Silicone impregnated cloth carried in the gun cleaning section of box stores sporting goods. It works depending on the situation for a couple of months before it dries up. While it's on the knife it coats the steel with silicone creating a barrier to oxygen. I've never had rust/oxidization while using it. I used to keep one at my table when I worked gunshows to wipe the sweaty fingerprints off and recoat.
Naturally if I got into something really badly corrosive I would wash it off before wiping the knife down to help protect that knifes finish but also to keep any of whatever from being transferred inadvertently to other knives.
When working gun shows I often would re box knives up and not check them for days to weeks so I didn't want any fingerprints in my nice knifes finish. Fingerprints that are sweaty can ruin the finish on a knife or gun ( especially nice hot blue glossy pretty ones

) literally overnight.
For long term storage its a cleaning and a coating or two of Renn wax and no storing in the sheath. Cardboard sleeves, or waxed & treated paper like GEC sends their knives in, and Spyderco wrapped their Super blue knives in. That's first choice, clean, dry, white tissue type paper with several wraps come next.
Corrosion is never a problem for me and I find taking care of knives and firearms relaxing and stress relieving. The only time I ever had a problem was a custom from a maker that used rex 20/M62 in a blade and media blasted it. Someone left a fingerprint on it. The best I could do was get the process stopped, but that was some rusty stuff. White steel from Hitachi can be also but it's very easy to take care of.
Non stainless steels like A2, 3V, Cruwear, CPM M4, M2, etc. I find about as easy as 154cm to keep corrosion free. Perhaps it's just they both fit into the same schedule of cleaning while O-1, W2, White, Blue, etc steels are in another, more intensive ( but not bad, or difficult) category with more checks, more thourough maintenance. Etc.
Joe