Can't seem to close my Large Espada

B

Bits

Joined
Aug 11, 2019
Messages
5
I just received my Large Espada today and it's my first EDC folder.. and the issue i'm having with it is that no matter how much pressure i apply on the portion to fold the blade back in it won't budge at all..
 
Tri Ad locks can be very difficult when new.

Push the lockback down on the corner of a workbench or something similar to release the blade. You might have to cycle the knife many times like this. It will eventually break in.
 
I recommend using the ball of your thumb to disengage the lock, rather than the tip, until it breaks in.

I'm used to disengaging back locks with the tip of my thumb, but with the Tri-Ad I always have to remind myself to switch to pressing directly with the bone, not with the meat of my thumb.

Enjoy your Espada!
 
Now do that over and over and over, eventually it will smooth out and work great!

Called lock stick, my Golden Eye was pretty bad too. I disassembled it, smoothed out (600 grit sandpaper) the mating surfaces and applied some graphite (pencil). After a day working with it it's now very smooth.
 
Hahaha..thanks again for all the help everyone. Looks like i might have to work on my thumb strength for a while until the disengage lock brakes in
 
Bits said:
Hahaha..thanks again for all the help everyone. Looks like i might have to work on my thumb strength for a while until the disengage lock brakes in
Click to expand...
I use the side of my index finger it is more boney than the end of my thumb.

Personally I haven't found Cold Steel Tri Ad locks to break in much. I usually disassemble the knife an finish the job the factory started. If you are handy you can smooth and tweak the lock to improve it's function immensely. I have done this on CS as large as my Holdout I.
On my small Voyager I took a round hard rubber dowel ( a schrader valve off a bicycle tube) and clamped it down on the lock release bar using a small woodworking clamp. This over traveled the lock bar a little and bent the spring so it doesn't take unreasonable effort to release the lock. I mean Hell this is a tiny knife why all the super strength spring rate in the lock ? ? ?

Photos :

Over traveling the lock bar on the Small Voyager
IMG_4633.jpg


This little Mini Tuff Lite is particularly nasty lock release wise. It was my first Cold Steel. I just put up with it and press on the lock bar with the side of my index finger.
I love the Large Voyager by the way. No problem there ! ! !
IMG_4344.jpg

Sorry, I haven't taken any photos of a dismantled Tri Ad to refine it. If it isn't clear what to do once you get it apart you probably shouldn't be doing it anyway. it is hard to describe other than you can get the lock to release a fraction sooner and unless you spine whack your knife ever day and hoist engines with it you won't be compromising the function. Also once the lock releases if you file it right (diamond file) the act of folding the blade will help lift the lock as you fold it and you won't have to keep applying force to the lock bar. Good luck.

Photos just for phun.
IMG_4261.jpg
IMG_4262.JPG
IMG_3426.jpg
 
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I tapped mine with a rubber mallet a couple of times to unstick it on 3 occasions, then dropped some oil in. Problem resolved.
 
I've had some mackinacs that were like this. I left them half open for a few weeks, safely and away from anywhere someone or myself could get cut or harmed, and problem was gone. some folks will say springs arent supposed to break in like this but they did. had two of them same way. it did take weeks though not a couple days.....good luck.....
 
Sometimes the lock stick resolves from cycling the action. Other times you need to gently sand the mating surfaces.
 
Leave your knife with the blade half way open for a couple of weeks. Then see if it s easier to close.
I had to do that twice with a couple of American Lawmen. Now they re fine.

I don t recommend taking the knife apart to adjust the spring. Enough said.
 
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leaving them open doesn't always work. if you take it apart to alter it make sure you only alter the blade where the lock catches. it only takes removal of a millimeter or two of the blade catch at a 45 degree angle. removing metal from the lock will resort in up and down play in the blade. i have altered OD1's, and recently Black Talon II's. this fix works and i have noticed no determent to the lock strength.
 
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