Can't get my sebbie sharp enough

bulgron

bulgron

Joined
May 19, 2005
Messages
12,709
I'm getting quite frustrated with my sebbie. I've been trying various sharpening methods to get it to that "shaving edge" but without much success. Yes I have a sharpmaker. But it seems like no matter how long I work on it, the knife just won't get to where I want it to be.

I bought the knife new, but it simply wasn't all that sharp right from the get-go and it's only gotten worse over time. I'll admit that I'm probably not the world's best at putting an edge on a knife, but this is ridiculous.

I'm assuming at this point that I somehow screwed up the edge in all my struggles, so I'm pretty close to just sending the thing back to CRK and having them fix it up for me. But first I want to try the famous magic marker trick that people talk about around here, because I'm pretty sure I'm not hitting the edge like I'm supposed to.

Question is, what do you use for a magic marker? I went to my local office supply store recently, but they only had permanent markers (sharpies). For some reason, I'm reluctant to apply a sharpie to my knife. :)

Thanks for any help....
 
Also don't you have someone locally that does professional sharpening for help?
 
bulgron said:
You mean like a whiteboard dry erase marker? Yeah, we have those. Is that what people use?
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whiteboard dry erase marker? Yes

I always do a test area first to make sure you can clean it off.

Most of these markers will clean up with water.

But, do a test spot to make sure that it will come off and does not stain.
 
If it was my knife with this problem.

I would box it up and ship to Chris Reeve with a note about the problem.

They do have great Customer Service after all.

And a knife like this deserves the Best.:thumbup:
 
I use a Sharpie for testing. It comes off with WD-40.

Color it in along the entire edge. Then do about 10 strokes per side with the Sharpmaker. If the black is gone at the very edge on both sides, all along the blade, then you're okay. If at any point the very edge is black, it means the Sharpmaker rod is not hitting the edge, and is therefore not sharpening it.

My small regular was thin enough on the straighter portion of the blade that the Sharpmaker rods hit the edge, but the curved portion near the tip was far too obtuse.

If the rods don't hit the edge on yours, you've got options. You could switch to another sharpening system that has more obtuse settings. You could learn to sharpen with sandpaper on a mousepad, which preserves the convex factory edge. Or, if you want to continue to use the Sharpmaker you could reprofile the edge. Some here have sent there Sebbies to CRK with instructions to thin the edge to a certain angle, and have apparently been pleased.

I finally got an Edge Pro about a month ago, and reprofiled several knives, including my small regular. It gives a good-looking uniform edge that can be mirror polished with 1000 and 3000 grit tapes. I thinned the small regular way down, and now it cuts much better and is very easy to maintain with the Sharpmaker. I highly recommend the Edge Pro.
 
Don't be afraid to use the Sharpie. It will come off as you sharpen if you are doing it right. You can also use alcohol to remove it from the blade. I have about 4 different sharpening systems. Spyderco, DMT, Lanskey and Water stones. It is important the you hold the blade the same every time which is perpendicular to the table. This is a must if you want to get the required edge. DMT and Lanskey hold the sharpeners at the proper angle for you. When you sharpen the knife you should sharpen one side until you get a small burr on the opposite side that you are sharpening. You can feel this with your fingernail. Then proceed to the other side until that burr is now on the opposite side. At this point alternate back and forth until the burr is gone. Follow up with stropping and you should have a hair popping edge. This is one of many ways to get that edge you are looking for. Good luck.
Ron
 
Thanks for the comments everyone. I'm definitely going to play around with a sharpie tonight.

I have two questions: first, does anyone know of a video somewhere that teaches how to sharpen with sandpaper and a mousepad? I've read about this, but I think it would be very helpful to see the actual technique.

Also, KeithAM said, "Some here have sent there Sebbies to CRK with instructions to thin the edge to a certain angle, and have apparently been pleased." Does anyone know what that requested angle is?

Thanks
 
rpttrsn said:
When you sharpen the knife you should sharpen one side until you get a small burr on the opposite side that you are sharpening.
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This is something that I haven't been doing. Instead, I've been alternating sides on each stroke. Thanks for the tip!
 
555 said:
I was thinking of a high end chef knife store or supplier in your area might know where this is done.
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If I looked around I could probably find someone.

But I want to learn how to do this so that I don't have to depend on others.
 
bulgron said:
If I looked around I could probably find someone.

But I want to learn how to do this so that I don't have to depend on others.
Click to expand...

I can understand this.

I try to be as independent as possible too.:thumbup:
 
Here's 1 online tutorial about convex sharpening:

http://www.barkriverknives.com/docs/convex.pdf

Here's another:

http://home.nycap.rr.com/sosak/convex.htm

Keep in mind, however, that you will likely both scratch and polish your blade if you convex with mousepad and sandpaper. At least some of the tumbled finish will be gone.

IIRC, Dave H. has sent a Sebbie in for reprofiling. At the very least it's worth a call to CRK. But for the Edge Pro, I would probably have gone the CRK route eventually.

Most people use the alternating strokes with the Sharpmaker -- that's what the instructions say to do. The sharpmaker does result in a burr, but it's not usually as pronounced.

If you want to be self-sufficient, and also want to preserve the good looks of your high-quality knife, go with the Edge Pro.
 
If you send it back to CRK you can ask them to put a 15 degree angle on it. That way, you can sharpen it at 20 degrees on the sharpmaker and you won't have to remove much metal. I have an edge pro and can't recommend it enough for reprofiling.
 
I always reprofile my Sebbies when I get a new one. If the sharpmaker doesn't work for you, get a clamping system.
 
I did send a knife in to CRK for reprofilling, I asked for 20 or below so I could sharpen it on a sharpmaker. Ot came back better.

I sent another in to Tom Krein, I now think that's just a better way to do it.
 
I've heard nothing but good things about Tom Krein. On my next Seb, I might send it to him for a reprofile.
 
it's not too difficult to sharpen a sebbi with a convex edge without scratching the rest of the blade, you just have to remember that it's only the edge not a full convex grind
 
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