Carbide edges...

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Oct 12, 2007
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There was a thread here some time back,but i wasn't able to pull it up quickly.I recently ran across a deal on a carbide application machine at the local pawn shop.I have it in layaway and now i'm just trying to gain a little knowledge about the process.It seems to be a desirable addition for a long lasting cutting edge.And also makes titanium a usable blade steel it seems.The machine i have is a Rocklinizer model 500.It was very clean with the manual and im looking forward to getting it out of pawn jail and playing with it.What are you guys opinions on this process and if you can share any tips and tricks and suppliers i would sure appreciate it.
 
Nice score! The Rocklinizer is top notch from what I hear.

I apply the carbide at an angle, your machine may be different than mine so I'd do what the manual says.

You want a very clean knife, I use soap/water, windex, then reverse osmosis water. Wear eye protection. They require a bit of practice but it is not hard to use.


I think you will be very impressed by the outcome, carbide is where it's at! Carbide and Titanium is my go to combo for EDC.

I tested a carbide edge on cardboard and ran out of test material... the edge is very tough and long lasting.


Mike Snody has some great videos of the Rocklinizer in action, check them out.
 
Thanks,I'm excited about trying it out.Do you do only one side or both.I watched one youtube video that said it will make a std. drill bit cut through anything fast!
 
You might try and contact George Lambert with Titan Knife Technologies. He is the most recent guy I know of using this on a regular basis. (there may be more guys I'm not aware of) He makes a great titanium bladed fillet knife with tungsten carbide using the rocklizer. They cut like crazy.
 
Thanks,I'm excited about trying it out.Do you do only one side or both.I watched one youtube video that said it will make a std. drill bit cut through anything fast!

I carbidize one side and sharpen the other. The carbide works very well on a zero bevel.

On knives you should apply carbide then sharpen, my manual says to sharpen first but I think they are talking about drill bits.


I have had a ton of great customer feedback on the carbide/Ti combo. I find most people think it may be a gimmick (I did) but after testing I know it is here to stay! Last year I sold over 100 of my Ti Backpacker model and had nothing but positive feedback.
 
Carbide works on titanium, and on titanium only...

Because of how the carbides are applied, you get very rough surface. A surface that creates a very uneven edge after sharpening.
What it means. It means that this edge will never ever be really sharp.

But on titanium it works like charm. Titanium is soft enough to be worn of while carbides "layer" holds much longer (it doesent work with steel - steel is to hard/wear resistant), therefore knife is sharp long time. Maybe not as sharp as a steel one, but sharp waaaaay longer and better than just titanium.
 
It works on steel also. I don't know about really good perfectly HT steel, but it works on cheap steel. I had George do a $20 Gerber from Wal Mart and a $4 knife my son had and they both got 250 cuts on 3/4" hemp rope and would still cut some. These are both pocket knives with maybe a 3"-3 1/2" blade It is a strange edge though. Won't even think about shaving hair from your arm, but will cut about anything you put the blade on.

The blades I have only have the carbide on one side as the others have mentioned.
 
I've seen youtube videos of guys applying it to all steels.They all say it doesn't slice paper as cleanly or treetop shave,but one guy was shaving arm hair after treating a carbon damascus blade.It's the longevity of the working edge that is the shining point it seems.
 
I can achieve a shaving edge with my carbide edged titanium blades, but it takes a bit of effort compared to a traditional steel knife. Carbide edged titanium knives will not hold a "razor" edge very long, but will maintain a useful "utility" edge for extended periods.
 
The carbide is only a thin surface layer, it does not change the underlying material much. Applied to good steel and cutting mildly abrasive materials, the cutting edge will last longer, although as has been pointed out it won't be as perfectly sharp an edge because the carbide layer is rough. But the edge is still just as susceptible to chipping or rolling as it was before being carbidized. If you carbidize a cheap stainless paring knife and use it to cut steak on a ceramic plate, the edge will dull just as fast as it would before the blade was carbidized.
 
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