Can't sharpen my folder properly

S

Steinmann

Joined
Jan 12, 2010
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99
Bought a cheap MTech Ballistic folder. Was a bit surprised by its good quality and total appearance. The blade, which is Stainless (don't know what kind though) is not sharpening very well. I tried with my Lansky turn box system, with low results. Any idea or help will be much appreciated. Thank you.

P.S. Do those Lansky rods get dull over time? Or should they be renewed in some way?
 
Low quality steels sometimes are very difficult to get sharp.

Have you sharpened other knives and not had trouble?
 
Even if you do manage to get it sharp, one swipe through cardboard and it will be butterknife dull again.

On the bright side, you'll get lots of sharpening practice. ;)
 
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Gravy said:
There's your problem. Mtech isn't know for using high quality steel...
Click to expand...

Basp2005 said:
Even if you do manage to get it sharp, one swipe through cardboard and it will be butterknife dull again.
Click to expand...

I have an mtech fixed blade that I've used/abused harder than many of my other knives that cost 10 times as much and the steel held up just fine, about the same as 1095 from kabar. And I'm not the only one who has had good experiences with their steel... If someone can't get a knife sharp, questioning the steel quality shouldn't really be the very first thing to do. There are many more important factors to be ruled out before blaming the steel. I've never come across a steel that wouldn't take at least a hair shaving edge...even annealed steel.

It sharpens like any other steel, make sure you reach the apex, form a burr, then knock it off. Those rods don't really wear out and should be just fine. Just keep them clean or they might clog up with steel. Did you see any improvement at all after using the box?
 
I found several different models with the name "ballistic" on MTech's web site. Not sure which one you have. Like many modern "tactical" folders, the Ballistic looks like it's made from thick stock. A blade that starts as thick stock is going to have a harder time cutting through things. They also tend to be sharpened from the factory at very high angles. It's not unusual to find them at 25 degrees per side and I've heard tales of ones at 30 dps!

With a Lansky turnbox system, it sits at a fixed angle. It think that angle is roughly 20 degrees per side. Which means that, when you use the turnbox on your blade that has a 25 dps angle on it, you will not be touching the edge of your blade. Instead you'll be abrading the edge back towards the spine. We're talking a fraction of an inch back from the edge. But it's still behind the edge and won't ever contact that edge (in any reasonable amount of time).

The solution is to use a free hand system of some sort, or a system that has adjustable angles that go large enough to match the factory angles on your blade. Of course I'm just speculating based on what you told me. You can be sure of this by using the Sharpie Technique to see where metal is being removed when you use the turnbox.

The turnbox rods are made of ceramic and are somewhat fine. They abrade steel rather slowly. They may become loaded with metal and should be cleaned with something like comet or (preferably) Bar Keepers Friend. BKF contains oxalic acid, which dissolves steel, which will clean a "loaded up" ceramic rod faster and more completely than just soap and water. As I mentioned, Comet or other powdered cleansers are also a good choice since they are mildly abrasive and will tend to help get that embedded metal out of the ceramic "pores".

I hope this helps a bit.

Brian.
 
I'm not sure if the turn box has a "back bevel" setting but this very well could be your problem. I have had problems sharpening knives of all different qualities before and had to back bevel them. After sharpening it to 30 degrees, then put a 40-degree micro bevel on the knives it was incredibly easy to maintain sharpness. You can also try youtubing J Davis from dull to shaving sharp. It will pull up a method where instead of going from rod to rod (he uses a sharp maker) you stay on one side until the burr forms, then move to the other until another burr forms, then back and forth. Good luck man!
 
If you are sharpening dry, then your sharpening surface is getting clogged with metal. You either have to clean more often or use water/oil to keep the stone from loading up. It happens more with low budget steels.
 
A co-worker has an MTech EMT knife with a partially serrated tanto blade. It is clearly a low-cost, low-quality knife. I am pretty good at sharpening, but I had a heck of a time doing anything with the blade on that one for some reason, and when I did put a functioning edge on the thing it didn't last long. I rarely call a knife "junk" but that one is, without a doubt. What did work best with it was a basic coarse/fine silicon carbide stone.

Regarding the rods on your Lansky- like any other ceramic rods, you need to clean them occasionally with abrasive scouring powder like Comet or Ajax, or in my opinion the best which is Bar Keeper's Friend. Just use water, put the powder in the palm of your hand, and hand-scrub them and rinse off.
 
I didn't read all the replays so forgive if some one said it but for softer steel I find a pretty coarse stone, ~300, and a good reprofile to a shallow thinnish edge does wonders for sharpness AND adds a little longevity to the edge holding. I'm not saying don't refine the edge with finer stones but be sure to go coarse enough to start with.

Yes you said Lansky system. I still say reprofile and thin the edge, on a good sized bench stone, then maybe use the Lansky.
 
Thanks a lot guys.
The MTech is the MT-A875 Ballistic.
Sorry, don't know how to load a picture here.
On the Lansky I went with the 25 degree, of course.
Have a nice week all.
 
Gvard said:
I have an mtech fixed blade that I've used/abused harder than many of my other knives that cost 10 times as much and the steel held up just fine, about the same as 1095 from kabar. And I'm not the only one who has had good experiences with their steel... If someone can't get a knife sharp, questioning the steel quality shouldn't really be the very first thing to do. There are many more important factors to be ruled out before blaming the steel. I've never come across a steel that wouldn't take at least a hair shaving edge...even annealed steel.

It sharpens like any other steel, make sure you reach the apex, form a burr, then knock it off. Those rods don't really wear out and should be just fine. Just keep them clean or they might clog up with steel. Did you see any improvement at all after using the box?
Click to expand...

Sorry my bad, thought he said CRKT.
 
I would recommend any other knife than an mtech. You will be happier and notice that what you think appears to be quality, really isn't. The steel may be really bad but it's possible you just have a burr that you need to remove. Or maybe you are rounding the edge on the strop?
 
I'd suggest coloring the edge with a sharpie and using the turnbox for a bit.
then inspect the edge and see if you are reaching the apex - my guess is that you are not.

if you are not, you have to change the angle
 
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