Can't search. How to protect knives from RUST

robertmegar

robertmegar

Joined
May 3, 2005
Messages
959
Search function is not working. Recently found one of my favorite knives to have some rust dots. Knife was in sheath but it's a double edge, shaving sharp knife so I have to cover it with something. I am in the market for a blade rust protectant and tips to save my blades.
 
robertmegar said:
Search function is not working. Recently found one of my favorite knives to have some rust dots. Knife was in sheath but it's a double edge, shaving sharp knife so I have to cover it with something. I am in the market for a blade rust protectant and tips to save my blades.
Click to expand...

I'm assuming your blade isn't a carbon steel, so I won't go into patinizing the blade. So, if it's stain "less," you might consider using Tuff Cloth, or Marine Tuff Cloth, if you live near the ocean, or if you use your blade in marine conditions.

The active ingredient in Tuff Cloth isn't oil based, so the blade won't have a slippery feel once it dries. I've used it on my knives with good results so far (no rust).

I've applied it on a carbon steel Schrade stockman and now I can't even patinize the blades on that one.
 
They are mostly "stainless" like AUS8, 154, 440c, aus6....

Does tuff cloth comes in liquid or only in swipes? [never used it]
 
If it's stainless and not bleadblasted then get a good metal polish like Flitz or Simichrome and polish the blades whenever they're looking a little dull or have small rust spots developing. If they're beadblasted or carbon steel then use one of the better protectants out there. I prefer FP-10, Breakfree CLP, Ballistol, and Tuff Glide. If it were going to be used to cut food then the Ballistol or mineral oil is reccomended. You don't need a thick gooey film on the blade, just enough to give it a light sheen.

Edit: Tuff Cloth comes in a small (usually resealable) bag and only in cloth form, Tuff Glide however is pretty much what the stuff in the cloth is, and you can use that as an alternative. If the cloth ever dries out, just add a very small amount of oderless mineral spirts (available at local hardware store) or Tuff Glide and it's good to go, the mineral spirts just act as a carrier for a dry film lubricants and protectants in Tuff cloth/glide. Marine Tuff Cloth is a super heavy duty version, and uses some other stuff that's supposed to leave a (relatively) thick film on the blade.
 
Tuf Cloth is basically a piece of cloth soaked with Tuf Glide. I have been wiping my knives, stainless and carbon, with a rag and Tuf Glide with very good results, absolutely no rust.

Would recommend that you purchase a piece of Tuf Cloth (for the convenience) and a bottle of Tuf Glide to keep your Tuf Cloth damp. Tuf Cloth comes in quite a large piece, approx 1' x 1'. You can cut it into several pieces and stoire in a film cannister. This way, you can make sure that you will always have a bit accessible. This is what I do now.
 
Tuf-Glide or Tuf-Cloth work great for me. If you must leave it in a sheath (which most of us won't reccomend), look into Renaissance (Ren) Wax. It's completely neutral, so it works great on metals, woods, bone, etc. It'll leave a durable coating that won't soak into a leather sheath like Tuf-Glide or other oil will.
 
Planterz said:
Tuf-Glide or Tuf-Cloth work great for me. If you must leave it in a sheath (which most of us won't reccomend), look into Renaissance (Ren) Wax. It's completely neutral, so it works great on metals, woods, bone, etc. It'll leave a durable coating that won't soak into a leather sheath like Tuf-Glide or other oil will.
Click to expand...

I can understand why you wouldn't want to leave a knife in a leather sheath for long term storage. But, I don't see why you shouldn't if the sheath is nylon or kydex.
 
Kydex is probably fine, so long as you're sure it's dry inside. Nylon is a little less sure, since they can retain moisture. Like, if you're using the knife and the blade is wet, placed back into the sheath, then when not in use, the blade is treated but the sheath isn't, you might have problems.

Leather of course is the worst, since the chemicals used to tan/cure/dye the leather can wreak havoc on a blade.
 
Mad Dog Knives XF-7 weapons lubricant it getting great press for it's rust inhibition properties. It's used on knives and automatic guns. Comes in a tube that you squeeze out some and just spread it around.
 
I use CLP/Break Free gun lube and cleaner on my carbon knives - no rust. I take my L6 Bowie with me outing often, and it's not even shown any signs. I wipe a cloth wet with clp, then let it sit for a few hours, then wipe it off for storage or use.

WYK
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top