.

I would think it would be pointless to do that since he re profiled the edge to convex to no matter what he will be taking off metal up to the edge.
 
I have tried to put a convex edge on one of my izulas and I can't seem to get it sharp. I have watched a bunch of the youtube vids and I can't figure out what I am doing wrong. I haven't used a strop yet. (have one on order) Any tips/ hints?

You are probably pushing too hard. Use sandpaper over a mouse pad, with a LIGHT touch. Basically the weight of the knife.

second, get a strop. They are tools of god. you will end up using a strop more than any other sharpening tool.
 
what grit you using?
make sure to use light presure
conves edges wont be sharp from just sandpaper until 1500-2000 grit, up till then they wont be sharp until you strop them.
 
sharpening can be pretty complex man... you must remove that BUR properlly or it will break off leaving you with a garbage edge... check out murray carter on youtube sharpening with cement stone and cardboard and study study thats all i can say... im learning myself.
 
I have gone from 400 to 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper and it never really felt sharp. I bought a strop, compound, and some 2000 grit paper today. I am now happy to say that I have finally gotten my Izula (and a cheap practice knife) shaving sharp. I rewatched some vids, heeded some advice and I have an edge I am happy with (along with a great polish) Thanks guys for the help.
 
Work on getting your edge sharp at lower grits, you should see shaving sharp at 400 grit.
 
My first attempts at sharpening a convex edge made it hair poppin' sharp. Later on however, I couldn't quite get the same results. What I was doing wrong was that I had the spine too high up, creating too wide of an edge. Try to only slightly lift the spine from the sandpaper (after having laid out the blade flat on the sandpaper — which is on top of a mousepad) and use only slight pressure when honing. This sorted my sharpening issues.
 
JRE industries and bark river have convex sharpening systems, the results you will get are gonna be exactly the same a mouse pad / sandpaper though.
 
My first attempts at sharpening a convex edge made it hair poppin' sharp. Later on however, I couldn't quite get the same results. What I was doing wrong was that I had the spine too high up, creating too wide of an edge. Try to only slightly lift the spine from the sandpaper (after having laid out the blade flat on the sandpaper — which is on top of a mouse pad) and use only slight pressure when honing. This sorted my sharpening issues.

Good point. The angle, density (softness of the backup material like mouse pad or leather), and the angle held while sharpening all affect the termination angle at the edge.

Yeah, the marker trick won't work for convex grinds.

The marker on the edge will help you visualize all the above and does help on a convex edge. It is just not the same as a flat bevel, but still works.

Gary
 
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