Can't put a good edge on my Scrapper 5

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POINTMANDDT

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Mar 3, 2008
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Okay so I have a scrapper 5 LE (first scrapyard I have bought, all other knives are busse's). This seems like a great knife and feels great in my hand. The only problem I have is I can not put a scary sharp edge on it for my life. The best I can do is a utility edge. This is very frustrating because my Hell Razor can whittle hair and all my other Busse's can shave. Is there a difference in the edge type between the two knives? I think I may have to back bevel it to get anywhere, but before I do I want to ask for some help or experience here.
 
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How are you sharpening it? Are you keeping the same angles or changing them to personal preference? Are you affecting the real "edge" or just buffing up on the shoulders of the edge?

Sharpening is both the easiest and hardest thing I ever do. LOL I've got a SHBA that has such an obtuse angle to start that I've STILL got areas that are practically flat. I can't thin it any more. It wouldn't shave when I started. But for a spot near the tip and a spot near the choil, the whole thing shaves now.
 
It's INFI and the edge is still pretty thick. I would just stick with the factory grind bevel and watch it you don't re-profile unless that is what you WANT to do. Should sharpen right up. By the way, it's not a Swamp Rat, but a Scrapyard knife. Hence the Scrapper :D
 
Dennis in MA said:
How are you sharpening it? Are you keeping the same angles or changing them to personal preference? Are you affecting the real "edge" or just buffing up on the shoulders of the edge?

Sharpening is both the easiest and hardest thing I ever do. LOL I've got a SHBA that has such an obtuse angle to start that I've STILL got areas that are practically flat. I can't thin it any more. It wouldn't shave when I started. But for a spot near the tip and a spot near the choil, the whole thing shaves now.
Click to expand...

I've used a sharp maker, micro honing, and a slow grinder and strop. I did notice that the edge is pretty fat compared to others. But, I wish I knew what I was doing wrong.
 
Iboschi said:
It's INFI and the edge is still pretty thick. I would just stick with the factory grind bevel and watch it you don't re-profile unless that is what you WANT to do. Should sharpen right up. By the way, it's not a Swamp Rat, but a Scrapyard knife. Hence the Scrapper :D
Click to expand...

Sorry about that I thought swamp rat and scrap yard knives were from the same maker. I just can't figure out why I can't put a scary sharp edge on it??
 
If I had to guess, it's your technique. You really can get a fat edge to shave. But because the angles are so wide, it takes a steady hand. (I'm an Edge-Pro fan. Fairly idiot-proof. Heck, they could put my pic on the box for that one.)

BUT, it could be the fat edge, too.

I'd give the Scrapyard a call and see if you can ship it back for a thinner edge. Let the pros do it. Then you just have to maintain it. If you typically do a good job sharpening, this will save you the time of figuring out what is wrong with this knife.
 
Sandpaper on glass or convex the edge, Of all methods sandpaper seems to produce the best edge on SR101.
 
i just fixed up a dumpster mutt for a member who goes by baran. he said it cuts like a hot knife through butter. i stripped the finish and convexed the edge. send me an email and i'll help you get it sharp.
 
I am with Dennis on the EdgePro Apex! The EdgePro ranks up there with the greatest inventions of all time (others include: 470NE, 375 H&H, 1911a1's (in .45 ACP), INFI, SR-101, Harley Davidson Motorcycles, and Kettle Cooked Potato Chips).

I run with stones from 110gr > 220gr (set edge) through 330>600>800>1000 to the to the 2000gr tapes (set micro bevel and polish) > 3000gr tapes (finishing polish and finalize micro bevel). All the tapes are used on dead flat plate glass covered blanks.

I add a very small "micro bevel" on the very bottom of the edge that is normally 1.5 to 2 degrees steeper then the main part of the edge. It is literally so short that you cannot see it clearly with some magnification (e.g. loop) but it is there. This allows a fantastically sharp edge but with just a hair more steel behind the area that takes the most abuse during cutting. I find this is an outstanding technique for INFI or SR-101 sharpening (although it works well on a lot of other steels too).

The combo for me produces an edge that is tough as hell but very east to touch up even in the field if needed.

Dr. H
 
both of my busse knives needed to be reprofiled, the edge they came with were super thick, not sure why
 
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