Carbon steel blade care

A

ANGRYMOB

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May 26, 2005
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I tried to do a search and came up empty, so what is the besty way to keep your carbon steel blades, specifically O-1, rust free. What to use....oil?? Wax??? How often to apply....etc??
 
A product like Tuff-Cloth or a simple silicone cloth is good, you can also use a light coating of typical gun oil or something fancier like Miltec-1. Frequency of cleaning really depends on where you use the knife and where you live. If the blade is not soaked, you can just wipe the blade off with a silicone/Tuff-Cloth when you put it away after you use it.
 
I personally don't use any of that stuff on my O1...

When I finish using it in the kitchen, I just wash it and rinse it under really hot water. The heated blade will help the water evaporate.

I have only had 1 rust problem and that was because I forgot to take out my O1 blade when playing hockey so it was pretty much in sweat for a few hours. A little Flitz took care of that.
 
I agree that keeping them clean and drying them off is the most important. If you go camping and hunting, whatever protective coating you put on will be rubbed off by whatever you use the blade for. So clean it after and you'll do fine.

I keep a bottle of food grade mineral oil on my kitchen counter. I use fixed blades and a few folders for food prep, rather than standard kitchen knives. Every now and again I'll rub a little on high carbon blades before I sheath them. The inside of the sheaths themselves are probably oil-soaked by now. :)
 
Many people use choji oil for their multi thousand dollar katanas. Mineral oil is basically the same. A $2 bottle will last you for half a year.
 
Marine Tuf-Cloth or simply WD-40 (please note that the latter should not be used on knives with handle slabs that are epoxied on).
 
Depends if you are using the knife for food or not. If you are using it for food, do not use solvents like WD40. Use either mieral oil or any food grade oil, corn, canola, etc.

However, if you are cutting acidic stuff, citrus, rhubarb, etc, then you will stain your o1 blade no matter what kind oil you use.

However, there is a practical difference betwwen staining and rust, though both are oxidization.

Personally I have never been too concerned about minor rusting, as long as the steel on the edge is protected and clean. Thank God some people are though, because I have found some great deals on tools (machetes and such) just because there were a few rust spots on them.

That being said, while I don't mind patina or even a little rust on a Tramontina machete, I would very much mind it on a Wheeler, Fowler, Caffery or similiar bowie.
 
It is near impossible to keep steels like O1 and L6 rust free, they can patina as soon as they are used on some materials, not to mention working around salt water, in the rain, or in a very humid enviroment.

If it is an actual working blade then it is going to discolor and pick up the occasional piece of rust. Can keep it dry and oiled when you can, and wipe it down occasionally with a scotchbrite pad to remove any loose rust.

-Cliff
 
I like the patina, so that is not an issue. My 1095 and CV blades just get wiped down every so often with skin oil- it's free. :)
 
In a drawer of the cabinet where I drop my keys and pocket change and whatever pocket knife I am currently carrying daily, I keep a small plastic container with a lid, that has in it a small 100% cotton cloth that has been liberally sprayed with Rem-Oil. 2-3 times a week, as I am emptying my pockets for the night, I take the cloth out and wipe down the knife and each blade.

It takes only a few seconds and becomes just part of my pocket emptying routine after awhile you will do it without even thinking about it.
 
If you mean the red rust, than everything is said with keeping it clean and dry.

If you don´t want the black oxide, and it is a working knife, i must ask why?

The grey and black oxide helps protecting the blade.

I carry a "rusting" blade in a folder for over a half year and never had any problems. I do less as on stainless, which i count on the grey patina. Meaning i just clean it without using water. Even after contact with fruits i just clean it dry. No rust.

Another nice thing: First cut the sour and the fat after. This will protect your blade enough.

I will never put a dirty or wet knife back into pocket or sheath.
 
I use CLP Lube which you can get at most gun stores. It is not expensive and is what the military uses on their equipment. It "Cleans", "Lubricates", and "Protects".

Also as was mentioned don't leave the knife in a sheath or any other leather case. You can wrap it in shrink wrap and stick it in a zip lock bag and it lasts a long time without rusting. If hunting I dry it carefully, and lube it. Same as with the gun.
 
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