Can't get the wobble out!!!

E

ElCuchillo

BANNED
Joined
Oct 3, 2006
Messages
713
Dang it!! I just bought a Schrade Uncle Henry, and no matter what I do, I can't seem to get the wobble out of the blade!!! The Sheepsfoot and main clip blade are on one spring, and I can't get the Sheepsfoot to lose it's side-to-side movement. I've used a vice, used a towel and hammer method, and it will lose it for a little while, but as soon as I start using it, or start sharpening it, it returns. What gives?
 
Schrade used a keyhole construction, so squeezing or hitting the bolster isn't going to effect that. I don't know of a fix sorry.
 
You'll just have to live it, Cuch. Its the nature of the beast with those, like db said, they use a different construction. But look at the bright side, it did'nt seem to affect all those old geezers who used those old slippys for decades with some sideplay. Almost all the really old knives I've looked at had some. But the nature of the way a slippy works, it won't affect things like usability and cutting. :thumbup:
 
Just as information...

I'm borrowing this picture from a fellow forum member (orvet) who was kind enough to show us the Dave Swinden designed construction, while working on a project. The design has many strong points, but it is almost impossible to cure any side-to-side wobble that develops around the keyhole area.

2cs6pvr.jpg


As mentioned, use it carefully and it should still serve you like a good old soldier.



Bill
 
El Lobo said:
Just as information...

I'm borrowing this picture from a fellow forum member (orvet) who was kind enough to show us the Dave Swinden designed construction, while working on a project. The design has many strong points, but it is almost impossible to cure any side-to-side wobble that develops around the keyhole area.

2cs6pvr.jpg


As mentioned, use it carefully and it should still serve you like a good old soldier.



Bill
Click to expand...

Good photo!:thumbup:

I've never run across any other brand knife that had that type of construction. Why did they go that direction, and what were some of the advantages of the key-hole assembley?
 
Well now,

There are some folks over in the Schrade Forum that could probably give you a more detailed answer...maybe even have some internal correspondence, or salesmen's information.
But, I'll try a couple of points ( :D )...
I'm sure Schrade felt it was a labor saver not having to deal with pivot pins...this, then kept the cost of the knife down to the consumer...and, the user couldn't "pop" the pivot pins when abuse...er, using the knife in an unconventional manner. I'm sure there are probably other reasons as well.

Bill

P. S.
I'll go ask in the Schrade forum...be right back.
 
For those of you who owned Old Timers, were they made the same way? Did ya'll have to deal with the wobble too?
 
The USA Schrade Old Timers rarely have blade wobble. I have over 60 of them and the worst one is a Limited Edition Barlow, one or two others are slightly loose, and the remainder are very well made.

I'm not certain, but I'd guess that the Old Timers and UH product lines share the same construction method.

I'd also expect the Chinese-Taylor Schrades to not be as consistent in quality as the originals. The few imports that I've seen are definitely not finished as well as the real Schrades. Maybe you have one of those?

-Bob
 
Yeh it is the USA made ones that have the keyhole construction. I have no idea how the new ones are made.
 


A detail from Dave Swinden's patent. The loose blade isn't caused by the keyhole construction. If it was faulty, the handle/bolster/liner half would be loose. I don't know that the wobble can be cured though. With patience and practice, they can be popped apart to see though. I've taken several apart by pressing down on one half while lifting the other. I use a table edge. Hard to explain, but if you look at the assembly, you are moving the large pin head down through the narrow slot to the round hole where it will come out.
Muskratman ans Orvet are more familiar with these assemblies than I am.

Codger
 
A disassembled 897UH. As you can see, the covers (scales) are pinned to the liner, as are the end bolsters. Two of these assemblies are attached via "keyhole" pins to the blade/spring, center pivot assembly. Beating on them (or compressing them) has no effect upon the blade tension.



Codger

Confused yet?
 
ElCuchillo said:
For those of you who owned Old Timers, were they made the same way? Did ya'll have to deal with the wobble too?
Click to expand...

Bob W is right, rarely is there a problem with wobble in a knife of the Swinden Key construction.

I have successfully tightened one Uncle Henry that I had that was loose, but it is a delicate operation that involves disassembling the whole knife into component parts. It is easy to over tighten it and not be able to reassemble the knife.

The quick easy fix is to cut the rocker pin, dissemble the knife, cut out the Swinden keys, then drill out the bolsters and use a nickle silver pins to pin both ends together. Problem solved. Next time you can peen the bolsters to tighten it, like any other knife. :thumbup:

If you have any other questions you can email me at dalervincent@comcast.net

Dale
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top