Cant Get my Damn Knife Sharp With Lansky:grumpy:

Z

Zakk Wylde

Joined
Apr 11, 2011
Messages
165
Good evening folks;
I received my lansky deluxe system(natural stones) and put it to work.I have made a research about how to use it before buying it.So here what ive done
I clamped my knife solid.No wiggle.
Flatten the rods.
Mark the edge with permanent marker.
I reprofiled byrd meadowlark with xcoarse and start sharpening it.after xcoarse and coarse edge feeled sharp.When i finishede sharpening with xfine stone knife still snags on paper,cant pop hair.(i go only up when sharpening)Still same sharpness.
I dont think i made sth wrong so need your help.I still have to try?:D
Btw i started reprofiling endura 4 saber ground :grumpy:for sharpening omg it takes too much.Still on the same side ^^
 
hmm ive checked some stones and rods, and when i tighten the screw of x fine stone, rod moves up or down.even i setted them flat they move up.Also stone is not flat :(i dont know if i can flatten a ceramic stone.
 
Not sure what to tell you. All I did was follow the instructions on my Lansky and I've been able to get all my knives shaving sharp. I'm very pleased with it.
 
Make absolutely sure you've formed a burr on the full length of the cutting edge, before moving beyond the first hone. The edge needs to be completely apexed to be truly sharp, and the burr along the edge's full length is what confirms the apex. When you get there, turn the blade over and 'flip' the burr with the coarsest hone, so it's leaning in the other direction. Beyond that, the other hones will be used to gradually reduce the burr and refine the scratch pattern on the bevel. Getting that burr initially, is what will make the rest of the work a lot easier. The process of reducing and removing the burr should be done very gently, using very light pressure with the hones. The idea is to just remove that burr, while 'sneaking up' on the apex of the edge, so you don't overdo it and over-grind the apex. Most of the burr should be gone by the time you've finished with the 2nd hone. The rest of the hones will be used mainly for polishing the bevel. Should have a 'fogged mirror' finish from the fine, and a near-mirror with the UF.

Don't worry too much about trying to flatten the ceramic hone. I've done it with two of mine (the fine and UF), using a diamond hone. In retrospect, I don't think what I gained from that was worth the work involved in doing it. Takes a very long time to abrade ceramics, even with diamond.
 
Thanks sir.I think didnt payed that much attention to the burr.Using oil and marker is gonna make harder to see burrs?Cus i havent seen a burr on my knives while sharpening so i dont know what it looks like.I need a magnifying glass or just bare eyes?
Alright im not gonna mess with ceramic stone:D
Btw im gonna continue reprofiling my endura4 saber so do you have any tips for it?Ive setted 20 degree for it.
 
Best way to check for the burr is with a good magnifier (10X or better) and BRIGHT light. The good light source actually makes it much easier, and you could use less magnification if the light is very good. The burr itself will look like a paper-thin sliver of metal along the edge, and it will usually 'lean' towards the opposite side, as this sliver gets 'pushed' over in that direction by the hones. Removing it usually involves flipping the blade over a time or two, so the burr gets bent back & forth, until it breaks away. Any remnants of it can be gently (very gently) filed away with the finer hones.

20 per side should be fine for your Endura (I've done mine to lower than that, and it's held up fine). Otherwise, just treat it like any other blade when sharpening on the Lansky. Be patient, don't rush. It does take a while, but patience will be rewarded in the end. :)
 
20 per side?:D i worked on one side 15 min :DYour hones are diamond?if they make THAT much difference i will bought them though:D and still havent met the apex at some places(old edge disappearing new one coming)
 
No, no. By '20 per side', I was referring to the angle setting you mentioned. Not the time (I wish). ;)

Edit: By the way, a supplemental diamond hone can speed things up a bit. An XC or Coarse diamond would do the re-profiling work, then use the other standard hones for finishing.
 
Oh god my fault.^^ good to hear that cus i was about throw knife away from window:D I started again for sharpening byrd meadowlark(8cr13mov) but there are still some marker on the edge.Hone is not touching that part of the edge.Should i move to the 25 degree or keep stroke it?(my arm tired:D)
Im gonna buy diamonds some time.
 
Zakk Wylde said:
Oh god my fault.^^ good to hear that cus i was about throw knife away from window:D I started again for sharpening byrd meadowlark(8cr13mov) but there are still some marker on the edge.Hone is not touching that part of the edge.Should i move to the 25 degree or keep stroke it?(my arm tired:D)
Im gonna buy diamonds some time.
Click to expand...

If you're getting tired, put the gear down and take a break. Eat a good meal, regenerate & refresh. Come back to it when you're feeling energized again. I know you want to get it done right now, but patience always pays off in the end. You'll get much better results if you don't try to rush or force it. That 8Cr13MoV will take a very fine edge. I have a handful of knives in that steel (another maker), and I've been pretty impressed with it.
 
Alright break time:DYeah ,as you sad i want that edge now cus i waited this package for 24 days and im little unpatient.But always listen what experienced says,if you say be patince im with that:D
Thanks
 
Reaching apex is harder at tip of the blade?Still tip and belly needs to reprofiled.
And i give up sharpening 8cr13mov it shouldnt take that long.It is sharp now,but not where i want.It is possible that after 30 min of work on one side still no burr?its normal or i do sth wrong.
 
When sharpening, grind up and down don't just do one-way strokes. Go fast, with light pressure. Like you're polishing metal. If some parts, like the tip, need more work just spend more time on that area alone. You can work on the edge in sections. First the base then the middle then the tip. Do this for all stones. At the end of each stage of stone do alternating full strokes once per side to remove most of the burr. Also use very low pressure on these final strokes. If you think you're doing it light, do it even lighter.
 
Zakk Wylde said:
And i give up sharpening 8cr13mov it shouldnt take that long.It is sharp now,but not where i want.It is possible that after 30 min of work on one side still no burr?
Click to expand...

I recently reprofiled 8cr18mov (Spyderco Tenacious) on a medium SiC stone. It took three sessions because I got tired. Total time spent was around 3 hours. I spent at least 1.5 hours, perhaps 2 on ONE side of the blade. My blade had uneven bevels so I had to spend more time on one side than the other. I didn't do a very dramatic change to the blade. I probably took it from 22 or 23 degrees per side, down to 20 per side.

Removing metal takes time. If your angle is correct, you *WILL* get there.

Brian.
 
i go up and down when reprofiling, only go up when sharpening. Alright im gonna work more.Wish i bought xcoarse diamond hone :(

I wanna sharpen my other knives (para2,tenacious,recon 1.) do i need reprofiling before sharpening or angle is gonna fit?Because no one can force me to reprofile s30v now:D
And when sharpening, stone should remove the marker(i use permanent marker at edge when sharpening) at the apex or along the edge?
 
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