Carbidizing the lockbar on a production Ti Frame Lock

EZ Bake

EZ Bake

Joined
Mar 5, 2009
Messages
1,752
So I'm considering having this done to one or more of my production folders (seem to be a lot of folks out there doing it for a reasonable price).

I've searched and read several threads on here about the process and the machine (and how to home-build one), but I have a few questions:

1. Is it worth it? What is the overall affect of having this done - longer lock-bar life (by how much)?

2. Is there an appropriate time to have it done (i.e. after a bit of break-in on a new Ti Frame-Lock)?
 
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I'd like to get the same thing done on my DDR HD Maxx and BM630.
 
seems like a sound idea. i think itd be better to put it on after its seen some use, since after application it will be slightly "more" then it was before, changing slightly the lockup.
 
You didn't ask :D but here's another question and answer:

3. If I have this done, will it affect my warranty?

Probably. If you are concerned about future warranty service, you should definitely contact the manufacturer/maker before having this done.

;)
 
I bought a machine and carbidized all of my liner locks and frame locks at whatever state they were in when I got it.

I can't say I see a difference between ones broken in and ones that aren't. Because it reduces lock bar wear, I'd say sooner is better, and I plan to do them when I first receive them from now on. edit: It does add a few thousandths to the thickness of the lock bar, so perhaps if the lock up was very, very earlier, there would be a problem. That's pretty small, though, so maybe not.

I can say lock up hasn't changed on any I've done it to, and one in particular I've been playing with a lot to see if it would. I should've counted I suppose, but that would take more concentration than I am willing to dedicate to it. An estimate is 500-1000 on one and a few hundred on a few others. I can't see any visual change on the lock bar, either. Each looks the same as when it was first applied.
 
It would seem reasonable to me that it would void your warranty. Unless you are an avid flipper, sitting there watching tv, I doubt whether you'd ever see any difference in lockup. IIRC, Chris Reeve and some of his guys flipped a Reeves knife for 30,000 times and saw no noticeable wear on the lock.
Sonny
 
Well, I'm not too worried about warranty to be honest - if this is something that truly extends the life of the knife overall, then it's worth it to me. The primary knives I'm considering doing this to is my 0551 and possibly my 0561, followed by a Spyderco Techno when I finally get one.

I'm already looking at a few other mods and I'm not too affraid of tinkering and giving up the warranty, but I really don't want to do this if it's not going to gain anything (i.e. is the life of the lock-bar-face really extended?).
 
EZ Bake,

I don't mean to hijack your thread, but I have been looking into this myself and wanted to throw another thought/question into the mix. The carbidizers I've seen apply carbide at 70+ Rockwell hardness. Blades are usually heat treated to about 57 to 64 or 65 max. Rockwell. So, wouldn't applying carbide to the lock face then cause wear of the blade tang? Would it be a good idea to carbidize BOTH the lock face AND the blade tang?

Thanks to all who may share their wisdom with this thread!
 
I always figured it would be prudent to treat both surfaces.

Here is a Reese Weiland Ti fighter. I had it treated by Mitchel Knives.

100_1147.jpg


100_1148.jpg
 
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