How To Carbide Platen Prep

ScarFoot

ScarFoot

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Sep 16, 2021
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For those of you using a carbide platen, how did you prep it before installing? I’m planning to use a diamond stone or file to knock the top edge and corners off since they’re very sharp. Not sure whether to put a slight chamfer on the edges along the sides or not. Also, I assume it would be a good idea to use a diamond bit to scratch up the back before epoxying it on. Any tips for that? I have a diamond dremel bit or two I think would work okay. I figure I’ll put a couple of support screws along the bottom as well.

Anything I’m missing?
 
I got one recently. I took the opportunity to fine-tune my setup. My Northridge grinder has a platen holder with a ledge. That ledge and one of its two screws in particular was protruding just past the platen, actually holding the belt off the platen, so I ground it back and got it seated properly. The platen is secured with double sided tape and sitting on the ledge.
Before installing it I rounded the top edge slightly using a 50 grit diamond stone from my wicked edge set. I just barely ran it over the sides also. I figured I might regret it if I rounded them too much and there's no way back.
The set up is perfect now and was a huge upgrade.
 
Had mine maybe a year or so. One of the best things I've bought, knife making related. Kicks the Crap out of the glass ones!!!

I machined a ledge backing plate for it to mount to with gorilla double sided tape. That stuff is strong.
My platen barely fit vertically. I ground a radius on the top edge. Left the sides sharp.

I was surprised how shiny it was, it looks like a mirror.

Love it.
 
I keep 3M VHB tapes in the shop. VHB stands for Vert High Bond. It makes an instantaneous strong bond that does not require a cure time. The joint is also shock/vibration proof.
They come in thicknesses from 2-mil to 120-mil foam type. They are super for mounting things permanently. I even used 10-mil for attaching handle scales on a fillet knife as an experiment and it never failed.

I find the 15-mil perfect for bonding metal to metal or glass. The 25-mil gray tape is a good for general purpose metal and wood bonds.
The bond is strong from the get-go, and strength actually increases over time.
 
RD_knives said:
3m vhb heat resistant doublesided tape is best way to mount it i found out.
Tried like jb-weld heat resistant epoxy but is less safe.
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What VHB tape is that? Do you happen to remember the number? I’m finding out there’s about 900 different flavors of it.
 
IIRC, it is 4926 ... the gray type.

It isn't cheap but works excellent. I bought a 5-yard roll or 2" tape for $90. That is enough for about 25 platens.
Store it in small airtight containers and keep it in the bottom or the refrigerator. I use my vacuum sealer for food and vac-pack it in a quart size bag.
 
I bought a 2" x 8" section of carbide...tried flattening it with a 120 grit large diamond plate, didn't do much to the low spots! I will mount it to a steel backer and try ceramic belts/surface grinder on it next. If not, I will break down and order a ready made one. I am tired of cracking/chipping my glass platens!
 
ScarFoot said:
What VHB tape is that? Do you happen to remember the number? I’m finding out there’s about 900 different flavors of it.
Click to expand...
I use the 3m Vhb gph-110gf.
And of course i degrease both platen and baseplate.
 
Taz said:
I bought a 2" x 8" section of carbide...tried flattening it with a 120 grit large diamond plate, didn't do much to the low spots! I will mount it to a steel backer and try ceramic belts/surface grinder on it next. If not, I will break down and order a ready made one. I am tired of cracking/chipping my glass platens!
Click to expand...
Thats bad if you bought one that is already flat.. it definitely should be.

All the carbides i sell are perfectly flat. Also i already round of the top and bottom corners of the carbide platen.

If you have like an atome 140 grit diamond stone you should get it flat with some elbow grease.
 
Yeah, I wanted to play with making my own. Its like a mill scale surface, so its fairly flat, but not smooth. One of these days I will order one of yours!
 
ScarFoot said:
For those of you using a carbide platen, how did you prep it before installing? I’m planning to use a diamond stone or file to knock the top edge and corners off since they’re very sharp. Not sure whether to put a slight chamfer on the edges along the sides or not. Also, I assume it would be a good idea to use a diamond bit to scratch up the back before epoxying it on. Any tips for that? I have a diamond dremel bit or two I think would work okay. I figure I’ll put a couple of support screws along the bottom as well.

Anything I’m missing?
Click to expand...
I definitely would not try roughing the back to improve glue adhesion. This isn’t knife scales. There should be no shock or bending that could shear or peel the platen off its backing. I have JB welded glass platens (with a shelf) and not had problems with adhesion, and the tape should be an even tougher bond.

I rounded the long edges of one glass platen. Big mistake. Now useable only for 8”+ knives. Just take the sharpness off, don’t try to round them. You can always go back later if you change your mind and want more round over.
 
C_Claycomb said:
I definitely would not try roughing the back to improve glue adhesion. This isn’t knife scales. There should be no shock or bending that could shear or peel the platen off its backing. I have JB welded glass platens (with a shelf) and not had problems with adhesion, and the tape should be an even tougher bond.

I rounded the long edges of one glass platen. Big mistake. Now useable only for 8”+ knives. Just take the sharpness off, don’t try to round them. You can always go back later if you change your mind and want more round over.
Click to expand...
I decided I’m going the tape route to stick it on. I just don’t see belts surviving the top and bottom corners as is but might try it first. I figure I’ll have to knock the points off of them. I won’t mess with the edges unless absolutely necessary.
 
ScarFoot said:
I decided I’m going the tape route to stick it on. I just don’t see belts surviving the top and bottom corners as is but might try it first. I figure I’ll have to knock the points off of them. I won’t mess with the edges unless absolutely necessary.
Click to expand...
Can you not adjust your platten position so the belt just barely touches the platten?
 
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